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Need advice on hunting
- Thread Starter SVT_PNW
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Just a couple of thoughts - if your considering a magnum I would not be going with too light a rifle. Yes it is easier to carry but practice may not be a lot of fun. The scope you have selected ( Arken ) does not sound like a light weight scope. To me a light rifle deserves a light scope and hence a heavier rifle would be more at home with a larger scope. I am not a fan of a lot of the new cartridges. If given a choice I would choose something like a Sako in a 300 Win Mag or a 7mm Remington magnum. Even a nice Ruger 77 makes a lot sense to me. Choosing a hunting rifle is a very personal process. What makes sense to someone else may not make sense to you. I suspect this first rifle wont be the last one you buy. Experience is a heck of a teacher.
One other consideration to cost is that there are a lot of gently used rifles that can save some money. My safe is full of them because there aren't many rifles built today I find very attractive. Nice wood and blued metal is the way I normally go.
One other consideration to cost is that there are a lot of gently used rifles that can save some money. My safe is full of them because there aren't many rifles built today I find very attractive. Nice wood and blued metal is the way I normally go.
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If you can't find a worthy used rifle, like @JRuby smartly suggested., there is nothing wrong with an affordable TIKKA.
TIKKA T3X Lite .30-06 would work. Purchase it before the end of the month for ammo $$$ kick-back.
www.eurooptic.com
choose.tikka.fi
Probably won't need all of the magnification of your chosen optic. Shouldn't need a bipod either....shooting sticks or hiking poles work fine. Light-weight sling and quality rings will serve you well.
An optic with an objective lens 50mm or less.... with magnification on lower end near ~2.5x and a top end not exceeding 16x should be more than enough. Since the rifle is light, a "compact" scope would pair well. Something with an over-all length ~12"... If you want to get fancy, find one with an adjustable illuminated dot.
Opinion based solely on my personal hunting experiences east of the Cascades.
TIKKA T3X Lite .30-06 would work. Purchase it before the end of the month for ammo $$$ kick-back.
Tikka T3x Lite .30-06 Springfield Rifle JRTXE320
Tikka T3x Lite .30-06 Springfield Rifle JRTXE320 | Only at EuroOptic.com!
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Probably won't need all of the magnification of your chosen optic. Shouldn't need a bipod either....shooting sticks or hiking poles work fine. Light-weight sling and quality rings will serve you well.
An optic with an objective lens 50mm or less.... with magnification on lower end near ~2.5x and a top end not exceeding 16x should be more than enough. Since the rifle is light, a "compact" scope would pair well. Something with an over-all length ~12"... If you want to get fancy, find one with an adjustable illuminated dot.
Opinion based solely on my personal hunting experiences east of the Cascades.
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Tikka T3 stainless in 30-06 with a limb saver recoil pad would be my suggestion. Very accurate rifle, cheap easy to find cartridge and rain resistant. The limb saver pad makes stout loads very manageable. You can find stainless T3 Tikkas hardly used in 30-06 for way cheaper than most other cartridges. I have bought two with decent scopes for $600.
Spend more on a good scope and solid rings. I avoid any scopes with exposed dial turrets for hunting. Too easy to bump or leave on the wrong elevation. I want simple lightweight clear scope with capped turrets. I prefer drop reticles since most shots will be less than 300 yards and don't require using more than the primary cross hair. Sadly, manufactures have moved away from drop reticles to moa or mil hash marks.
I have a 300 wm I have killed a few elk with it. It is not fun to shoot with the recoil. I rather use a 30-06 in a lighter rifle if I am seriously hiking when hunting.
As far as bullets, you are no going to die from lead poisoning using lead core bullets. While solid copper work good, they are not superior to quality lead core hunting bullets. There is pros and cons to them. I use 180 gr Nosler partitions for elk. They work well and shoot consistently 1 moa from our Tikkas at 200 yards. If I did not have a lifetime supply of them, I would consider a bonded poly tipped bullet.
Spend more on a good scope and solid rings. I avoid any scopes with exposed dial turrets for hunting. Too easy to bump or leave on the wrong elevation. I want simple lightweight clear scope with capped turrets. I prefer drop reticles since most shots will be less than 300 yards and don't require using more than the primary cross hair. Sadly, manufactures have moved away from drop reticles to moa or mil hash marks.
I have a 300 wm I have killed a few elk with it. It is not fun to shoot with the recoil. I rather use a 30-06 in a lighter rifle if I am seriously hiking when hunting.
As far as bullets, you are no going to die from lead poisoning using lead core bullets. While solid copper work good, they are not superior to quality lead core hunting bullets. There is pros and cons to them. I use 180 gr Nosler partitions for elk. They work well and shoot consistently 1 moa from our Tikkas at 200 yards. If I did not have a lifetime supply of them, I would consider a bonded poly tipped bullet.
Your on the right track selecting a cartridge first.
My opinions...
You don't need a 300 win mag power to land elk, too much recoil, not fun to shoot.
Look for cartridges within the Modern Cartridge Designs, the PRCs and some Ackley Improved new and old cartridges. Select a fast twist bullet. I love my 280Ackley Improved, you should take a close look at its ballistics
Easy recoil, flat trajectory, plenty of energy and velocity downrange, accurate.Bullets: if you want to be specific about what bullet you use you will need to handload. You have to find by random trials which brand of factory ammo shoots best in any rifle, so one brand with your preferred bullet might not group well, but another with a lead or poorly performing bullet might group excellent... it is what it is. You might get lucky, one of my hunting partners did with Barnes ammo shot sub moa in his rifle. Ive never been that lucky with factory ammo. Solid copper bullets are performing very reliable on game (I personally think they are superior), but have less options in factory ammo. Weatherby and Barnes are producing factory ammo using solid copper bullets in some elk calibers.
You sight in with your hunting round, and practice with your hunting round. Especially if you want to hunt long range. I suppose its possible you can get lucky, but different bullets will have different drops. Its expensive to practice with your hunting ammo but it just is what it is.
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Not sure what luck or 300WM rifle you were using. I've got a 300WM and it's both light weight and low recoil, it all just depends on the rifle. I've had my 10yo fire my 300WM Browning X-Bolt and she has no issue with the recoil, I've even fired it one handed just to see if I could and barely felt anything. Depending on the factory ammo I've also had some decent luck with staying in 1MOA at 300yd. I still love making my own ammo as well and getting to using with the same results.Your on the right track selecting a cartridge first.
My opinions...
You don't need a 300 win mag power to land elk, too much recoil, not fun to shoot.
Look for cartridges within the Modern Cartridge Designs, the PRCs and some Ackley Improved new and old cartridges. Select a fast twist bullet. I love my 280Ackley Improved, you should take a close look at its ballistics
Bullets: if you want to be specific about what bullet you use you will need to handload. You have to find by random trials which brand of factory ammo shoots best in any rifle, so one brand with your preferred bullet might not group well, but another with a lead or poorly performing bullet might group excellent... it is what it is. You might get lucky, one of my hunting partners did with Barnes ammo shot sub moa in his rifle. Ive never been that lucky with factory ammo. Solid copper bullets are performing very reliable on game (I personally think they are superior), but have less options in factory ammo. Weatherby and Barnes are producing factory ammo using solid copper bullets in some elk calibers.
You sight in with your hunting round, and practice with your hunting round. Especially if you want to hunt long range. I suppose its possible you can get lucky, but different bullets will have different drops. Its expensive to practice with your hunting ammo but it just is what it is.
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So 30-06 and 300WM are a good pick and are on the cheaper side for ammo of the 4 you listed. As for rifles, what kind of weight limit are you trying to stay under and what type of barrel?
As for myself I use a 300WM Browning X-bolt and have little recoil felt when I fire it and it's also the one I use when I take my kid with me and she is able to handle it really well for being 10yo. Another I have used is the Ruger Precision in 308 but it is on the heavier side compared to the Browning and even my 6yo was able to handle it with no issues, it does come in 308, 30-06 and 300WM last I checked. Both are good options if recoil is and issue, the Browning can also be equip with a silencer as well if you want. Both are over 20inch length.
As for ammo, I've been using Hornady's newer CX and ELD-X bullets with good success for accuracy at 200-400yd and they are both designed to reach upto 800yd.
I'll say the cartridge is awesome, plenty of power downrange, but that much power is just not needed to bring down an elk and so.... in my opinion, Im not fond of the recoil, it was too excessive to enjoy practicing with. The OP mentioned about its recoil, so just sharing my opinion.
The 300 win mag I had experience with was a Browning lever gun, beautiful rifle (wish we still had it...). If the OP tries one and the recoil doesn't bother him then it would certainly be a great contender. IIRC factory ammo is a tad more expensive?
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Thanks guys, this is all really helpful. In regards to weight, I'm not too concerned with it as i have done lots of back country travel with heavy packs/gear. The only thing i would question is matching the weight of the rifle to the caliber. Seems like a bigger caliber would want a heavier gun? I'd also plan to put a muzzle brake on it regardless of caliber. I didn't know about those limb saver pads either. Are you talking about the one you wear or the one that slips on the stock? Assuming the brake, and limb saver levels the field in recoil, it may just come down to cost per round. If i really get into it i'll look into reloading but for the time being, i'll stick with factory loads. Also, i'd likely be staying under 400 yards to start. Maybe once i gain some experience and maybe upgrade guns i'll look to push it out a little farther. Also, no one has said anything about barrel length. Is 20in too short for those calibers or is it fine? I've been doing a little more research and looking at the Tikka T3x Lite with the adjustable cheek pad or the T3x Roughtech. All the Tikka's i've seen are in the 22-24" barrel range.
I do a fair amount of backpack hunting and IMO keep the rifles weight under 10lbs if you can.
Rifle doesn't matter, they are all pretty good these days. Go as light as your wallet allows.
Caliber doesn't matter. As covered above, any long-action cartridge will bring down an elk.
You scope is RIDICULOUSLY large. A 3-9x40-ish range scope is plenty. Get something wish a simple reticle and good glass.
You're going to get sick of humping that 10+ pound rifle/scope around pretty quick.
Don't focus on hardware, especially the first few seasons. What you think you're probably going to like is almost guaranteed to change as you use it.
Fieldcraft matters. Get in the woods and learn how to move deliberately, quietly and focus on your breathing and how much noise you make. You also stink, pay attention to the wind and how it changes as you move and as the weather changes.
My choice? I use a Tikka T3x .30-06 in a Manners carbon fiber stock with a Trijicon Accupoint 3-9x40 on it. Longest shot I've ever taken at an elk is 288 yards. Typically I'm shooting under 150.
If you don't already have a GOOD set of binoculars, spend your money there first.
Caliber doesn't matter. As covered above, any long-action cartridge will bring down an elk.
You scope is RIDICULOUSLY large. A 3-9x40-ish range scope is plenty. Get something wish a simple reticle and good glass.
You're going to get sick of humping that 10+ pound rifle/scope around pretty quick.
Don't focus on hardware, especially the first few seasons. What you think you're probably going to like is almost guaranteed to change as you use it.
Fieldcraft matters. Get in the woods and learn how to move deliberately, quietly and focus on your breathing and how much noise you make. You also stink, pay attention to the wind and how it changes as you move and as the weather changes.
My choice? I use a Tikka T3x .30-06 in a Manners carbon fiber stock with a Trijicon Accupoint 3-9x40 on it. Longest shot I've ever taken at an elk is 288 yards. Typically I'm shooting under 150.
If you don't already have a GOOD set of binoculars, spend your money there first.
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The Browning X-Bolt Hell's Canyon 300WM I have only has the soft thick butt pad and omni-break that came with it and both have worked really well. The Ruger Precision I've got came with a rubber 3butt pad and 6port break. As for length I wouldn't go any shorter than 18" for what you want. As for reloading, my 300WM is what got be into it do to cost of ammo and lack of at the time I got it, still good cost savings to load yourself for now.
Specs on the one I use: https://www.browning.com/products/f...inued/x-bolt-hells-canyon-long-range-ndt.html select the 300WM
I also like that the Ruger and the Browning I have because you are able to adjust the trigger tension to make it lighter or heavier depending in how you like it.
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Yeah, I can't imagine the lever guns have much in the way of recoil reduction. As for the ammo, 30-06 and 300WM seem to closely priced but still cheaper than 6.5PRC or 7PRC. I do also have and use 308 and 30-06 for Elk but I've liked carrying the 300WM better than the others. I'm not a big fan of heavy recoil either so I've been picky about what I've bought and made changes to some that I have already to reduce recoil.
Muzzle brakes are more common today and that could help. All I remember was my shoulder was black and blue after just 20 rounds and I was done. Ive fired 30-06, 7RM, my 280ai none leave me with a bruised shoulder so we didn't shoot the 300wm much. If I recall, the 300WM retains way more velocity and energy than other elk calibers it would make a great long range elk rifle if thats what someone wanted but thats really reaching out there.
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I can understand that if that happened, I'm glad that I can put 60rd down range and not be sore with what I've got. An being able to reach out and touch is a very nice thing to have.
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The 300 needs a longer barrel to burn the power to get the most out of it. If I was going to go light and short, I'd go with a 308, or a 30-06.
I may be in the minority, but I don't shoot my hunting rifle a whole lot. I have a .223 that I shoot a lot. Off hand, prone, and kneeling as I would while hunting.
Just remember you're going to get another one probably, so don't over think it. I have had many rifles some I was glad to get rid of and some I would not sell for double their value.
I may be in the minority, but I don't shoot my hunting rifle a whole lot. I have a .223 that I shoot a lot. Off hand, prone, and kneeling as I would while hunting.
Just remember you're going to get another one probably, so don't over think it. I have had many rifles some I was glad to get rid of and some I would not sell for double their value.
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I think the cartridge determines how long the barrel. I would not want a. 264wm with a less than 26" barrel or 35 whelen much longer than 22"
.Not all cartridges are the same and depending on such factors as the burn rate of the powder has a big effect on barrel length. I never understood why weatherby built rifles chambered in 300 weatherby with 24" barrels. Those rifles would be better with 26" or even 28" barrels.
.Not all cartridges are the same and depending on such factors as the burn rate of the powder has a big effect on barrel length. I never understood why weatherby built rifles chambered in 300 weatherby with 24" barrels. Those rifles would be better with 26" or even 28" barrels.
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I have taken elk with two different muzzle loading rifles.
One is my much storied Hawken Rifle...the other is a antique flintlock from around 1800- 1820.
Granted my shots were not at 200 - 500 yards.
I simply post the above to say that hunting need not be done with the latest and greatest of anything or any type of firearm or gear..
Of the cartridges in the OP I only have experience with two of them...the .30-06 and the .300 Winchester Magnum.
I have taken elk with a .30-06 .
An as issued Remington 03A3 and a Remington 721 with a Leupold 3x9 Vari X 1 scope.
Both rifles favored a 180 grain Remington Core-Lokt cartridge.
Ranges where in the ones stated in the OP.
Again...nothing new or overly fancy.
With that said...I ain't against new firearms or scopes...or anything of a high tech / cutting edge tech nature.
Just posting my experience.
In any event....
No matter what rifle and gear that is chosen...
Practice with it...practice with it at the range.
And....
Practice when you are out scouting ...taking a "hunting shot " or two when and where it is safe to do so.
A hunting shot is one where...
You are tired after walking or hunting all day...
In poor light...and or bad weather....
When you are cold..wet ...and hungry...
Off hand or with a improvised rest....
Not under the controlled conditions at the rifle range.
if you have good shot placement...and the proper projectile / bullet...then the elk will be taken.
No matter what is used.
Andy
One is my much storied Hawken Rifle...the other is a antique flintlock from around 1800- 1820.
Granted my shots were not at 200 - 500 yards.
I simply post the above to say that hunting need not be done with the latest and greatest of anything or any type of firearm or gear..
Of the cartridges in the OP I only have experience with two of them...the .30-06 and the .300 Winchester Magnum.
I have taken elk with a .30-06 .
An as issued Remington 03A3 and a Remington 721 with a Leupold 3x9 Vari X 1 scope.
Both rifles favored a 180 grain Remington Core-Lokt cartridge.
Ranges where in the ones stated in the OP.
Again...nothing new or overly fancy.
With that said...I ain't against new firearms or scopes...or anything of a high tech / cutting edge tech nature.
Just posting my experience.
In any event....
No matter what rifle and gear that is chosen...
Practice with it...practice with it at the range.
And....
Practice when you are out scouting ...taking a "hunting shot " or two when and where it is safe to do so.
A hunting shot is one where...
You are tired after walking or hunting all day...
In poor light...and or bad weather....
When you are cold..wet ...and hungry...
Off hand or with a improvised rest....
Not under the controlled conditions at the rifle range.
if you have good shot placement...and the proper projectile / bullet...then the elk will be taken.
No matter what is used.
Andy
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For a first time, one and done rifle you can't go wrong with a 30-06. It's the one all others are compared to for a good reason. I'd want a 24"-26" barrel. You most likely can find a box of ammo for it on the shelf at any gun/hardware store for that dang forgot my ammo moment out in the pucker brush. I like the looks and feel of Walnut and Blued steel but can see the utility of plastic and stainless. As this will be a hunting rifle I wouldn't want a fiddly scope. A nice bright 40mm 4x will be plenty. The key here is to shoot it a lot and get good with it. Good enough so that one shot is a humane kill shot every time. As far as a brand, IMHO they are all good, so look for the features you want rather than just the price point. My Savage Axis 2 will shoot as good of groups as my Browning X-bolt hunter if I do my part. The value is in the use rather than the resale value.
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