Anyone selling quality forged completed lowers?

[antonio97b]

I am shopping for my first AR15. I would like to be budget minded but smart. I am on the look out for a completed quality completed lower so that I don't have to get the buffer tube on (I live in an apartment with no access to a bench vice). Something like 7075 forged.

Then, I would get a budget upper so that I could have the rifle shootable asap. So, as I get more money, be able to swap out the lower quality components for better brands, all the while maintaining the quality forged part.

I've done some looking, and all I can find are non-7075 forged completes offered from Spike or PSA and other various companies (and are sold out at the moment as well), but nothing that quite fits what I'm looking for.

Is anyone aware of something like I am describing and if they are in stock?

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[slimmer13]

You don't need a bench vice to assemble a lower. Pretty easy with basic tools. If it were me, I'd go Aero Precision. They have become my go to company.

 

[antonio97b]

You don't need a bench vice to assemble a lower. Pretty easy with basic tools. If it were me, I'd go Aero Precision. They have become my go to company.

from viewing videos the buffer tube seems like it's going to be quite the chore without something assisting me. Other search results about assembling an AR without a vice seems to point into the "avoid if possible" category.

 

[Boboclown]

from viewing videos the buffer tube seems like it's going to be quite the chore without something assisting me. Other search results about assembling an AR without a vice seems to point into the "avoid if possible" category.

I've assembled a lower without a vice, its not much of a chore compared to with a vice. Just remember to stake your castle nut and you'll be fine.

 

[HB of CJ]

Installing that buffer tube or lower receiver extension tube is easy. You do not need a bench vise. The whole thing can be easily done in your lap. Very easy to do.

For a rifle receiver extension tube, all you need to do is screw on that tube almost tight, then press in on the buffer detent group, then screw home the extension tube.

Use the proper wrench that fits the flat. Just twist tight. Use a dab of blue Loctite. "Lock Tight"

For a CAR type, same thing only just screw in enough to engage the buffer tube detent group. Not too tight. Then tighten the lock ring. (called a castle nut today)

For a CAR you will need that lock nut wrench. Another place to use blue "lock tight". No staking is necessary. Staking is generally bad and to be avoided.

hundreds of builds. uncounted rebuilds.

 

[kato pup dog]

I have assembled 3 lowers and have not used a bench vise once. Very easy to do.

 

[Pandaz3]

I'm with everybody else, no vice for the Lower. I agree also with the Aero Precision recommendation, but I have a Delton, Spikes, several Anderson's, a couple of Bear Creek Arsenal's along with PSA. I have a Billet locally made in Hillsboro (The guy is dead now) I can't badmouth any of them. I do not use Loctite (Probably should) nor do I stake the castle nut. If I were shipping out to war then I would want do that (Probably Staking as it should last better). I have had a castle nut come loose, but I had a small wrench in my range bag. The nut is steel, but the threads are aluminum and so stretching will occur so a retorque is a good plan. Use the gun some then retorque it and stake it after the retorque. I just shoot at paper so if your plans are different, you might want to be more picky.
For accuracy you would be better off spending money on a barrel...then a trigger. Also get a 'Mil-Spec' buffer and tube, the Commercial are so passé
Really you don't need to worry even if you have cheap components, but a good barrel and trigger, you will be okay. Make the next one the supreme one

 

[shredjesse]

I've assembled countless AR lowers without a vice. The vice tends to matter a bit more with the upper when you need to torque the barrel nut down. The lower is notably simpler, with the only torque specification being 35 ft/lbs on the buffer tube nut. That being said, I don't know ANYONE who has ever done theirs to such a specification. Just blue loctite and get it as tight as you can, you're more than fine.

Personally... I'd go with Anderson Manufacturing and spend the savings on quality components that matter, such as the fire control group (trigger). For example the $60 or so you'll save between a $125 spikes and a $65 Anderson (presuming they're still this cheap) will buy you an ALG ACT trigger, which is by far the best bang for the buck on a quality trigger. Most triggers in lower parts kits are a shot in the dark, and I can attest that the cheap kits tend to have miserable trigger pulls, especially Palmetto State Arms.

I've put together a few different grades of lowers, ranging from cheap polymer, to Andreson, to Adams Arms, to Noveske. The differences are minimal. Also if it's your first build you are far more likely to muck something up and scratch up your lower, which can be some expensive scratches!


If the ALG ACT trigger is what you want (and for an affordable yet good quality build it's the best if not only choice) you can get a lower parts kit from ALG for $115~.

Complete AR15/M4 Mil-Spec Lower Parts Kit with ACT Trigger

Then just toss on any old buffer tube and butt stock you want, and you're in business. You can go cheap to expensive on this, they'll all work and leave you perfectly happy. Go standard Carbine length for that adjustable tactical cool setup, or rifle for smoother cycling (less felt recoil = faster follow up shots, popular in 3 gun).

 

[HB of CJ]

No vise needed to install the buffer tube. A good 5 inch expensive smooth jaw bolted on bench vise is needed to build the rest of the lower. Also like already said, also needed to properly install the barrel.

PROPERLY torquing up that pesky stupid OEM barrel nut is the fun part. Time consuming but fun. Again, the CORRECT way is to lock down the barrel and float the upper receiver. Torque to about 40 to 42 pounds.

If that pesky horrible OEM barrel nut does not line up perfectly with the gas tube at 40 pounds, the correct procedure is to remove the barrel and dress off a tiny bit of the upper receiver front flat. Just a little.

Then re torque to 40 to 42 pounds. Dry. No lube. Be sure to calculate the barrel wrench length in the torque value. All fun. No gas key interference with the gas tube is allowed. Off and on until exactly correct.

A certain fun learning and knowledge curve is required to home build your AR15 properly. Also some basic required tools and accessories. The heart of a sweet shooter is the barrel, bolt, sights and trigger group.

If you are running OEM irons and the build does not shoot down the pipe right to left there is a fun cure. Also fun cures for sloppy or over tight take down pins. Lots of cures. All fun. All learn able. All doable.

hundreds of ar builds. uncounted m16 rebuilds.