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So my coworker got a shotgun from his grandpa and it will fire but not operate the bolt.
He can manually cycle the next round in and fire it though.

Its an older gun, which looks recoil operated, with a shell stop lever/switch on the side.
I couldn't find a model number on it but it was one of the humpback style receivers.
Anyone have any advice on how to get this old browning running?
 
I had one from the 50's and it did the same thing when it was dirty and it didn't take must sand or dirt.
Had to carry a can of WD-40 with me when I was hunting geese out of a pit to give the bolt a good hosing down to keep the sand out.
 
So my coworker got a shotgun from his grandpa and it will fire but not operate the bolt.
He can manually cycle the next round in and fire it though.

Its an older gun, which looks recoil operated, with a shell stop lever/switch on the side.
I couldn't find a model number on it but it was one of the humpback style receivers.
Anyone have any advice on how to get this old browning running?
Spec-K, I have a remington 11-48 which is the same style of shotgun. When I got mine it wouldnt cycle either. I first found a youtube vid that showed the complete break down of the gun plus the bolt. Then I cleaned and brushed the crap out of everything. Then I put it together with lots of oil, not to the point of dripping (except the recoil spring). Then I shot some heavy and light loads threw it. Then cleaned it really good after I went shooting. After that I just lightly oiled it and it runs great. Got to keep that recoil spring well lubed.
 
If it's a Browning Auto 5, then the friction ring must be adjusted to the shells power loads that are being used.
A very light coating of 30wt oil is generally used on the ammo tube.
Don't shoot hvy game loads when the friction ring is set to light skeet loads, because you'll damage the gun, but if you're shooting light loads and it's set up for hvy loads, then it won't cycle correctly.



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