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Ok, at this point, I've decided it's me, but I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I've been salmon fishing four or five times a week for the last 3 weeks and I've hooked a lot of fish, usually one or two per trip on a corky and yarn, or more recently a spoon with treble hooks.

I normally fly fish, and almost always land my fish. Of my hookups, two of them fought for 30 seconds to a minute before wiggling free. I've landed countless sucker fish, usually one or two a trip.


Am I not setting my hook hard enough?
 
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You really have to wrench it in there with steelhead, I learned. More like a bass hookset, where in fly fishing I just raised the rod or they hook themselves.
 
I think I have it figured out. My buddy just told me that Chinook roll when they're hooked, and my drag is set really tight. So I think they're unhooking when they roll because there's no give.
 
Salmon don't attack the bait the way a steelhead does. Sometimes you have to be really alert and watching your rod tip to know they're biting it. Then you JERK!

No I didn't say "Then, you jerk." :)

You want your drag set to where if they really want line they can take it. Let your drag wear them out. When they are ready, you can reel them in. Pull up on your rod to pull them closer and then reel down really fast to take up more line.

I think they are more likely to shy away from a treble hook. I've never needed one.

You'll get it.

Cheers
 
Salmon don't attack the bait the way a steelhead does. Sometimes you have to be really alert and watching your rod tip to know they're biting it. Then you JERK!

No I didn't say "Then, you jerk." :)

You want your drag set to where if they really want line they can take it. Let your drag wear them out. When they are ready, you can reel them in. Pull up on your rod to pull them closer and then reel down really fast to take up more line.

I think they are more likely to shy away from a treble hook. I've never needed one.

You'll get it.

Cheers
I had my drag set to where it was very difficult to strip line by hand.
 
Too tight! If the fish wants more line he has to be able to take it or he'll break free.
I'm pretty sure that's why I've been losing them. I've hooked into and lost a fish about each time I've gone out, which equates to over ten fish hooked and lost in the last few weeks.
 
Salmon - responsive rod, spider wire type line (I used to use braided dacron a lot before the leader). Helped me to better sense a strike and to set the hook. Also, I did a lot of drift fishing, so it helped my to tell the difference between bouncing on the rocks and a fish.

Also seemed that siwash hooks did better than other styles. IMO treble hooks are worthless because they prevent a solid set, but many swear by them thinking the three hooks improve you odds. IMO that's like thinking that three lame pickup lines will work better than one good opener at the single's bar.

Whatever style of hook sharpen it even if they seem sharp and periodically touch them up. Also, drag like you mentioned must be smooth and not to heavy or light. Level wind/bait casting reel much better this way than a spinning reel for this reason.

EDIT: Siwash hook - Mustads never failed me
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What hooks are you using? I've completely ditched octopus hooks for Gamakatsu big river hooks. Octopus hooks have a short point on a big gentle bend and they slide out easy. Big river hooks have an angular bend thay doesn't allow the hook to slide out as well, and a long point. I got a 4/0 stuck in my hand the other day, I can attest to how hard they are to remove.

One trick on lures is to cut off trebles, that normally have a similar wide gap as an octopus hook. I then attach a small barrel swivel and the. Buy open eye big river hooks and pinch the eye closed on the swivel, not the lure. It allows for a fish to spin and turn the swivel rather than gain leverage on the hook.
 
I was using #4 single hooks for my corky rig, and the spinner is a treble. I'm running 15# mono, and I haven't had any problems feeling the hit or getting the initial hookup. It's just that I've lost each one.
 
I was using #4 single hooks for my corky rig, and the spinner is a treble. I'm running 15# mono, and I haven't had any problems feeling the hit or getting the initial hookup. It's just that I've lost each one.
When drifting corkies or bait, For smaller salmon like pinks and sockeye and steelhead, I use #2, or #1. #1 or 1/0 for Coho. 1/0 to 3/0 for chums and Chinook.

Lures: 2/0 to 4/0 based on the size of the lure.

Plunking: 1/0 to 3/0

Trolling herring: 4/0
 
Like others have said, loose the trebble hooks and run ether a good Siwash, or those big waters like @No_Regerts recommends.

I have found with Salmon, they some times come up and bite from the side, or they are trying to "Bump" it first before a strike, those Siwash hooks will really dig in when they do that! I have also found Salmon to be kinda subtle when they bite, sometimes they just nibble a bit at it, and sometimes then hit it like a Pit Bull on a bone, gotta have a sensitive rod to know when its a bit or just a bump!
 
River corkies I use medium drag. But ive found learning the path of least resistance for the fish was where they would travel through most often, cast into their common path and floss um all day. Note, tends to work higher up from river mouth where the river has its natural wind. If your fishing the wide flat mouth, they are all over the place, feelin um bonk into your waders as you stand there casting.
 

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