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I've been looking into the possibility of changing my routine of Hoppe's #9 followed by Hoppe's Gun Oil, and came across this study a fella did.

This was super impressive to me, and I thought someone else might benefit.
Results of gun care product evaluation - The Firing Line Forums

From other research I've done (I lost track of all the places I've gotten info from, sorry!) I've decided on Hoppe's #9 followed by Hornady One Shot HD-Extreme on all sprayable surfaces, and Hoppe's Gun Oil in the bore applied and wiped dry once per month (I live 5 minutes walk from the beach, so better safe than sorry with massive humidity and salt air). And if metal fouling appears to be a heavy problem at any point, throw in a Kroil step after the Hoppe's #9, with the possibility of another round of Hoppe's after, and Isopropyl Alcohol before applying oil (if I don't end up being too lazy).

Hope this helps someone, and mass respect for Diy-Guy from The Firing Line for his extensive study.

-Mike
 
I've seen that test before...what a great job and makes me reconsider my choice of
Militec-1, but I still have about 12oz left :D
 
I prefer stripping the surface down first with wax and grease remover then hitting the lower groups and bore areas with brake cleaner/gun scrubber then let dry and remove excess film before applying either frog lube on the slides/rails and on the outer of the barrel surface I apply a different lube to protect against pitting and doesn't leave a residue.

Wax and Grease remover really pulls the carbon and other bits out completely clean leaving you a fresh layer to apply oils/lubes to keep guns ultra smooth.
 
:s0013:



I've used BreakFree CLP since '86 on everything from M16's, 60's, 203's, 1911's, M9's, MP5's, Mk19's, Glocks, S&W's, Ruger's... in Central American jungles, Southern U.S. swamps, European winters.... blah blah blah with nary an issue even once.

None of us are "operators", few of us run tens of thousands of rounds through our kits, even fewer expose their kit to more than an afternoon of plinking targets....the frakin' things aren't made of sugar, just wipe the blood and piss offa them and rub on whatever frakin' CLP tickles yer bits already!!


Class dismissed. :rolleyes:
 
Last Edited:
Just because something hasn't "failed" doesn't mean it can't be better. People shouldn't poo-poo everything they see just because they don't know about anything wrong with what they're doing.
 
I've converted to Hornady one shot from Eezox, but have deep concerns that it may screw up stainless steel. (google SCC, Stress Corrosion Cracking)
 
Now I must say that the supplemental postings have only served to cause me to be even more curious! I now have MORE questions now than the original post, which demonstrates the value of a well participated forum!!

My questions are:

1) While I do love a good milkshake, WHERE exactly is this YARD that I am required to show up at for which to receive said milkshake?

2) While I do enjoy a good and thorough TEACHING, how much exactly will this charge be?

3) Do I have a MONEYMAKER as well? And if so, where is it located?

Thank you kindly! And to the original topic, I would have to say Froglube...and banana oil...

Rick Shaw
 
Most traditional solvents are Ammonia based, and for good reason, it freakin works! As to lubes, there has been WAY more development in the Synthetics then every thing else, so its a really good idea to look closely at what all these additives are doing or what they can do to your firearms! There was a huge push for teflon lubes, but those have proven to not be as good as every one thought! Same with the Lithium Based lubes and Graphite lubes, each has it's benefits, but they also have proven to have issues! Choose wisely Grasshopper!
 
Agreed. I knew some of that before researching a bit and found more and more. I finally decided on Hot Shot for its performance in that test, and because It doesn't have PTFE, and because I'll be using Hot Shot products for reloading anyway. I decided against the Frog Lube because I dislike when there's extra difficulty added, and their recommended heating the parts, the fact that it's a coating, and that they say to remove excess lube, you have to run the solvent all over again...not my idea of a good time. I'd rather spray on Hot Shot to exterior surfaces and then reapply Hoppe's Gun Oil to the bore once a month.

The Hoppe's #9 cleaner, I'll probably never stop using. It's not the best at anything, but it does do everything, and that's good enough for me.
 

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