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OK so from what I am reading. You guys all say buy the book for specific bullet manufacturers. Am I correct? If 308 is where I would like to start so what manufacturers do you guys like or recommend?
Not necessarily. Each manufacturers book has about 50-200 pages in the front that literally goes over a lot about reloading. So which ever you buy, there's a good chance there is plenty good info in the front befor you get to individual calibers.

As for bullets, it's hard to say. When I loaded for 308 I was doing so for shots to 1000 yards. Money was not a concern. I did as everyone said and started with 168s and about 3 powders. I loaded in .25 grain increments and shot about 200 rounds of various 168s with those three powders. All did not do well enough in my eyes. All were grouping at just under 1" or slightly above 1" at 100 yards. None did any better at 200 yards.

I decided to try 155s and bingo. That's what my rifle liked. I shot about 300-400 rounds of different powders and bullets and seating depths.

I ended up finding a good load that got me close to .5" groups at 100 yards consistently.

That was the load I took to 1k.

Ironically it all went bust the first time I bought a box of Hornady Superformance 165s that pretty much matched my hand loads and made me kind of upset!

That's reloading though.
 
Right now my Tikka likes 175 gr and I'm gouping where they all touch at 100 yards. IMG_0627.JPG 100 yds

IMG_0712.JPG This one is at 300 yards
 
Go buy any load manual. Actually read the first 100-200 pages. This section literally will give you a lot of info, after that it's all calibers and recipes.

Hit me up anytime you have a question.
Me too...open invite to my inbox the help desk is always open. I have a stinking library. That reminds me I need to get my lyman manual back it's out on loan.

@SKrueger you won't blow yourself up. @Certaindeaf has been loading for years and still has at least 3 fingers on each hand and one eye. Just follow the directions and don't be afraid to ask questions. You're going to love it. It's a very gratifying endeavor and it will keep your head in the game.
 
The advice about keeping track of which powder you are using is some of the best you'll get, a lot of accidents are caused by someone charging a rifle case with pistol powder, if you only have one kind of powder out at a time that won't happen.

I take one canister out at a time, if I switch, the powder in the hopper goes back in the can and only then does a new can come out.
 
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The advice about keeping track of which powder you are using is some of the best you'll get, a lot of accidents are caused by someone charging a rifle case with pistol powder, if you only have one kind of powder out at a time that won't happen.

I take one canister out at a time, if I switch the powder in the hopper goes back in the can and only then does a new can come out.
Yep 1 powder on the bench. I also leave the empty primer box for the particular primers in use on the bench untill they are gone or the leftovers are put away, and the jar or box of bullets I am using right there also. It wouldn't be good to put a heavy for caliber bullet over a hot light for caliber charge and find out later:eek:.
 
I started reloading in 1980. 308 is a great caliber to start with. For a bolt gun
you can increase accuracy by neck size only and not full length resized. Over the years
I have acquired several reloading manuals. Sierra manual at the bottom of each
chart is a "Accuracy Load" which is always a good starting point. I like the One Book/
One Caliber books. Reprint of all major bullet and powder manufactures.;););)
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Loadbooks USA 308 Winchester Reloading Manual - MPN: 308 Win
I got some good results with 168 SMK and IMR 4064. Full length resized
load for my M1A. Savage Model 10
5 shots at 100 yards. I need some better glass for this Savageo_O
DSC00082.JPG
DSC00083.JPG
 
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I like Ackley's book also. I'm loading Sierra 168gr HPBT Matchking for precision shooting. For practice loads 150gr SSP. I've also loaded Nosler 180gr partitions for hunting elk.

BTW, I bought some of those sabots for .308 and worked up loads for Sierra (edit: .22cal) 55gr Spitzer... howling out at close to 4000fps. :eek: Accurate enough for 'yotes but not for chucks unless close in.

Weirdly enough I put a few grains of Red Dot in a case, some dacron, and a 32cal ball. Fun shooting but so dirty that it's not worth the cleanup. Not just the bore but the entire breach too. :rolleyes:
 
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The advice about keeping track of which powder you are using is some of the best you'll get, a lot of accidents are caused by someone charging a rifle case with pistol powder, if you only have one kind of powder out at a time that won't happen.

I take one canister out at a time, if I switch, the powder in the hopper goes back in the can and only then does a new can come out.
Excellent advice.:):p:D
 
You reloading notebook may be your most important book. Keeping track of the load combinations as well as brand and type of primer and notes on your brass and prep will go a long way toward evaluating loads. This might seem a little anal, but if you number your notebook pages, you'll have a good reference for your chrono results, and be able to find that one particular load that had the magical results.
 

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