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I recently was given this BP Revolver and I have put it together, I realized I need some parts for it.I need all the parts except the barrel in the 3rd pic. Does any one know where I can get one for decent price. My Budget is about 150 to get all the parts I need. Don't really want to spend more than that as it's just a shooter and really beat up.. Here's some more information on it. I wen to the colt website and entered the serial number and it comes up as an 1851 Navy .36 caliber that was made in 1861. All Numbers match and on the left side of the frame it says Colts Patent. It's a bit beat up and I can tell the cylinder has been ground up for some reason on the outside of it. Not sure why. Hence why I want to get another one for it. Not sure if it was the original one or an aftermarket that someone ground down. On the top of the barrel it says Address Sam L Colt New York New York America. You can see in the pics what I am talking about. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.

1861 Navy .36 cal 2.jpg 1861 Navy .36 cal 3.jpg 1861 Navy .36 cal 4.jpg 1861 Navy .36 cal 6.jpg 1861 Navy .36 cal.jpg
 
Nice Revovler .
I changed the title to 1851 Navy...since , even though it was made in 1861...it is still a 1851 Navy.
And...there is a 1861 Model Navy...but some parts are not interchangeable with the Model 1851.

The original cylinder was probably buffed so to speak to clean it up from black powder corrosion...hence the "ground up" appearence.
A "new" old stock barrel may be difficult to find...and replica barrels may not fit...since they are metric and often not quite sized the same as originals in any case.....
Andy
 
Oops...read that wrong...you are wanting a cylinder....not a barrel...sorry.
What is wrong with the cylinder...it looks like it would work....
New made replica cylinders are a hit or miss....again...most are not sized the same as the originals they are trying to copy....
Andy
 
Nice Revovler .
I changed the title to 1851 Navy...since , even though it was made in 1861...it is still a 1851 Navy.
And...there is a 1861 Model Navy...but some parts are not interchangeable with the Model 1851.

The original cylinder was probably buffed so to speak to clean it up from black powder corrosion...hence the "ground up" appearence.
A "new" old stock barrel may be difficult to find...and replica barrels may not fit...since they are metric and often not quite sized the same as originals in any case.....
Andy
Thank you for changing that. I thought I had before I posted it. I'm really not looking for a barrel. Just the other parts in the 3rd pic. The barrel is actually is in decent condition. I can see the lands and groves really well with very limited pitting. They still have somewhat crisp edges for it's age. There is some. But not really bad to where I wouldn't shoot it. Unlike the cylinder which has a lot of pitting in it and 2 of the nipples are worn down really bad. I doubt I could get them out with a nipple wrench. As for the other parts, well thew trigger is broken where the hand goes in it. It's missing the edge where the sear(i think that's what one of the parts is called) sits to make it full cocked. Trigger is broken at the top and is missing a small chunk of metal so I know it's not engaging properly. As far as the spring part I feel if I am replacing the other parts might as well do that one also. The sear is just worn out and is missing a small piece on one of the legs (for lack of a better word) that engages the hammer. SO I feel it's best to replace them all.
 
The internal parts like the cylinder hand and spring....etc...can usually be replaced with replica parts..with a little bit of fitting...
I usually order two of the parts to account for shaving too much off or having a re-shaping oops moment.
Andy
 
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Oops...read that wrong...you are wanting a cylinder....not a barrel...sorry.
What is wrong with the cylinder...it looks like it would work....
New made replica cylinders are a hit or miss....again...most are not sized the same as the originals they are trying to copy....
Andy
The ridges on the back of the cylinder are worn really bad and it doesn't rotate well when the hand engages it. They are rounded instead of sharp like I see on new ones.
 
Thank you for changing that. I thought I had before I posted it. I'm really not looking for a barrel. Just the other parts in the 3rd pic. The barrel is actually is in decent condition. I can see the lands and groves really well with very limited pitting. They still have somewhat crisp edges for it's age. There is some. But not really bad to where I wouldn't shoot it. Unlike the cylinder which has a lot of pitting in it and 2 of the nipples are worn down really bad. I doubt I could get them out with a nipple wrench. As for the other parts, well thew trigger is broken where the hand goes in it. It's missing the edge where the sear(i think that's what one of the parts is called) sits to make it full cocked. Trigger is broken at the top and is missing a small chunk of metal so I know it's not engaging properly. As far as the spring part I feel if I am replacing the other parts might as well do that one also. The sear is just worn out and is missing a small piece on one of the legs (for lack of a better word) that engages the hammer. SO I feel it's best to replace them all.
You are welcome....
The internals are easily replaced...I have done so many , many times on both replicas and originals.
Just as I noted above .some fitting will be needed...best to order two of each....luckily those parts ain't expensive.

The cylinder...KROIL will be your friend for the stuck nipples....
I'd try and use the original cylinder , if it was my gun
Andy
 
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I have been cleaning the heck out of it. On one of the holes where the powder and ball goes in you can see that it has been dented in a bit and it has a small crack in the metal and you can tell that it makes the cylinder hole smaller because of it. I just feel it's safer to replace it. I'm really not to worried about keeping it original. I mean it looks like someone used it as a hammer several times. I just want to turn it into a safe shooter.
 
Well since the originals had iron cylinders...a crack...ain't too surprising.
With replicas....some are a better fit than others for replacing parts on original guns , in my experience.

Maybe a trip to The Gun Works in Springfield....where you might be able to fit the replacement cylinder to the arbor / frame to see if that would work...
Andy
 
A thought here.....
Maybe try a used cylinder from a cheaper replica...one that has no cylinder engraving....
Then you could remove the bluing from the cylinder and "antique" it to match the finish on your original gun.
Andy
 
A thought here.....
Maybe try a used cylinder from a cheaper replica...one that has no cylinder engraving....
Then you could remove the bluing from the cylinder and "antique" it to match the finish on your original gun.
Andy
I thought about that. But, I'm no expert when it comes to "antiquing". I know people will want me to make it all look original and do the what's right for the Ol' girl. But first things first. I want it to become a shooter. Once I feel safe shooting it. Then I'll look into making it look all the same. I'm about function over looks right now. I just need to know where I can get the parts I need as I'm just confused when it comes to firearms like this.
 
Thank you. I'll head over there now.
 
I thought about that. But, I'm no expert when it comes to "antiquing". I know people will want me to make it all look original and do the what's right for the Ol' girl. But first things first. I want it to become a shooter. Once I feel safe shooting it. Then I'll look into making it look all the same. I'm about function over looks right now. I just need to know where I can get the parts I need as I'm just confused when it comes to firearms like this.
Antiquing a cylinder like the one I suggested is easy....
Remove the bluing....using a blue remover....then rub it down with a cloud blue paste.....then lightly buff it down with ....
Or after Removing the bluing....spray down the cylinder with bleach. , be sure to not get any bleach in the chambers..and wipe it down completely to remove the bleach...after you get the look you like...
then hit it with cold blue.....

While I own a few antique muzzle loaders.. and do indeed shoot some from time to time....
If you want to shoot a lot....getting a replica cap and ball revolver is your best bet.

With that said...
I have no issue with replacing the internals or cylinder on original cap and ball revolvers...and have done so....
Just gotta be smart about it..and it is a case by case basis for sure.

Dixie Gun Works is also a good place to get what you need....as well as The Gun Works from Springfield OR.
Again...most , if not all the parts will require minor fitting.
Andy
 
Clean it up as best you can, reassemble it, mount on some green felt in a nice picture frame and hand it on the wall your in your den. :)
Maybe backed with a poker hand of, "Aces and Eights".

Please don't attempt to shoot it. :eek:
 
Clean it up as best you can, reassemble it, mount on some green felt in a nice picture frame and hand it on the wall your in your den. :)
Maybe backed with a poker hand of, "Aces and Eights".

Please don't attempt to shoot it. :eek:
I might mount it and just admire it. I don't see why I won't be able to shoot it. The barrel is in really nice condition on the inside. Just some miner surface rust on the outside. Bore is semi shiny looks a lot better once I spent sometime cleaning the handgun. Why do you say not shoot it. Is it because of it's age or because you think there might be more problems I don't see? I had a chance to talk to the guy I got it from and he says he was shooting it about 4 years ago and and realized the hammer was broken. He took it apart and then forgot about it because of other projects on his bench.
 
It has been my experience that by the time I have gotten a piece like yours into a safe and shoot-able condition, I might as well have invested in a good, used modern reproduction. :(
 

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