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Really there's nothing wrong with it. Just better options in regards to quality. But for trigger time? There's a reason I shoot my wasr more often, 7.62x39 steel cased ammo is almost dirt cheap and when the barrel finally does go out I'll probably be in my 40s and can just buy more AKs. :rolleyes:

It being very dirty is just something to keep an eye on. Also, sticking to lacquer instead of polymer coating so you won't have to worry about it rusting (I've had some surface rust on polymer coated steel ammo, and that was the last of that!).
 
I guess I'll be the odd man out.

Commie ammo is commie ammo. Tula, Wolf, Brown Bear, Golden Bear, Silver Bear, Red Army Standard...In my book, it's all the same stuff, and I truly find little to no difference between any of it. Might be some differences between lacquer, polymer or zinc coated cases, but if you're not purposely trying to abuse your rifle, you'll likely never know the difference.

Go out and blast a bunch, then come home and clean your rifle once in a while. Then start the cycle all over again.

But if ya really are serious about any of it, don't shoot any of this rooshkie crap.:cool:

WAYNO.
 
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I guess I'll be the odd man out.

Commie ammo is commie ammo. Tula, Wolf, Brown Bear, Golden Bear, Silver Bear, Red Army Standard...In my book, it's all the same stuff, and I truly find little to no difference between any of it. Might be some differences between lacquer, polymer or zinc cases, but if you're not purposely trying to abuse your rifle, you'll likely never know the difference.

Go out and shoot a bunch, then come home and clean your rifle once in a while. Then start the cycle all over again.

WAYNO.
Difference is in consistency and quality... Tula is awful, and generally stuff in Barnaul is better. These days anyways. Lacquer vs polymer though, is a real difference even if all else were the same. Polymer coating is for preventing rust, the lacquer coating is better for that.
 
Oh please.

All of you guys will be begging for any and all the 556/.223 you can get your hands on after the SHTF.

As a 5.45 mm M4 shooter, at one time all I had was the corrosive 7N6 stuff. Just had to keep my my iron muzzle break cleaned and oiled. Imagine that in an AR-platform!
 
Haven't had any issues firing it from my AR. Not preferred but on a budget it won't break the gun, just make sure its non corrosive.

From my 40 and 45 it does just fine, i actually prefer it for in 40 since it seems to be more accurate than the brass stuff and makes a different sound when firing instead of a bang. My Shield 45 had no issues with it either. Yes it is dirty so you'll have to clean more but if you are the type to keep up after each range trip its no biggy.
 
Your extractor will thank you later for NOT running it in your AR. It's non-corrosive so I don't see how the barrel was messed up. But it's dirty and the steel cases aren't made to tight tolerances.

My son ran fewer than 100 rounds of Tula through his new Anderson when we noticed the extractor had developed a crack. We discovered that right after having to punch a stuck case out of the barrel for the third time. We ran a snake through the bore after the first two times, thinking it was dirty-running ammo mucking things up. And we hadn't let the cases sit long enough to expand (as Boboclown suggested); they just didn't extract since the bolt didn't move after the shots went downrange.
 
Ive shot plenty of Wolf and Tula poly-coat steel case stuff....

NEVER had an issue with it.

Accuracy within 100m is on par with Fed XM193 too...

Last time I went out I was ringing an 8" plate at 100m with my 10.5" pistol.


Just for casual shooting of course, for competition or survival mode I would choose something else. But again, no problems with it.
 

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