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Took an old-school paper map road trip once with a gal I was dating about 20 years ago.
We stopped to chat with a fellow in Arizona Navajo country. He showed us 3-toed dinosaur footprints on the flat red sandstone, and he translated some things into the Navajo tongue, saying that's probably the last time we'd ever hear anything like it.
He looked about 35-40 years old. His dad and uncles were all WWII code-talkers. Stanford educated, he explained that he was "a drunk like everyone" he knew, and he had "come back home," content to charge 2-3 dollars to pour water into the dino imprints so we could see them. Said the sagging skateboard generation was not terribly interested in their Navajo heritage so it would dissipate.
We drove on with tears streaming.
This was a dry county, no booze sales as a hedge against rampant alcoholism. But the roadside sparkled everywhere, seemingly paved with broken glass bottles. We counted 35 crosses in 55 miles.
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