Which red loctite for front sight screw?

[Dark Trainer]

I bought a new front sight fiber optic for my glock, I used blue loctite and after about a hundred rounds the sight came loose due to heat and movement.

I read that I should use red loctite instead, but there's four different versions of that loctite? Does anyone know the difference in which one is the lightest red loctite, so that if I ever needed to actually remove it I could just put 100 rounds through it and heat it up again?

Loctite 262, Loctite 268, Loctite 271??? Others?

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[thorborg]

• Red: High strength, permanent adhesion
  • Select for high vibration applications where the components don't need to be disassembled in the future.
• Green: High strength wicking, permanent adhesion
  • Select for high vibration applications for preassembled fasteners that don't need to be disassembled in the future.
• Blue: Medium strength, removable with torque
  • Select to ensure components don't come loose in the application and there is a possibility of disassembling the components in the future.
• Purple: Low strength, easily removable
  • Select for non-crucial applications and if disassemble of the components in the future is a known possibility.
  • All come in a red bottle with a color code strip on the front.

 

[DirectDrive]

I've only used blue on that screw.
You may have had oil on the screw which would break the bond.

Dawson uses 242 (blue) for the front sight screws or set screws that need to be serviceable.

Dawson uses 262 (red) for rear sight dovetails.

As one of the largest manufacturers of pistol sights, I consider Dawson to be an authority on the subject.

 

[huntpotter]

Use blue. And make sure the threads are clean and dry. You might want to remove it some day. And blue is enough for that tiny screw. In my experience.

 

[Joe13]

Yea, using red will likely strip the screw if you ever try to remove it. Red is meant to be permanent in my experience.

 

[orygun]

271.
It has the highest resistance to movement, but once broken free will not offer much resistance. The only time I've seen a problem with removing a stud installed with 271 is when it's screwed into cast aluminum, such as a carb stud into an aluminum intake manifold. (Why someone thought those studs needed any loctite is beyond me)
It also has probably the best resistance to heat, which would be a concern on a barrel.
You (OP) saw what happens when blue (242) is used in that instance. Normally blue offers resistance to removal even after being broken free, but it's not very resistant to heat.

 

[TNThomas]

Yup, clean screw and blue.

 

[dinky450]

Permatex® High Strength Removable Threadlocker Orange Gel, 5 G - Permatex

www.permatex.com

 

[monks]

Use alcohol to clean everything before using loctite. I won't use red on anything that will ever need to be removed without a torch.

 

[msgriff]

Loctite 2422, but it probably wouldn't be worth it to most people due to the cost. It's medium strength ("blue") so it can be removed with just hand tools, but it has the same temp rating (650 F) as "red" Loctite.

 

[spookshack]

A soldering iron works great for removing red Loctite on small screws, etc. Just place the tip of the iron on the head of the screw for a few seconds and you're good to go.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

The best thread locker is talking about politics or religion.

Anyway this loctite properties chart may help?

https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-selector-guide-threadlocker-properties-chart.pdf

 

[9milli]

For my Glock 23 I cleaned the threads, applied Loctite Blue, used torque limiter, and waited 48 hours for the Loctite to cure. I haven't had issues in years doing this.

 

[TNThomas]

Personally I am a fan of the tac-weld. Just one little zap on top and you are set. Good for up to 2,500 deg F or so. If you need new sights in the future just zap them on top. Or grind off the weld and pray your threads will loosen up.