Iver Johnson' .38 Top Break

[f8lstnr]

Was curious if anyone could help me identify exactly what year my gun was manufactured? Also what ammo is recommended? And Finally what is the market value of this particular model is. The serial number is H96894

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[Andy54Hawken]

This is probably a Iver Johnson "Safety "Automatic" revolver.
The safety automatic feature is a transfer safety bar along with automatic ejection of the cartridges when the revolver is broken open
These were made from about 1894 to about 1941.
Calibers were .32 S&W and .38 S&W...the ".38 S&W" here is not for .38 Special....
But for .38 Smith and Wesson.

As for value...
Well....I think that they are a neat design...as did lots of other folks back in the day , since the design was commonly copied and sold.
That issue...along with the fact the most revolvers of these types saw a lot of abuse and or neglect.....
Means that dollar value and or finding a buyer is low.
Bore condition , overall parts condition , barrel lock up and grips....as in condition of the original grips all will play a role here.
It appears as if your revolver has replacement grips...as well as being possibly buffed / polished.
I would guess a value of $150 - $250 + / - a bit either way depending on who is looking at it...and how bad they want it.
Andy

 

[orygun]

I don't know much about it. but it's a neat lookin revolver.

 

[MissouriMurf]

This is probably a Iver Johnson "Safety "Automatic" revolver.
The safety automatic feature is a transfer safety bar along with automatic ejection of the cartridges when the revolver is broken open
These were made from about 1894 to about 1941.
Calibers were .32 S&W and .38 S&W...the ".38 S&W" here is not for .38 Special....
But for .38 Smith and Wesson.

As for value...
Well....I think that they are a neat design...as did lots of other folks back in the day , since the design was commonly copied and sold.
That issue...along with the fact the most revolvers of these types saw a lot of abuse and or neglect.....
Means that dollar value and or finding a buyer is low.
Bore condition , overall parts condition , barrel lock up and grips....as in condition of the original grips all will play a role here.
It appears as if your revolver has replacement grips...as well as being possibly buffed / polished.
I would guess a value of $150 - $250 + / - a bit either way depending on who is looking at it...and how bad they want it.
Andy

Hey, Andy, I've inherited the 38 cal 5-shot Iver Johnson (US Revolver Co) revolver (in pretty good shape overall, all original parts) and the Serial Number on the trigger guard is 28183. Can you direct me where I can ascertain the approx. year of its manufacture? Pure curiosity on my part. I can disassemble the handle if I need to find another "serial" under there. I plan to have an "expert" look it over and I'm also curious if this baby will still fire! (I even have some old bullets for it!)
Mary

 

[CountryGent]

Welcome @MissouriMurf. This resource may help you. Cheers.

 

[MissouriMurf]

Great! Yes, that helped. I now know my gun was manufactured between 1909 and 1919.
Thank you, CountryGent!

 

[CLT65]

Those little top break revolvers were ubiquitous around the turn of the century, and typically very inexpensive. It's also a fairly weak design, hence the low-powered chamberings.

The earlier ones were made for black-powder cartridges. The improved the metallurgy when the transition was made to smokeless powder, so if you want to shoot it, it's important to determine whether your gun is a black-powder or smokeless-powder model. It's not readily obvious but there are ways to tell. There are various websites with photos and explanations, but I forget which ones.

Added: I see you've got a date. Yeah, that should be a smokeless powder gun.

 

[MissouriMurf]

Those little top break revolvers were ubiquitous around the turn of the century, and typically very inexpensive. It's also a fairly weak design, hence the low-powered chamberings.

The earlier ones were made for black-powder cartridges. The improved the metallurgy when the transition was made to smokeless powder, so if you want to shoot it, it's important to determine whether your gun is a black-powder or smokeless-powder model. It's not readily obvious but there are ways to tell. There are various websites with photos and explanations, but I forget which ones.

Added: I see you've got a date. Yeah, that should be a smokeless powder gun.

Thanks, CLT65, for the helpful info. It appears the old box of Lubaloy bullets I have are indeed "non-corrosive priming-smokeless powder" ammo. Thanks for noting my revolver is a "fairly weak design," as that was a primary concern I had. Consequently, if I ever have someone break in when I'm home, my best go-to will be my trusty Remington 870 shotgun. (Unless I part with serious cash and buy the 357 of my dreams!)