Any P80 experts out there?

[jeffery2Awae]

So I bought a P80 serialized lower and the trigger isn't resetting. When putting the slide on another lower trigger resets so I don't think it's the upper. I thought at first it was the stock trigger so I replaced with ZEV still same issue, I then thought it was maybe the striker assembly so I replaced that and still same issue. Trigger will reset if I let slide go slowly back into battery or if I rack it quickly but not if I keep my finger with trigger depressed on either method. I think maybe the rails on the lower are too high? At this point I'm stumped and spent an extra $150 to get it working and I'm still not knowing what's going on. I can send you a video if you'd like! Thanks!

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[TTSX]

Did you forget the rear pin that holds the rear rail section to the grip? Also holds the trigger housing in place

 

[Wookie1]

I've had 2 that I had to adjust the part of the trigger bar that actually catches the striker and holds it back (pictured below) if you really pay attention you can sometimes see it fail to catch. One was very much like you describe if you let the slide forward slow it reset but if you just dropped it, it wouldn't reset.

 

[arrowshooter]

I've had 2 that I had to adjust the part of the trigger bar that actually catches the striker and holds it back (pictured below) if you really pay attention you can sometimes see it fail to catch. One was very much like you describe if you let the slide forward slow it reset but if you just dropped it, it wouldn't reset.

View attachment 1412726

There are a few vids on YouTube that explain this adjustment.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

When I saw title made me think of this ha ha.

 

[TTSX]

If you don't have one of these orange covers, I suggest you get one. It allows full visual inspection of the inner workings so you can diagnose your issue a little easier.

 

[Saladfarmer]

patriotgunbuilders.com

 

[titsonritz]

If you don't have one of these orange covers, I suggest you get one. It allows full visual inspection of the inner workings so you can diagnose your issue a little easier.

View attachment 1412853

No thank, the orange also attracts the eye to a useless place, which is why I only use black rear sights these days. If replacing the Glock back plate I'd recommend the SCD.

 

[TTSX]

No thank, the orange also attracts the eye to a useless place, which is why I only use black rear sights these days. If replacing the Glock back plate I'd recommend the SCD.

Not for shooting, for repairing. Can't say I've ever spent time looking at the wrong thing because of the color.

Also, what you linked is $80 for a $10 part.

OP could just Dremel off a chunk of an OE plate if he's feeling bubba

 

[DirectDrive]

I wouldn't start bending on the cruciform (end of trigger bar) as a 1st thing to do.
Especially if it's a genuine Glock part. They are usually well made.

Make sure that you have a stock OEM genuine Glock 5lb trigger spring installed.
Not the aftermarket 6lb.
Make sure that you have a stock OEM genuine Glock 5.5lb striker spring installed.
Not a lower power aftermarket spring.
I would also be using a genuine Glock RSA for this troubleshoot.

 

[titsonritz]

Not for shooting, for repairing. Can't say I've ever spent time looking at the wrong thing because of the color.

Gotcha.

Also, what you linked is $80 for a $10 part.

Look at it again, that is not an accurate description.

OP could just Dremel off a chunk of an OE plate if he's feeling bubba

I'd probably do that before paying for one.

 

[TTSX]

Look at it again, that is not an accurate description.

I see, now. We had a small miscommunication.

 

[interczeptor]

Make sure you're only using Glock OEM parts throughout including the trigger until you figure out the problem.
I second the inspection cover plate, without it's nearly impossible to see what's happening under the hood.

 

[Koda]

Never bend the cruciform
It needs to have at least 80% engagement with the firing pin sear, you need the orange inspection cover plate to check engagement.
Do the rails on the rear rail module sit flush with the block on the frame? If not thats an issue....

 

[DirectDrive]

Cruciform

 

[Koda]

Cruciform

Thank you
Updated

 

[Koda]

I think maybe the rails on the lower are too high?

The top of the rails should sit flush with the mating part on the frame.

 

[DirectDrive]

The top of the rails should sit flush with the mating part on the frame.
Do the rails on the rear rail module sit flush with the block on the frame? If not thats an issue....

Sitting flush ?
Do you mean that the two rail systems (RRM and LBRS) should be checked for parallel ?

RRM = rear rail module
LBRS = locking block rail system

 

[Koda]

The top of the rails should sit flush with the mating part on the frame.
Do the rails on the rear rail module sit flush with the block on the frame? If not thats an issue....

Sitting flush ?
Do you mean that the two rail systems (RRM and LBRS) should be checked for parallel ?

RRM = rear rail module
LBRS = locking block rail system

In my experience, yes.

Although rereading the post this should not be an issue with the serialized frames.
I would still check though.

 

[Yarome]

If you don't have one of these orange covers, I suggest you get one. It allows full visual inspection of the inner workings so you can diagnose your issue a little easier.

View attachment 1412853

Some of the most useful tips are stupid easy. I dunno why I never thought of cutting a spare backplate down for diagnostics. That woulda sure made life easier a time or two.

Thanks!!