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Thank you all again. I'm trying to make my 1911's as accurate as possible. Now if I could just get back my vision as a teenager...
 
When I am loading my rifle hunting ammo I weigh every charge. When I am making almost any other ammo I crank the chit out on the progressive and check a few here and there. A 10th of a grain in a 25 ACP might be a concern, but not in a 45.
If you want to see if it matters. Make a batch weighing every charge. Then make a similar batch using your measure. See if it makes a real difference.

Probably not.
 
I thought I had read somewhere where dumping 10 charges and weighing them and dividing by 10 would give you a pretty accurate measure of where you were at for each powder dump. I am hoping my new way of doing this averages things out a little bit better. And I suppose you guys are right, 1/10 of a grain with a low level pistol charge probably doesn't make much difference.
This is the method used by some of the top long range guys. Or at least one of them that wrote a book on precision loading.
 
The technique used when throwing charges matters too. Consistency and repeatability are the key.
 
Try using anti-static liquid especially on the plastic, also tubes, scale pans and metal. It does not have to be on the inside, just wipe the outside surfaces.

Use the professional liquid, don't cheap out. The liquid should evaporate after a couple of minutes and last for weeks.

When I worked as a chemist, we used anti-static mats under all of our scales. They had varying results, so we wiped them down with anti-static liquid.

Flake powders have large surface areas and are especially prone to effects of static.
 
A very good friend of mine whom I regularly get to use his D650 has an aquarium air pump that he rubber bands to the hopper. The slight vibrations from that throw super consistent charges, even with flake powders. Just last weekend I loaded over 600 10mm's and had no issues at all once I set the charge weight. I still weigh every 25-50th charge once set up to verify but almost never needs adjustment.
 
Thank you all again. I'm trying to make my 1911's as accurate as possible. Now if I could just get back my vision as a teenager...
Want to make them as accurate as possible, do load workups with many different powders and different powder amounts. When I ran out of Titegroup, I did workups in 45ACP using 200gr HP and all the suitable powders I had. W231 was by far the best. YMMV
 
Dang. Good answer. :rolleyes:


One of the things I do when I set the scale is have the light in a good position, and look at the needle on the scale from the exact same angle as when I adjusted it for desired drop weight.
balance scales are good, but a high dollar digital will drive you crazy due to the air movement makes it move. And 231 for the win!
 
I seem to be getting a tenth of a grain difference both ways when weighing every tenth round.
Depending on the powder 1/10th of a grain can be one kernel or several. That won't effect jack unless trying to put them in the same hole at several hundred yards. And precision long range shooting requires much more work than counting powder kernels. I've used an RCBS powder measure for over 40 years and it works just fine. It will meter consistent charges of fine ball powder of 1.5 grains. The charge for a .25ACP, which I've reloaded hundreds. Keep in mind all manufactures load by volume, not weight, and unless bench rest shooting (or the shooter is a precision fanatic) they work quite well.
 
balance scales are good, but a high dollar digital will drive you crazy due to the air movement makes it move. And 231 for the win!
I don't believe I could ever use a electronic scale.
Same with a balance scale and air movement.. Several years ago I had a small fan in the room on a hot day. Not even aimed directly at the table, and that messed with the scale.
 
Those flake powders don't meter well, try W231 or a faster ball powder.
Unique has been my "go to" pistol powder forever. I've tried W231 and others and they made no difference in accuracy at all. I've always gone back to Unique and have had my .45ACP loads make one ragged hole at 25 yards with Unique shooting from the bench. There is an old saying, "If it ain't broke don't fix it."

And to mention a previous comment, when setting the measure I'll throw ten charges and average the ten to set the measure. When all ten average within 1/10th I'm good to go. I'll load a tray and check every tenth charge. Seems pretty consistent to me. I also "rap" the measure when dropping the charge and returning the handle to the charge position. That helps with powders such as 3031. Remember that powder measures are designed to cut individual kernels to maintain volume, all manufacturers load by volume.
 
I have also used Unique for pistol in the past and all of the tips to try to make it work clean are above. Second to the top of the list of these tips would be a consistent cadence, or throw, along with making sure you get a little "rap" top and bottom of the lever to settle the powder. #1 for me though would be to switch powder.
 
Perhaps my speed-reading skills are failing.

Did anyone specifically mention chronograph readings as the measure of "consistency"?

This will tell you in black and white whether or not weighing or throwing charges is a more consistent method (for THAT cartridge, powder, equipment, etc.)

Sometimes weighing is the clear winner. Change the cartridge, powder, measure, etc., and throwing can be the best for consistency.

....And please remember: Consistency does NOT always equal accuracy.
 
For me technique has as much to do with accuracy as anything else I do. I can throw as accurate loads with a dipper as a mechanical measure. but it takes practice.
And I can make the cheap plastic Lee powder measure drop really accurate small loads. But to do it takes good technique.
With the dippers rub them first with an anti-static cloth, shake up the powder in the bulk container to give the powder an even density, and then make the scoops dig into the powder the same depth every stroke through the same as the last, and finally whether you tap or scrape the excess powder off the scoop do it exactly the same every time.
I have a routine for mechanical measures too. I settle the powder in the hopper, dump the first ten loads right back into the hopper, and work the measures handle like I mean it. don't be gentle and work it the same every time. and then if I stop loading for a few min I then toss a few loads back into the hopper to get the powder flowing the same again before I start again.

Good tools make loading faster but it's the technique that makes accuracy. DR
 
Perhaps my speed-reading skills are failing.

Did anyone specifically mention chronograph readings as the measure of "consistency"?

This will tell you in black and white whether or not weighing or throwing charges is a more consistent method (for THAT cartridge, powder, equipment, etc.)

Sometimes weighing is the clear winner. Change the cartridge, powder, measure, etc., and throwing can be the best for consistency.

....And please remember: Consistency does NOT always equal accuracy.
The most accurate ammo in my 30-06AI has a fairly high ES. That's at 100 yards. Maybe it wouldn't' be as accurate at a longer range.
 
The most accurate ammo in my 30-06AI has a fairly high ES. That's at 100 yards. Maybe it wouldn't' be as accurate at a longer range.
That's the difference between accuracy and precision. High ES wont be as precise at longer range.
 

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