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These Spalted maple grips look different than they used to. I guess the fungus is still growing in them? Should I let it continue or bleach or or put polyurethane or? It's dark now so can't get good phone pics. I can't explain why else they look different. Much more washed out grey color than before. Photos with red background is when I got them they had less grey, white background is tonight.
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I've heard teak oil is great for bringing the life back wood on firearms. I've only seen it used on rifle and shotgun stocks but don't see a reason it shouldn't work great for 1911 grips also.
 
I kinda dig the character that is showing in the newest pics personally.

As long as they aren't cracking then I'd oil them and let them age naturally.

You can always get whiter ones if you decide you prefer the look.
 
I kinda dig the character that is showing in the newest pics personally.

As long as they aren't cracking then I'd oil them and let them age naturally.

You can always get whiter ones if you decide you prefer the look.
Definitely replace the grips if they crack. Had a cracked grip on a 1911 commander in .45 once, thought it would be fine till I shot it and the recoil impulse didn't quite feel right and had some pain in my hands where the grip was cracked. New grips immediately remedied all discomfort.
 
These Spalted maple grips look different than they used to. I guess the fungus is still growing in them? Should I let it continue or bleach or or put polyurethane or? It's dark now so can't get good phone pics. I can't explain why else they look different. Much more washed out grey color than before. Photos with red background is when I got them they had less grey, white background is tonight.
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If they are not sealed, then natural oxidation is happening same as with something like Tennessee red cedar that goes from a rather pink look to brown over time. Looks like the open sap grain area is going dark and the other is yellowing some but may just be the lighting difference of the two different times of pictures. Could also be from skin oil/dirt buildup filling the pours. If you like the lighter look then go ahead and bleach, then seal with linseed oil and maybe a flat or semi lacquer or just a sanding sealer.
 
If they are not sealed, then natural oxidation is happening same as with something like Tennessee red cedar that goes from a rather pink look to brown over time. Looks like the open sap grain area is going dark and the other is yellowing some but may just be the lighting difference of the two different times of pictures. Could also be from skin oil/dirt buildup filling the pours. If you like the lighter look then go ahead and bleach, then seal with linseed oil and maybe a flat or semi lacquer or just a sanding sealer.
Thinking more about this I think you are exactly right. Just like a fence turns grey over time unless it's oiled or protected. I think I'll bleach it and then seal with polyurethane. I'm thinking I'll test oil based poly on the back to see how amber it makes the wood and if it's too amber I'll use water based which shouldn't change the color.

Here is a rotted fence remnant that's probably 40-50 years old with no treatment of any kind that I put bleach (oxacylic acid) on then pressure washed. Looked like darn near new wood. So the grey can be removed I think.
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I'm glad they aren't alive!
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Tried the oxalic acid and it didn't do anything even after 20 min. So I said bubblegum it it and put some rub on polyurethane which should keep everything as is in terms of greying (except makes it more amber).
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Tried the oxalic acid and it didn't do anything even after 20 min. So I said bubblegum it it and put some rub on polyurethane which should keep everything as is in terms of greying (except makes it more amber).
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Cool, now get out there and spray the rest of that moss and algae coated fence with 60 Seconds outdoor cleaner, give it a light pressure washing, let it dry, then take an old hand-pump pressurized weed sprayer-tank and spray it down with an outdoor sealer/stain like Thompson's Water Seal or Cabot's.... ya lazy bum!

;)
 
Cool, now get out there and spray the rest of that moss and algae coated fence with 60 Seconds outdoor cleaner, give it a light pressure washing, let it dry, then take an old hand-pump pressurized weed sprayer-tank and spray it down with an outdoor sealer/stain like Thompson's Water Seal or Cabot's.... ya lazy bum!

;)
That was just a test an old crap fence for a deck and other fence. It's rotted beyond repair. The other fence turned out nice but I think deck will wait until next summer.
 

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