Heavier gun lube?

[ivan_drago]

Trust me guys, I've been all over the Internet and this forum, tried many brands myself. Age old question...
Which gun lube in your opinion sticks better to metal even after you wipe it? I want to leave a light sheen. Don't want it dripping and don't want to use grease. Any of you lucky to find something that works like that?

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[Andy54Hawken]

If I am in need of a heavier gun lube...
I use warmed up deer tallow on my firearms...both antique and modern.
Andy

 

[Stomper]

I've used Breakfree CLP since the mid-80's…. it's been fine.

 

[SCARed]

Just use grease and Karate Kid that stuff. Wipe on. Wipe Off.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

A light coating of RIG gun grease works well for many firearm applications.
Andy

 

[FATAL125]

I've landed on Shooter Lube after trying soooooo many different products.

Only thing I use now for cleaning and lube.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Trust me guys, I've been all over the Internet and this forum, tried many brands myself. Age old question...
Which gun lube in your opinion sticks better to metal even after you wipe it? I want to leave a light sheen. Don't want it dripping and don't want to use grease. Any of you lucky to find something that works like that?

Use a dry lube. They are formulated to "adsorb" (think bond) to the metal leaving a slick but dry surface. Some examples are Eezox, ballistol, and a number of ceramic dry lubes.

Personally I use Eezox for cleaning and protection and use small drops of ceratec as a lube (friction modifier) only on spots that show wear (ie shiny or slide surfaces).

The Eezox will remove carbon etc if you let it sit wet for 15 min. Remove the Eezox to leave a slippery dry surface that also resists fingerprints.

The ceratec uses boron nitride nanoparticles that adhere to the metal and after worked in (say by running the action a lot) leaves a boron nitride residue that is "bonded" to the metal. Using ceratec I can get my browning .22 to cycle with 710 fps cci quiet. It won't with any other lube.

For these types of lubes you need to remove previous lubes with alcohol so they can adhere to the metal. Never let it pool or leave it really wet cuz it will turn to a waxy substance which, like wet lubes, attract dirt and carbon etc. they are designed to be applied and then wiped off leaving a slick dry surface.

Ballistol now makes a ceramic lube but i think it's only available in Europe. Here's an old thread on ceramic lubes fyi:

Anybody using ceramic dry lube on their guns?

Seems like this is really catching on in Europe. I noticed several brands using boron-nitride micro particles in their formulations. Even Ballistol has a ceramic enhanced version now in Europe. This hasn't caught on yet in the states but it's just a matter of time imo. Bicycle lubes such as...

www.northwestfirearms.com

Eezox and liqui-moly ceratec are available from Amazon. Most Napa stores also have ceratec.

 

[WAYNO]

RIG.

 

[Towhead]

Lucas stuff is good.

 

[oremike]

I'm in the Breakfree CLP camp.

 

[Bobbygun]

Anyone tried that new popular stuff - Hawk Tua?

 

[arrowshooter]

Lucas stuff is good.

This . I've been using the green stuff for quite sometime with great results on moving parts, wipe -on -wipe -off barrels, receivers, bolts, ect. is for Hoppes. It's all going to come down to exactly which parts you want to wipe it off of. Most any gun oil will leave behind a film when you lightly remove the excess.

 

[FATAL125]

Anyone tried that new popular stuff - Hawk Tua?

Just keep in mind... despite what you see and read online that is surprisingly hard to find.

If you are able to track it down it'll cost more than your whole arsenal...

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Just keep in mind... despite what you see and read online that is surprisingly hard to find.

If you are able to track it down it'll cost more than your whole arsenal...

Interesting word choice there....
Andy

 

[washagonian]

EEZOX

Apply after cleaning firearm. Let sit for 30 minutes. Wipe off.

Leaves microscopic film that protects from corrosion. It also has some lubricative properties. But the film is dry so it doesn't attract lint or dust or whatever.

You can use it for the full cleaning process OR apply (rub down the metal parts of your firearm with it) after a full cleaninng process using your favorite cleaning chemicals (CLP, Ballistol, Hoppes, etc.).

TWYLALTR

Cheers

 

[Joe13]

Anyone tried that new popular stuff - Hawk Tua?

Only my wife….

Crop I hope she never sees this


I'm only posting in here so it's in my watched threads because I need to to this with quite a few guns that hardly ever get used.

 

[Joe13]

I've been using REM-Oil and soaking the firearm.

Then use a compressor to blow it all off and into the little spaces. I aim it down at a dog training pad to soak it all up and toss it.

 

[washagonian]

I'm only posting in here so it's in my watched threads because I need to to this with quite a few guns that hardly ever get used.

That's what lead me to find EEZOX.

I wanted some type of protection for firearms that I don't use often.

Even though I keep my storage cabinet warm and dry, I wanted something to provide extra protection.

EEZOX fit that role nicely.

Also, it leaves a nice luster to the metal - even my Gen 4 Glocks with the sucky OEM flat black/gray finish that looks like a scuffed shoe if you barely rub it against anything.

My Glock Gen 3 pistols with the frying pan finish look absolutely brilliant with EEZOX.

Cheers.

 

[washagonian]

Also, I didn't speak to it directly, but wiping down your INTERNAL parts (barrel, guide rod, recoil spring, metal trigger assembly and other internal parts) with EEZOX will protect them WITHOUT the mess of grease, and won't attract dust or lint or other particulates.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

.

Also, I didn't speak to it directly, but wiping down your INTERNAL parts (barrel, guide rod, recoil spring, metal trigger assembly and other internal parts) with EEZOX will protect them WITHOUT the mess of grease, and won't attract dust or lint or other particulates.

First thing I do when I get a new gun is clean everything I possibly can with alcohol. Then treat every damn thing with Eezox (and wipe it off). Even if I never get to some of those surfaces for a very long time I know they are lubed and protected from rust also they are less likely to attract and hold contaminants in the future.