Sadlak NM Spring Guide for M1A

[HuckleberryFun]

Just got a call from Sadlak Industries telling me that the Sadlak National Match Spring Guide that I backordered a few months ago is finally being shipped out to me today.
This will complete all the standard recommended upgrades to accurize my Springfield Armory M1A Loaded short of bedding the stock. I want to keep it in "service rifle" configuration unless I ever do go ahead with my M21 sniper rifle project and slap a scope on it, so no bedding for now.

I'm closing in on 1MOA accuracy (1.25 MOA right now sans new spring guide), so I'll write up a range report when I brave the winter weather and get to the range.
I'm curious what difference, if any the NM spring guide will make.

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[JRuby]

i would be very interested in what mods you have made and how much it has helped your accuracy. I have an M1A service rifle myself and would be interested in your findings and reccomendations

 

[B3dlam]

Out of curiosity have you done a full load work-up utilizing a ladder test for this rifle or are you shooting factory ammunition.

 

[ron]

Unitize the gas system is an important NM modification. And is still 'service rifle'
legal. I don't think the NM spring guide will show much improvement in accuracy.
Could be wrong I will be interested in the range report. Handloads are a big
improvement over factory ammo. My handloads work much better than even
Black Hills match ammo.
M14 GAS CYLINDER | Brownells

 

[etrain16]

Just got a call from Sadlak Industries telling me that the Sadlak National Match Spring Guide that I backordered a few months ago is finally being shipped out to me today.
This will complete all the standard recommended upgrades to accurize my Springfield Armory M1A Loaded short of bedding the stock. I want to keep it in "service rifle" configuration unless I ever do go ahead with my M21 sniper rifle project and slap a scope on it, so no bedding for now.

I'm closing in on 1MOA accuracy (1.25 MOA right now sans new spring guide), so I'll write up a range report when I brave the winter weather and get to the range.
I'm curious what difference, if any the NM spring guide will make.

Like @JRuby, I'd be curious to know all the upgrades you've done. I bought an M1A "loaded" model a few months back, which is equipped with some of the NM upgrades already, though I doubt the spring guide is one of those items. Here is what mine came with:

Upgraded version of Standard M1A. NM air-gauged medium weight barrel. NM flash suppressor. 2-stage military trigger, 4 to 5 lbs. NM front blade sight, GI match-grade nonhooded rear sight - 1/2 MOA windage/1 MOA elevation adjustable.

Just curious what else you have or will be upgrading on yours? I'm new to the M1A, so always looking to learn a bit more about them.

 

[HuckleberryFun]

Out of curiosity have you done a full load work-up utilizing a ladder test for this rifle or are you shooting factory ammunition.

I'm shooting factory ammo, for now: 168gr HPBT Federal Match
I haven't done a ladder test to seek out that "perfect" load
because I don't have a press yet. Got my sights on a Dillon 550b and I've already started getting some of the components.

 

[HuckleberryFun]

Like @JRuby, I'd be curious to know all the upgrades you've done. I bought an M1A "loaded" model a few months back, which is equipped with some of the NM upgrades already, though I doubt the spring guide is one of those items. Here is what mine came with:

Upgraded version of Standard M1A. NM air-gauged medium weight barrel. NM flash suppressor. 2-stage military trigger, 4 to 5 lbs. NM front blade sight, GI match-grade nonhooded rear sight - 1/2 MOA windage/1 MOA elevation adjustable.

Just curious what else you have or will be upgrading on yours? I'm new to the M1A, so always looking to learn a bit more about them.

I have the same Loaded version, so much of the needed upgrades over a standard rack grade rifle have already been done: trigger, barrel, front sight, etc.

That leaves the rear sight which is improved over the standard but not true NM (you'd have to do some drilling/tapping to mount one with all 1/2 MOA adjustments. I haven't done that.
But I have added a unitized gas cylinder from LRB, and inside the cylinder I added a TiN piston from Sadlak. To prevent warping I treated the stock with pure tung oil from Milk Paint Company and then some gunny paste.
You lose that kinda pretty red-tinged SAI factory color in the stock but making it more field-use friendly was worth it to me.
The stocks from the factory come way too dry. I also put a 1907 sling on it which helps accuracy when shooting standing, prone, etc...once you learn to use it right which takes practice!
Add the Sadlak Guide Rod we talked about and you've done everything to accurize your M1A Loaded short of stock bedding.

M1A gurus please chime in if I left something out.
I'm on a learning curve too.

 

[B3dlam]

I'm shooting factory ammo, for now: 168gr HPBT Federal Match
I haven't done a ladder test to seek out that "perfect" load
because I don't have a press yet. Got my sights on a Dillon 550b and I've already started getting some of the components.

I would definitely give the load test a try as soon as you can I would expect to see a significant improvement in accuracy from that unless you were damn lucky about the factory loads.

 

[etrain16]

I have the same Loaded version, so much of the needed upgrades over a standard rack grade rifle have already been done: trigger, barrel, front sight, etc.

That leaves the rear sight which is improved over the standard but not true NM (you'd have to do some drilling/tapping to mount one with all 1/2 MOA adjustments. I haven't done that.
But I have added a unitized gas cylinder from LRB, and inside the cylinder I added a TiN piston from Sadlak. To prevent warping I treated the stock with pure tung oil from Milk Paint Company and then some gunny paste.
You lose that kinda pretty red-tinged SAI factory color in the stock but making it more field-use friendly was worth it to me.
The stocks from the factory come way too dry. I also put a 1907 sling on it which helps accuracy when shooting standing, prone, etc...once you learn to use it right which takes practice!
Add the Sadlak Guide Rod we talked about and you've done everything to accurize your M1A Loaded short of stock bedding.

M1A gurus please chime in if I left something out.
I'm on a learning curve too.

I know what you are saying about the stock - I posted a thread about that not long ago. I was surprised for such a fine gun that the stock appeared to me to be maybe 80% complete - it still needs some sanding and maybe a final finish coat or two to really seal the wood. I'm a bit surprised on an almost $1,500 rifle that they are happy sending them out that way. I've not yet decided how I want to address the wood - as you said the tung oil will change the color of the wood, and I'd like to preserve that as much as possible.

Though I'm not out to start shooting it for extreme accuracy yet, it's good to know what mods over the "loaded" model might be helpful. Sounds like the unitized gas cylinder that @ron recommended along with the TiN piston from Saklak should probably get on the list

 

[HuckleberryFun]

Definately, if you do nothing else just unitizing the cylinder is something you should do. I saw a marked tightening of groups after I did that.

 

[JRuby]

What does it mean when you state " unitizing the gas cylinder" what actually occurs. Before I do it I want to understand what it is.

Thanks

 

[HuckleberryFun]

What does it mean when you state " unitizing the gas cylinder" what actually occurs. Before I do it I want to understand what it is.

Thanks

The stock M14/M1A gas cylinder comes in two pieces: the cylinder itself and the front band that goes on the end of your stock.


By making the assembly one piece you are positively affecting the harmonics of your free floating barrel since (unless it's bedded) the barrel only touches the receiver and the piston assembly. There are two ways to unitize the cylinder: the Army AMU method using screws or the Marine Corps welding method. I chose welded, though many prefer the screw method since there are supposedly stories out there of welds breaking. I personally don't think that's very likely.
In any case, a one-piece unitized gas piston assembly will make for a more accurate M14/M1A and is de rigeur equipment for any kind of serious marksman who uses an M14/M1A/M21.
Shooters at Camp Perry or Designated Marksmen on the two way firing range always have unitized gas cylinders. You can look all this up and get up to speed with some reading such as on the M14forum.

Recommended reading: The M14 Owner's Guide and Match Conditioning Instructions by Scott Duff and John Miller. Tells you much of what you need to know to service and upgrade your rifle.

 

[etrain16]

The stock M14/M1A gas cylinder comes in two pieces: the cylinder itself and the front band that goes on the end of your stock.
View attachment 336314

By making the assembly one piece you are positively affecting the harmonics of your free floating barrel since (unless it's bedded) the barrel only touches the receiver and the piston assembly. There are two ways to unitize the cylinder: the Army AMU method using screws or the Marine Corps welding method. I chose welded, though many prefer the screw method since there are supposedly stories out there of welds breaking. I personally don't think that's very likely.
In any case, a one-piece unitized gas piston assembly will make for a more accurate M14/M1A and is de rigeur equipment for any kind of serious marksman who uses an M14/M1A/M21.
Shooters at Camp Perry or Designated Marksmen on the two way firing range always have unitized gas cylinders. You can look all this up and get up to speed with some reading such as on the M14forum.

Recommended reading: The M14 Owner's Guide and Match Conditioning Instructions by Scott Duff and John Miller. Tells you much of what you need to know to service and upgrade your rifle.

I learnt new stuff!

 

[HuckleberryFun]

I learnt new stuff!

Ideally, that's what this forum is for: to exchange useful knowledge. OK, it's really for smart mouthing and being silly with like minded people, but there are gems to be found too.

 

[JRuby]

The stock M14/M1A gas cylinder comes in two pieces: the cylinder itself and the front band that goes on the end of your stock.
View attachment 336314

By making the assembly one piece you are positively affecting the harmonics of your free floating barrel since (unless it's bedded) the barrel only touches the receiver and the piston assembly. There are two ways to unitize the cylinder: the Army AMU method using screws or the Marine Corps welding method. I chose welded, though many prefer the screw method since there are supposedly stories out there of welds breaking. I personally don't think that's very likely.
In any case, a one-piece unitized gas piston assembly will make for a more accurate M14/M1A and is de rigeur equipment for any kind of serious marksman who uses an M14/M1A/M21.
Shooters at Camp Perry or Designated Marksmen on the two way firing range always have unitized gas cylinders. You can look all this up and get up to speed with some reading such as on the M14forum.

Recommended reading: The M14 Owner's Guide and Match Conditioning Instructions by Scott Duff and John Miller. Tells you much of what you need to know to service and upgrade your rifle.

Thank you for taking the time to explain this to me.

 

[JRuby]

Do you think installiing a variable gas plug on an m1a is benefficial?

 

[HuckleberryFun]

Do you think installiing a variable gas plug on an m1a is benefficial?

I can't speak from direct experience on the adjustable plugs like the Schuster (sp ?), but I think that unless you are shooting heavier/more powerful loads than the platform was designed for its probably best to stay away from them. I won't ever be shooting heavier than 180gr or trying for 1000 yard shots (800 is my self imposed max--600 yards more likely) so I won't need one. The beauty of the Garand/M14/M1A platform is its robust simplicity and I see no reason to make the "plumbing" more complicated.

 

[ron]

NM sights can be installed with no drilling and/or taping. One important point is in
proper cleaning as not to damage the rifle. Do not take the rifle out of the wood stock.
Take the receiver out of the wood only when absolutely necessary. I go many years!
Clean the barrel and chamber. I use a Dewey coated rod and muzzle guide
that fits over the flash hider. After cleaning the action, grease her up good.
The M1A like the G-ran run on GREASE. Mobil 1 synthetic better than lubriplate!
When cleaning the gas system use the proper wrench to hold the gas cylinder.
This prevents the splines of the barrel attaching the gas system from being damaged.
After cleaning the gas cylinder and piston assemble it clean and dry
NO oil, grease or solvent!
M1A necessary tools two drill bits and a gas cylinder wrench.
<broken link removed>

 

[H2O MAN]

. In 2000 I went the National Match route with my one & only M1A, a Scout Squad bedded in Walnut. The results were pretty good, and I was able to shoot 1.5 to 2 MOA groups consistently.



I switched to the SAGE EBR & custom built M14s in 2004, and that's when I was able to get sub-MOA accuracy. I replaced my SAGE stocks with the lightweight Blackfeather RS a couple years ago, same accuracy with less weight. When I do my part, this 16.25" M14 shoots 1 MOA with Portuguese NATO surplus, tighter groups when I use quality 168 gr. & LC M118 LR.



All of my M14s have Sadlak op rod spring guides & mag releases... the gas systems are unitized using shims that replace, or work with the barrel band. I use Smith Enterprise extra volume gas plugs, and I run a sound suppressor most of the time. The trigger groups have SEI's full MAX-PAK upgrade.

I also use these springs > Tubb Precision CS M1A/M14 Op-Rod & Hammer Spring set