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Normally I don't bother to paint magazines and if color is important I just buy them that way. However, I'm branching into 300 BO and want to make darned sure those mags are easily and visibly different than those used for 5.56. My interest in 300 BO is subsonic, so I went with the special PMAGS with followers and a few other tweaks to make them work better with the heavier bullets used in subsonic loads. They do have a slightly different texture and feel by design, but it isn't enough to be fool proof and they only come in black.

I've decided the safest way to proceed to to paint them to a color ONLY used for those mags. In this case it will be a green or a green/brown combo.

Reading various threads I've seen several ways to do this, but I want to make sure that what I use will stand up to use and not have to be reapplied every year or so. While I treat my firearms with respect they are tools and get used. Magazines might wind up getting repeatedly dropped during changes when training, for example.

Options are:
  • C-Series (air dry) Cerakote: It can be applied using equipment I already have. It's more expensive, but worth it to me if the scratch resistance and adhesion to the polymer plastic is effective
  • Brownell's Alumahyde II: Specialized paint for firearms and has a reputation for durability.
  • Duracoat: Also a great reputation and a bit on the spendy side. I do have the necessary equipment for the two part product and of course there is the pressurized "ready to go" version.
  • Kryon, Rustoleum, etc..: Inexpensive and available everywhere. Not sure if it will hold up well.
  • Wheel paint: Pretty tough as it must be for it's intended application. Not sure if it's available in matt finishes.
I'd like to know what you have used and how well does it hold up? Also, is there a technique I have missed that could meet my needs?
For painting plastic, thou seeketh this…. It actually slightly etches itself into the surface of plastic. I've used it on many a project with awesome results and long term durability.


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I'm not sure if magpul makes the sand colored 300 blackout mags. If they do, I recommend Rit Dye. It penetrates the plastic and lasts, essentially, forever.

I've done bright blue for a blank only mag, and if you have a hot glue gun, you can get a little creative. The glue blocks the dyeing process and though a pain in the rear to peel off, makes for cool designs if you want to take the time.

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Is that how you clean your bathroom?

Lysol grenade?
 
Automotive paint pen and fill in a couple of the squares on either side of a pmag. Cheap, fast, easy, durable enough for whatever you're gonna do with it. Not aesthetically pleasing but how vain are you about a magazine?
 
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All this talk about painting guns reminds me I got a rifle that I've been neglecting to paint. Thanks for the motivation y'all.

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Automotive paint pen and fill in a couple of the squares on either side of a pmag. Cheap, fast, easy, durable enough for whatever you're gonna do with it. Not aesthetically pleasing but how vain are you about a magazine?
I'm not sure if it qualifies as vanity if the OP has a specific Camo/color scheme they are trying to match. After all, a magazine is just as much a part of the firearm as any other component.

If I were trying to maximize concealment here in the Pacific Northwest, for example, I know I wouldn't want to be running around with a Stormtrooper White paint job on any part of my firearm. I don't think that would be categorized as vain.

With respect to the OPs question: I have painted a few of my hunting rifles using a few coats of Krylon, topped with a light clear-coat/sealant. After 2 years of beating through the brush and copious amounts of exposure to moisture/abrasion, the paint has held up much better than I expected. No flaking or peeling, just a few spots where some paint seems to have "rubbed" off a little (mostly those areas that are handled the most).
 
Originally I was going to just run FDE mags for 300 bo and black mags for 556. But then I was only able to get some of the magpul 300 bo specific ones in black so that plan went out the window. Also lancer didn't have the 300 bo in fde if I recall correctly. So I just went ahead and got a couple packs of these rubber band markers off Amazon. Work great so far.
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Originally I was going to just run FDE mags for 300 bo and black mags for 556. But then I was only able to get some of the magpul 300 bo specific ones in black so that plan went out the window. Also lancer didn't have the 300 bo in fde if I recall correctly. So I just went ahead and got a couple packs of these rubber band markers off Amazon. Work great so far.
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Those are the rubber bands that I suggest… downside is if it's the middle of the night and you have them on different caliber mags! o_O:D
 
And so there's no confusion about them making 300BO FDE Lancer Mags! Or the rubber bands… you can raise or lower them on your mags!
I been running 300BO since before it was coined 300BO and I'm still learning about the cartridge and how effective it is and at what distance based on grain weight and powders. Far from an expert by any means.
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Oh yeah there's also smoke! And the best part is that you can swap the base of them with a different color if you want!!! :s0001::D
 
I've never had any problem with Brownells Alumahyde, just clean it really well, paint it and bake it in the oven for a couple hours. The stuff stands up pretty well too abuse.


 
Normally I don't bother to paint magazines and if color is important I just buy them that way. However, I'm branching into 300 BO and want to make darned sure those mags are easily and visibly different than those used for 5.56. My interest in 300 BO is subsonic, so I went with the special PMAGS with followers and a few other tweaks to make them work better with the heavier bullets used in subsonic loads. They do have a slightly different texture and feel by design, but it isn't enough to be fool proof and they only come in black.

I've decided the safest way to proceed to to paint them to a color ONLY used for those mags. In this case it will be a green or a green/brown combo.

Reading various threads I've seen several ways to do this, but I want to make sure that what I use will stand up to use and not have to be reapplied every year or so. While I treat my firearms with respect they are tools and get used. Magazines might wind up getting repeatedly dropped during changes when training, for example.

Options are:
  • C-Series (air dry) Cerakote: It can be applied using equipment I already have. It's more expensive, but worth it to me if the scratch resistance and adhesion to the polymer plastic is effective
  • Brownell's Alumahyde II: Specialized paint for firearms and has a reputation for durability.
  • Duracoat: Also a great reputation and a bit on the spendy side. I do have the necessary equipment for the two part product and of course there is the pressurized "ready to go" version.
  • Kryon, Rustoleum, etc..: Inexpensive and available everywhere. Not sure if it will hold up well.
  • Wheel paint: Pretty tough as it must be for it's intended application. Not sure if it's available in matt finishes.
I'd like to know what you have used and how well does it hold up? Also, is there a technique I have missed that could meet my needs?
I would just use Hexmag grip tape or another grip tape. That way you can have contrasting color and unique texture for handling in the dark (u can put in any width or orientation you want) for that caliber. Also easy to apply no painting etc. I would avoid cats tongue tape, that crap comes off way too easily. The hexmag tape or other regular grip tapes work great.
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Painted plastic looks great until you start to use it.
It will scrape and chip if that's an issue.

Convert to Lancer Translucent for your 300BLK
(and don'r delay, you could have a mag ban coming to OR)
 
Painted plastic looks great until you start to use it.
It will scrape and chip if that's an issue.

Convert to Lancer Translucent for your 300BLK
(and don'r delay, you could have a mag ban coming to OR)
I'm putting ranger plates on them and it makes it blatant which are which. Never used them before, but with a couple on aren't as gimmicky as I thought they would be. For this purpose they are OK.

Also have a dozen mags, so I'm pretty well stocked up, but might get a few more just in case.

I've never really warmed up to Lancer's even though many swear by them. I read reposts where they were used in sandy environments under harsh conditions that sand would get between the metal and plastic and cause issues. Also a bent metal feed lip on an inexpensive GI mag, but a bent lip on a $20+ mag is a wee bit different. Still, had I known they had a 300 BO specific mag I might have gone that way and my still get some.
 
I'm putting ranger plates on them and it makes it blatant which are which. Never used them before, but with a couple on aren't as gimmicky as I thought they would be. For this purpose they are OK.

Also have a dozen mags, so I'm pretty well stocked up, but might get a few more just in case.

I've never really warmed up to Lancer's even though many swear by them. I read reposts where they were used in sandy environments under harsh conditions that sand would get between the metal and plastic and cause issues. Also a bent metal feed lip on an inexpensive GI mag, but a bent lip on a $20+ mag is a wee bit different. Still, had I known they had a 300 BO specific mag I might have gone that way and my still get some.
Botach is the cheapest place to get Lancer but they don't have 300BLK version
Battlehawk is probably lowest price at $14.80 for Lancer 300BLK

I have purchased from both with good results.
 

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