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G27 Complete.
445872-cfbc80e1fcb25d8a86b4ea8dddf6c85c.jpg
And with it's older brother (previous G23 build)
445873-1ad23408cf546e63ef370e09009f1245.jpg
As mentioned in another thead, the slide release uses a standard coil spring (provided) rather than a leaf spring. Not quite sure how I feel about that yet. We'll see. The only other main variation is that the forward locking block pin is non-standard (also provided and SS). I don't anticipate any future problems, however, if it ever needs to be replaced it's not a pin you'll find in your Glock parts toolbox.

The only other point to note is that it's a 2 pin (trigger/locking block & trigger housing) user supplied build.

Other than the SS embelishments (pins, ext. slide lock, ext. slide release & custom slide backplate) all parts are new OEM.

The rear rails were a little wide, quite tight and needed a little re-working. Nothing new there. Very gradual little swipes and tweaks here and there... a lot of fitting and re-fitting... par for the course.

Caution! If you are like me and remove your frame from the jig for inspection prior to milling be aware of placement when installing it back into the jig. It appears to be the same jig for all frame sizes and you must be careful replacing your subcompact frame into the jig perfectly level and with all upper tabs locking into the appropriate upper positions. Special attention to the tab on the upper rear of the frame placement.

While the compact and full size frames rely on other, lower, contact points to assure proper alignment (and the jig won't close properly unless properly aligned) the subcompact is such that it is possible to have the frame slightly out of upper alignment and the jig will still close.

If I hadn't noticed the front of the frame ever so slightly higher in the front and had drilled my holes... I woulda been screwed. ;-)

That being said, when in the proper position, it was fully stable for milling even without the lower contact points.

All in all? I LIKE it! Extremely pleased with the Poly80 subcompact.
 
Old thread.

The coil spring at the slide lock was an upgraded design copied from Glock.
The old leaf spring design was failure prone and sometimes very tough to remove the broken spring section from the frame.
If you buy a used Glock that has the leaf spring, change it out for a fresh one.

Instead of milling, or Dremeling or filing on the top tabs, this is the bee's knees :
PLIERS-END%20NIP-2.jpg
FLUSH CUT end nippers. The brand is Fastcap. About $15
If you are OCD and want to cut a little high (and then file), tape a layer of card stock to the frame. This will hold the nippers up a few thousandths.
You don't cut the tab in one fell swoop. Get the nippers aligned and give them several "squeezes" as you work through the tab.
 

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