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My primers fall out after the first reloading so uh..
lol
lol
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My primers fall out after the first reloading so uh..
lol
I've always heard that pin tumbling can peen harden brass.. good work.I've had issues recently with split necks on ammo that's sat for a while, ever since I started wet tumbling. I know a lot of folks say that stainless pin tumbling cannot make your brass brittle, I'm starting to wonder. I've had it happen on several calibers in recent times, where it wasn't a problem before.
Either way, I've decided that all bottleneck brass that I load, that has a chance of sitting a while before shooting, will get annealed before loading. It's pretty quick and easy, much easier than breaking down 1,000 rounds because half of them have split necks.
I do it the low-tech way. I look at those nice machines and would love to have one, but just can't justify the expense. If you develop a good eye and perfect timing, you can very effectively anneal with nothing but a propane torch. I just set up the torch in fairly low light, set the flame just where I want it, and spin the brass between my thumb and finger with the neck and shoulder in the flame. I watch for the color to change to just below the neck, but before it starts to glow, then drop the brass into a bucket of water. I don't think the water is really necessary, just makes it easier.
With lots of practice you can get really good. Some people say that you can't properly anneal without a machine, but I disagree. With lots of practice you can get excellent timing and consistency. It goes really fast too. I just did a whole bucket full of .223 brass yesterday; didn't take me long at all. About halfway through I was getting bored and tired of it, wishing I had an automatic machine, but from watching the videos of the machines, I really don't think I'm very much slower at all.
View attachment 674391
View attachment 674391
I've had issues recently with split necks on ammo that's sat for a while, ever since I started wet tumbling. I know a lot of folks say that stainless pin tumbling cannot make your brass brittle, I'm starting to wonder. I've had it happen on several calibers in recent times, where it wasn't a problem before.
Either way, I've decided that all bottleneck brass that I load, that has a chance of sitting a while before shooting, will get annealed before loading. It's pretty quick and easy, much easier than breaking down 1,000 rounds because half of them have split necks.
I do it the low-tech way. I look at those nice machines and would love to have one, but just can't justify the expense. If you develop a good eye and perfect timing, you can very effectively anneal with nothing but a propane torch. I just set up the torch in fairly low light, set the flame just where I want it, and spin the brass between my thumb and finger with the neck and shoulder in the flame. I watch for the color to change to just below the neck, but before it starts to glow, then drop the brass into a bucket of water. I don't think the water is really necessary, just makes it easier.
With lots of practice you can get really good. Some people say that you can't properly anneal without a machine, but I disagree. With lots of practice you can get excellent timing and consistency. It goes really fast too. I just did a whole bucket full of .223 brass yesterday; didn't take me long at all. About halfway through I was getting bored and tired of it, wishing I had an automatic machine, but from watching the videos of the machines, I really don't think I'm very much slower at all.
View attachment 674391
I've had issues recently with split necks on ammo that's sat for a while, ever since I started wet tumbling. I know a lot of folks say that stainless pin tumbling cannot make your brass brittle, I'm starting to wonder. I've had it happen on several calibers in recent times, where it wasn't a problem before.
Either way, I've decided that all bottleneck brass that I load, that has a chance of sitting a while before shooting, will get annealed before loading. It's pretty quick and easy, much easier than breaking down 1,000 rounds because half of them have split necks.
I do it the low-tech way. I look at those nice machines and would love to have one, but just can't justify the expense. If you develop a good eye and perfect timing, you can very effectively anneal with nothing but a propane torch. I just set up the torch in fairly low light, set the flame just where I want it, and spin the brass between my thumb and finger with the neck and shoulder in the flame. I watch for the color to change to just below the neck, but before it starts to glow, then drop the brass into a bucket of water. I don't think the water is really necessary, just makes it easier.
With lots of practice you can get really good. Some people say that you can't properly anneal without a machine, but I disagree. With lots of practice you can get excellent timing and consistency. It goes really fast too. I just did a whole bucket full of .223 brass yesterday; didn't take me long at all. About halfway through I was getting bored and tired of it, wishing I had an automatic machine, but from watching the videos of the machines, I really don't think I'm very much slower at all.
View attachment 674391
That Anealeze machine is looking better and better.