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So I've got 4 relatively cheapo "mil-spec" triggers; and 0 WMLs.. I've been considering getting one WML for at least the SBR, but been looking at triggers too .. which would make more sense first? Better triggers; what do you recommend under $150? I'm looking at the ALG QMS ones and also at Rock River Arms National Match two stage...

Weapon lights...tempted to get an old Insight M3X LED just for that GWOT era silliness :s0140: but I know that there are brighter lights, which ones? Avoiding Olight... Not sure I wanna spend the coin on new Surefires though I know they're basically the standard... And not sure I wanna risk getting a shoddily made Streamlight (current ones seem to be 50/50 quality, per reports?) also not sure I can justify the coin for vintage Surefire lights, because of cloners
 
I've had good luck with Inforce WML on my shotguns....

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I've had good experience with the RA Rave 140. YMMV.

 
So I've got 4 relatively cheapo "mil-spec" triggers; and 0 WMLs.. I've been considering getting one WML for at least the SBR, but been looking at triggers too .. which would make more sense first? Better triggers; what do you recommend under $150? I'm looking at the ALG QMS ones and also at Rock River Arms National Match two stage...
For the money the QMS trigger is a great option on a new budget build, but a marginal upgrade on a current build.
I have 1 ALG QMS trigger and its very worth the price but if your only comparison is with cheapo mil-spec triggers consider the QMS is exactly a milspec trigger except its sear engagement surfaces has been precision honed for a nice crisp break. Mine breaks at an even 6lbs but its a nice clean break.
You could probably polish your cheapo mil-spec trigger sear for the same result, if you screw one up the QMS is only $70 bucks. Now if you have a budget of $150 for a new trigger then get something better than the QMS, the QMS is still a milspec trigger just a nicer break.

As far as a WML, if thats important to you then get that first since you dont have one, then save up for a new trigger later.
 
You could probably polish your cheapo mil-spec trigger sear for the same result, if you screw one up the QMS is only $70 bucks. Now if you have a budget of $150 for a new trigger then get something better than the QMS, the QMS is still a milspec trigger just a nicer break.
That's why I've been looking at the RRA NM two stage trigger group.. though I've read good things of Timney and Giessele
 
That's why I've been looking at the RRA NM two stage trigger group.. though I've read good things of Timney and Giessele
I have 3 ARs. One is the QMS and the other two have ALG ACT triggers which are nice... but they are all essentially the same milspec triggers but the ACT triggers break even lighter. The ACT triggers break at 4lbs but are not adjustable other than changing the coil spring inside.
On my bolt rifle I put in a high end Triggertech trigger and saw an instant improvement in group size when I turned its pull weight way down... i think to 3 or 2lbs (I think its range is 4.5 to 1lbs) so Ive been wondering if I tried a much nicer trigger on my ARs if I could improve their groups sizes. IMO Id much rather have a nicer trigger than a wml, but Id still save for a wml. Im in the same boat as you and Im also on a budget, for now I have one of these Fenix light mounts with a spare handheld I already have.
Either one of these works great and is only $20.


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These Larue triggers are widely considered one of the best options on the market at any price. They used to be $80, which is what I bought mine for. At $115, they are still a great deal.


I have a Streamlight Protac HL that has moved from various rifles and shotguns. It's been one of those "meaning to upgrade" things for about a decade now, but just doesn't quit. Right now it's mounted on my Ruger SFAR 308. It lights up coyotes at 100-ish yards easily.
 
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So the real question here is use case. Is this going to be something you would conceivably use in a defensive situation? 100% get the light, as you may actually need it. A good trigger is nice, but I don't think any has ever actually needed a match trigger for across the room distances. Mill spec will work just fine when the chips are down. (If you are taking a shot where a super nice trigger would actually make a difference, then it probably isn't really a defensive shooting, it a slightly different scenario. . . )

But if you are planning competitions, hunting or other recreational uses, the trigger will probably give you more value than the light. It can really elevate the "feel" of the shooting experience, and you knida have to feel it for yourself to know what you are missing. It's not one of those night-and-day "well I used to hate it, but now I actually love going to the range!" but it can make a string of fire feel really slick instead of slightly frustrating. I have a trigger I dolled up myself and it made Bill Drills so much more fun to shoot, just super crisp and breaks exactly when you expect it.

As far as teh lights themselves I have Surefire, Streamlight, Olight, Sig. . . probably others. . . as well as a smattering of off brand chineesium of various quality. Streamlights are my standard because they are pretty cost effective, have never failed me and they have good customer service (which I found out about because of my failure, not theirs). My last light from them was purchased about a year ago and is the laser/light combo, which I would reccomend for any carbine that will see close range use. The other mainline brands are also perfectly fine, but I find surefire to be pricey and Olight to be. . . a little odd. They have neat features but you kinda get locked into their own proprietary everything.

If you want something a bit more unique I picked up a few Monstrum WMLs from a gun show a few months back and they seem pretty OK, if a bit massive. They aluminum body, integrated rail deals, and while I have not abused them I assume the internals are about as tough as the body, which means they should last a good long while. Just make sure you have the rail space for them, they are not going to fit on everything.
 
@lucusloc , the ARs arent going to be used in my tiny apartment for home defense :s0140: but they'll be used for camp defense and mostly paper punching. For home, I have my cheapo SW40V which doesn't have a rail, or if I need bigger holes, 12ga. I have stupidly bright headlamps and flashlights already... So there is that.

Just I'd like a WML on at least the SBR to make use of some of its rail space lol the other two ARs are gonna be just paper punching for the most part, and the 20" HBAR will get the upgraded trigger, maybe both A2s, maybe all three retros (SBR, 16 and 20" A2s) IMG_20250829_191237.jpg

But that's why I'm kinda looking at the old school M3X for just the SBR..... Or if I could swing the money, a X300 something.
 
These Larue triggers are widely considered one of the best options on the market at any price. They used to be $80, which is what I bought mine for. At $115, they are still a great deal.


I have a Streamlight Protac HL that has moved from various rifles and shotguns. It's been one of those "meaning to upgrade" things for about a decade now, but just doesn't quit. Right now it's mounted on my Ruger SFAR 308. It lights up coyotes at 100-ish yards easily.
Seconding this, I thoroughly enjoy my MBT2S. Far better than milspec.

Those ProTac HL lights are bombproof. Only con is that the head is a little large in diameter, but in most cases it doesn't matter. For the price it's an excellent value.
 
I have Schmid two stage triggers in two of mine from Centurion Arms.
RRA, Sionics, Centurion Arms and a bunch of others use Schmid triggers.
I like them better than coo coo, Larue's two stage, don't like the trigger profile.

The Inforce is handy with the built in mount, I use an offset mount though to roll it to the 1:00 position.
 
My priorities may be considered backwards to some. lol.
No, I'd say some, are a little more of the armchair warrior types and have a tendency to overdue things. Your setup looks great to me! :s0155:
 

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