Python repair

[wdj1954]

I have a 4 inch Python that seem to have a timing issue. I have read all the cautions about taking it to someone who isn't qualified to work on old colts. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good gunsmith. I am in Walla Walla so I prefer someone in eastern Waashington, eastern Oregon or western Idaho. I don't mind driving to drop it off, but I really don't want to ship it if I don't have too.

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[jbett98]

Found this on the Interweb. 1911Forum

How to check the critical timing of the old Colt double action revolvers.

This covers models like the Official Police, original Trooper, 3-5-7, Officer's Models, Python, Detective Special, Police Positive and Police Positive Special, Diamondback, Cobra, etc.

BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.
Cock the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.
The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.
The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it must pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.

CYLINDER UNLOCKING.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again cock the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY cock the hammer.
As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.
The bolt must retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.
If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.
This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.

BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to cock the hammer, LIGHTLY laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".
Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.
The bolt MUST drop onto the leade or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.
The bolt should drop into "about" the middle of the ramp.
If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.
It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.

CYLINDER LOCKUP.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.
The bolt must drop into the actual lock notch before or just as the hammer reaches full cock.
The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).
In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.
In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the leade, but usually wear in to correct timing.
If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.
If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.

Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.

A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.

Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.

The bolt will drop onto the middle of the ramp.

The bolt will drop into the lock notch just before or as the hammer reaches full cock.

Have a smooth trigger pull, which does "stack" or get heavier as the trigger is pulled.

 

[Geardo]

I just went through this.

Send it to this guy. Well respected, fastest, and cheapest.

Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ - Pricing, Colt Python

 

[jbett98]

I've got an old 1927 Colt Official Police revolver that had some timing issues and the culprit was a weak cylinder latch spring.
When cocking double action, the cylinder bolt would almost be engaged, but if you pushed the cylinder release latch forward with your thumb while cocking in double action, the cylinder bolt would lock up tight.
If you decide to pop the side plate, don't pry up on it, just whack the grip frame gently with a plastic faced hammer and the side plate will pop up.
The cylinder latch spring is a cheap and easy part to replace.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Make sure it's clean and lubed.
I hate all "spring kits" too.

 

[Velzey]

They are all hand fit. So just swapping parts doesn't work allot of time. Good thing is I can still get allot of Python parts directly from Colt. I usually repair timing on 2-3 per year.
As mention above there is a right way and a wrong way to take the side plate off. It's a delicate procedure.
I don't know anyone right up around your area that does repair.

 

[wdj1954]

The symptoms my gun has are: when you thumb the hammer back in single action and pull the trigger, the hammer seems to catch on the trigger and try to drag the trigger forward both stop about halfway, if you release the trigger it returns to normal. It is pretty good in double action.

 

[jbett98]

Sounds like it needs a good cleaning and inspection.

 

[wdj1954]

I had sent it to Colt about 3 or 4 years ago ( right around the time of their latest bankruptcy) they had it for 3 months inspected it said it would cost about $100 with shipping. I paid them and didn't hear from them for almost a year. When I called them they kept saying there was a backlog and my gun was in line. A few months later I got a letter saying Colt no longer does this kind of work and they would return my gun and money. They had my gun about 18 months all together and did nothing (except waste shipping charges). Needless to say I am not a big fan of the "New Colt"corp. This is the reason I would rather hand deliver it rather to ship the gun out

 

[jbett98]

Was it for the same issues you're having now?

 

[wdj1954]

yes, the same issues.

 

[jbett98]

Did Colt inform you to what the issue was?

 

[wdj1954]

no, I didn't actually talk to a gunsmith it was a women from the accounting dept.

 

[jbett98]

Sounds like Colt Manufacturing.
When I called Hi-Point to ask about some trigger replacement parts, the front desk lady connected me to the shop foreman to answer my questions and after giving me very detailed instructions, he then offered to ship me every part of the rifle but the receiver, barrel and sear for free.

 

[wdj1954]

I broke down and sent it to Frank Glenn in Arizona, it took him only a few hours to diagnose, repair and ship it back.