LF Gunsmith to push in a rear sight plate on a Ruger MK3 - preferably in Vancouver

[aasbra]

I've seen instructions from sight manufacturers suggesting removing material from the bottom, and also from the sides. I've done both in different applications when installing dovetail sights or dovetail filler blanks. The key with either method is to go slow, keep testing the fit, so you don't remove too much. I generally remove material slowly with a small triangular file (if removing from the sides) or with a stone/fine file on the base, taking measurements with calipers periodically during the process to determine how much needs to be removed, and also trial fitting.

I stop removing material when the sight will slide in the dovetail slot by hand (without force) about half way, from the right side to left when sliding it in. Once the sight being fitted will slide in about half way, I tap it the remainder with a plastic or brass drift and small hammer.

If your sight plate has a set screw to secure to the dovetail, I would ask the manufacturer of this optic mount how they recommend fitting it (assuming there were no instructions provided).

 

[Koda]

I went thru this years ago, I even bought a sight pusher.... the idea was once I had a sight pusher I could change my sights to try our whatever I wanted.
What I learned is its not pug n play and after 2 pistols I now refer to gunsmiths for all my sight work. It can be done if you get the right sight with the right slide cut where minimal to no hand fitting is needed, but most times the sight maker will machine their sight a tad oversized so they can fit any slide.

 

[Joe13]

I went thru this years ago, I even bought a sight pusher.... the idea was once I had a sight pusher I could change my sights to try our whatever I wanted.
What I learned is its not pug n play and after 2 pistols I now refer to gunsmiths for all my sight work. It can be done if you get the right sight with the right slide cut where minimal to no hand fitting is needed, but most times the sight maker will machine their sight a tad oversized so they can fit any slide.

I have so little to no need for the tools to do this that I am inclined to agree with your wisdom.

Unlike a lot of materials, it's damn difficult to add more if you take to much off.

I'm honestly leaning towards keeping it on the rail and see how I like the dot on it. I've only ever used them on rifles and it doesn't feel natural on a pistol with the 100 rounds I put thru it today but it seems to be the thing so maybe I'll get used to it.

Shooting irons for 42 years now so I have a lot of history to work against.

And the adventure continues

 

[Alexx1401]

I have so little to no need for the tools to do this that I am inclined to agree with your wisdom.

Unlike a lot of materials, it's damn difficult to add more if you take to much off.

I'm honestly leaning towards keeping it on the rail and see how I like the dot on it. I've only ever used them on rifles and it doesn't feel natural on a pistol with the 100 rounds I put thru it today but it seems to be the thing so maybe I'll get used to it.

Shooting irons for 42 years now so I have a lot of history to work against.

And the adventure continues

How much is that base plate? If it was me? It would depend totally on cost. If the plate is not pricey I would fit it myself the way others suggested. figuring if I screwed it up I could write it off. If it costs more than I was willing to risk playing with it I would either pay a pro or send it back. Again based on how bad I really wanted to use it vs cost of having it fitted by a pro. From the pic showing it was able to start into the dovetail looks like it would not be hard to take off just enough to make it slide home. I use layout fluid when I do something like this. A felt marker will do the same. Mark the part, push in as far as it will go by hand. Look at where its binding, work some off and repeat. All in risk vs reward.

 

[Koda]

How much is that base plate? If it was me? It would depend totally on cost. If the plate is not pricey I would fit it myself the way others suggested. figuring if I screwed it up I could write it off. If it costs more than I was willing to risk playing with it I would either pay a pro or send it back. Again based on how bad I really wanted to use it vs cost of having it fitted by a pro. From the pic showing it was able to start into the dovetail looks like it would not be hard to take off just enough to make it slide home. I use layout fluid when I do something like this. A felt marker will do the same. Mark the part, push in as far as it will go by hand. Look at where its binding, work some off and repeat. All in risk vs reward.

This is what Id do.
But from the pics he might be inserting it from the wrong side. That alone might solve the issue. Might.