Help with converting .300 BLK to 5.56

[Member 5605]

Sorry. I'm on the upper bandwagon.

15 seconds to switch from .300 to .223/5.56.

On a side note: .300 BO offers NO advantages for deer over .223/5.56. I had a .300BO round penetrate from chest to bubblegum and it never expanded. Shot from straight on. Sold the rifle the next week.

 

[American123]

I recently bought a 300 blackout AR. The 300 ammo is very expensive. I've googled on how to make my 300 able to shoot 223 and or 556. All I can find is how to make 223/556 into 300 and most people say all you need is the barrel. Is this true for 300 to 223/556? If not then what else would I need?

No offense, but someone who appears as inexperienced as yourself regarding the AR shouldn't consider messing with a barrel swap.

Get another complete upper from Palmettostatearmory.com for $200-$300 and be done with it.

 

[JRuby]

Recommendation get different colored mags - 1 color for 5.56 and another color for 300BO. You will be able to tell from across the room whats in what magazine and should make life safer. I have a friend who does this with his.

 

[osprey]

Sorry. I'm on the upper bandwagon.

15 seconds to switch from .300 to .223/5.56.

On a side note: .300 BO offers NO advantages for deer over .223/5.56. I had a .300BO round penetrate from chest to bubblegum and it never expanded. Shot from straight on. Sold the rifle the next week.

What projectile did you use? It sounds like you had bullet performance issues rather than an issue with the 300 blk chambering. Tac tx bullets have worked well for me with the blackout. I get your frustration though, I put down the bow and started rifle hunting 35 years ago after failing to recover an animal in a rainstorm. I have since picked the bow back up with different criteria on when to shoot and when not to.

 

[Mygrainman]

Sorry. I'm on the upper bandwagon.

15 seconds to switch from .300 to .223/5.56.

On a side note: .300 BO offers NO advantages for deer over .223/5.56. I had a .300BO round penetrate from chest to bubblegum and it never expanded. Shot from straight on. Sold the rifle the next week.

The advantage is legality... you cannot hunt deer with .22 caliber bullets.
Expansion really depends on bullet design and weight. They develope new and better projectiles all the time. You just have to shop around. .300bo has similar ballistics as a 30/30 which has killed more deer in North America than all other calibers combined.
(I just made that stat up, but seems legit)

 

[Member 5605]

The advantage is legality... you cannot hunt deer with .22 caliber bullets.
Expansion really depends on bullet design and weight. They develope new and better projectiles all the time. You just have to shop around. .300bo has similar ballistics as a 30/30 which has killed more deer in North America than all other calibers combined.
(I just made that stat up, but seems legit)

In Oregon you can. I guess I should have been more state specific.

22 cal allowed if centerfire.

What projectile did you use? It sounds like you had bullet performance issues rather than an issue with the 300 blk chambering. Tac tx bullets have worked well for me with the blackout. I get your frustration though, I put down the bow and started rifle hunting 35 years ago after failing to recover an animal in a rainstorm. I have since picked the bow back up with different criteria on when to shoot and when not to.

Spitzer, 150gr at 2200fps.

 

[osprey]

In Oregon you can. I guess I should have been more state specific.

22 cal allowed if centerfire.



Spitzer, 150gr at 2200fps.

What brand bullet? Some of the foreign stuff that is adverstised loaded with soft points is pretty hard and not suitable to hunt with at 300blk velocities.

 

[Member 5605]

What brand bullet? Some of the foreign stuff that is adverstised loaded with soft points is pretty hard and not suitable to hunt with at 300blk velocities.

If I'm not mistaken it was Speer. Handloads.

 

[Jonnyuma]

If we're buying full uppers, I'd suggest taking a look at JSE Surplus custom uppers. You can get one as built or as stripped as you want... you don't have to pay for anything you don't want if you've got spare parts on hand or would be replacing them anyway. Last one I got was a .223 Wylde without flash hider, BCG, gas block, or handguard... saved some dough by not paying for "take-off" parts.

 

[osprey]

If I'm not mistaken it was Speer. Handloads.

Speer hot cor are supposed to be good to expand down to 1550 fps or so. Maybe they do not? On paper they look suitable though. Bottom line it was a problem with bullet performance not the particular chambering of the weapon. Many deer have been harvested with the 300blk and I would not let the failure of one type of bullet sour me from the 300 blk as an effective 0-200 yd deer cartridge.

 

[Crazyeye24]

If you want the 300BO for hunting, keep it and buy a 223/5.56 upper. Check out classicfirearms.com, I've seen Bear Creek Arsenal complete uppers for $199 in 223/5.56 and 7.62x39.

 

[BigDanS]

If I'm not mistaken it was Speer. Handloads.

I have a .300 BO rifle that shoots SST's sub MOA and I love it, but the SST's are too hard and need to go faster if they are to expand. I used the SST's on a pig hunt and it went straight through. The .300 BO shines with softer 110 gr bullets softer 125's or with 220 gr sub sonics.

I too say get an entire upper. While swapping out a barrel isn't hard, it would be darn inconvenient in a situation where you needed to grab your gun and go for a hunting opportunity.

IMHO

D

 

[EPS]

Buy a PSA UPPER for 5.56 for 245 bucks .
Good to go just push the take down pins out and your done .
The PSA plemish uppers come with a bolt carrier .
And charging handle.

 

[EPS]

PSA plemish uppers look into it lol

 

[EPS]

Psa on sale now 179 bucks.

 

[titsonritz]

Buy a PSA UPPER for 5.56 for 245 bucks .
Good to go just push the take down pins out and your done .
The PSA plemish uppers come with a bolt carrier .
And charging handle.

PSA plemish uppers look into it lol

I bought this upper for $199 with free shipping, a couple weeks prior I bought a complete BCM lower from a member here, I have multiple sights on hand so I threw on a Colt M4/A4 Detachable Carry Handle, that put's me right at $400 for this AR.

I had planned to make a cutout for a while and was getting set to look for and piece together anything cheap I could lay my hands on, burnt out barrels, unwanted old furniture, $25 Anderson blem lower, it didn't matter, then I saw this deal and decided to push the easy button instead. i'm still going to chop it up but first it is going to go through at least one class and probably more.

Here are a few first thoughts:

1. The charging handle and A2 flash hider are el'cheapo knock-off garbage, comparing them side by side to my Colt versions the quality difference is readily apparent. Both are easy to replace, I will not for this adventure.
2. The carrier key staking is super weak and pretty much worthless, I'm doubt Grade 8 Hardened Fasteners were utilized nor was HPI and MPI QC proofing. I would recommend anyone with a PSA upper replace the carrier key screws with Ned Christiansen's OCKS and properly secure them with one of his MOACKS, again, I will not for this adventure. To be on the safe side, I'd install a quality bolt rebuild kit on it and remove the unknowns.
3. Even with everything lubed up it is still pretty gritty, nowhere near as smooth as my Colt, BCM or SIONICS uppers. We'll see a 1000 rounds in a couple of days will smooth it out or choke it out.
4. I have not removed the FSB, but knowing how things are, when do I bet I'll find no finish under the FSB and an oversized gas port. That said, I know there is no minimum and maximum for port sizes. There is MILSPEC correct and there are others. The correct size for an M4 carbine gas system is .063 inches. A 20" rifle is .093. There is no spec for a middy, but most quality companies with a clue make them from .076-.080.
5. It has a triangular hand guard end cap, IMO middys should should be round, but BCM does the same thing

Bottom line, I'm not I'd would want one for duty use and therefore would not recommend it for that purpose. For a cheap plinker, sure go for it, just know what you're getting into

I did take it out, it went through 180 rounds without issue but it is super blasty as I assumed it would be. While I have not measured it, it obviously has a Stormy Daniels sized gas port. I was going to run it the carbine course but decided against it due to this. I'll continue to plink with it until it goes "under the knife"

 

[EPS]

I bought this upper for $199 with free shipping, a couple weeks prior I bought a complete BCM lower from a member here, I have multiple sights on hand so I threw on a Colt M4/A4 Detachable Carry Handle, that put's me right at $400 for this AR.

I had planned to make a cutout for a while and was getting set to look for and piece together anything cheap I could lay my hands on, burnt out barrels, unwanted old furniture, $25 Anderson blem lower, it didn't matter, then I saw this deal and decided to push the easy button instead. i'm still going to chop it up but first it is going to go through at least one class and probably more.

Here are a few first thoughts:

1. The charging handle and A2 flash hider are el'cheapo knock-off garbage, comparing them side by side to my Colt versions the quality difference is readily apparent. Both are easy to replace, I will not for this adventure.
2. The carrier key staking is super weak and pretty much worthless, I'm doubt Grade 8 Hardened Fasteners were utilized nor was HPI and MPI QC proofing. I would recommend anyone with a PSA upper replace the carrier key screws with Ned Christiansen's OCKS and properly secure them with one of his MOACKS, again, I will not for this adventure. To be on the safe side, I'd install a quality bolt rebuild kit on it and remove the unknowns.
3. Even with everything lubed up it is still pretty gritty, nowhere near as smooth as my Colt, BCM or SIONICS uppers. We'll see a 1000 rounds in a couple of days will smooth it out or choke it out.
4. I have not removed the FSB, but knowing how things are, when do I bet I'll find no finish under the FSB and an oversized gas port. That said, I know there is no minimum and maximum for port sizes. There is MILSPEC correct and there are others. The correct size for an M4 carbine gas system is .063 inches. A 20" rifle is .093. There is no spec for a middy, but most quality companies with a clue make them from .076-.080.

Bottom line, I'm not I'd would want one for duty use and therefore would not recommend it for that purpose. For a cheap plinker, sure go for it, just know what you're getting into

I got a blemish upper from PSA a few months ago.
For 199 you can't even see the blemish unless you look really good at it small little scratch on barrel.

 

[titsonritz]

I got a blemish upper from PSA a few months ago.
For 199 you can't even see the blemish unless you look really good at it small little scratch on barrel.

The blemishes are indeed small and nothing I would not put on myself through normal use, but "fit and finish" are the last things one should be worried about on an AR. Proper materials, an actual QC process and correct assembly techniques win the day. I realize that may be lost on folks that think a framing hammer, 2x4, screw driver are all you need to put together an AR, but it is true.

 

[DB is Here]

I'd get a 5.56 upper...way easier. For the mags, I wrapped my 300 BO mags with White duct tape.

 

[EPS]

I'd get a 5.56 upper...way easier. For the mags, I wrapped my 300 BO mags with White duct tape.View attachment 507552

My 300 BLACK OUT is FDE so I just bought a few fde MAGS and painted a few .
So I would not get them mixed up.
Brown gun gets brown mags