Good quality electronic calipers?

[Catfishmoon]

My general rule towards tools is the more use it gets, especially if I earn my living with it, the higher quality I purchase. I have a lot of Snap-on mechanics tools, but I would not pay the premium for them as an average homeowner.
Same goes for my carpentry/woodworking tools. Mine are American or Japanese, but you can get better from Germany or Sweden...
It is simply a pleasure to work with quality tools that will last multiple lifetimes if you can afford it...
Heck, this discussion seems a bit like discussing which 1911 should I buy?
The entry level, those with a solid reputation or a premium custom my grandson would like to inherit.

 

[Phred]

As a retired machinist I agree, Mitutoyo and Starrett. You have to be careful buying a "reasonably" priced Mitutoyo as there are a lot of Chineez copy's that are crap. I know it's hard to pop for an expensive digital but they are worth it. Dial calipers are a thing of the past, only as accurate as your eyes are, and prone to operator error. I use my digitals for a lot of things other than reloading, so I appreciate being able to read it in tenths of a thousandth, or fractions, or millimetres. Things you can't do with a dial caliper.

 

[thorborg]

The short of it, and to address your question, I think I paid less than 50 bucks for mine. It may even been a Harbor Freight i don't recall. It works well though, have had it three years now so got my money worth from it. Handy things, but be sure to buy a metal one, not a plastic one.

On the long side, I have a Mitutoyo 6" and Starret 12" both about 50 years old now and still work to specs. I prefer my dial / analog calipers for anything requiring the best of me, but, I have and use a cheap digital much more of the time, partly to save wear and tear on my quality tools, usually, if I don't need to work nats asz , (specially wood working) but really helpful in quickly finding material sizes of wood, metal, bar stock, plastics etc from the scrap box since every craft medium come in a myriad of measure methods and it easily switches from metric to decimal and fractions saving me time looking conversions up on the wall chart. .I also keep a blister pack of batteries common, cheap 2032 tacked to the wall that last a decade if not used for that inevitable disappointment in the middle of a project. I am fortunate that I have several other digital things in the shop that take the same batteries. (as well as many optics.)

Two thing about digitals, they are no less open to reading interpretation than a analog, both as intolerant to the varied pressure of your thumb and so require an education of "feel" to be reassured a correct reading.
More perplexing to many, might be that the reading shown is absolute, and unlike analog, you can not easily see if your plus or minus the reading your looking for, which can help in your decision making.
Example.if not a crude one)
You have a digital caliper that will read fractions. You need a 3/8 wood dowel, the digital reads 49/128ths on the dowel you found. Were you to see the 3/8th (or .375) mark as you could on an analog, you would easily know you were close enough to the mark so it may work as is, (being over by only 1/128th) or, a little sanding will make things right.
Instead you think; WTF?, then, run the caliper in or out to find what fraction is close that you can recognize and think about.
On mine, I then switch to decimal as i recognize many fractional equivalents.
(On decimal only dial caliper, it helps to have memorized the major fractional equivalents in decimal form, 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 " to mentally compute from there.
Both types have many benefits, as well as deficits, according to your needs, and or ability.

 

[Zechariah]

I have mitutoyo and starret stuff for machining but if I'm going on the cheap Fowler make good machining tools.

 

[JuglansRegia]

I am still using a Mititoyo set from the late 80's it came in a nice wood box with a 0-1" micrometer, the calipers look like hell but the still measure 1.000" on a guage block

 

[PDXbiker]

Just reading the Amazon reviews that noted the current Mitutoyo Dial Calipers are not from Japan but have Made in Brazil on the dial.

 

[Freshman]

Mitutoyo are the gold standard for digitals. I have a 6" of their standard digital, and a 12" IP67 model. There is no comparison to the cheaper Chinese stuff. Nice and tight. Jaws have little flex in them when measuring out on the tips vs. the flats. They are also very smooth. All said and done, Mitutoyo digital is what I recommend most often for new machinists. Their stuff is rock solid. If you end up deciding to go with these, make sure you don't end up with a Chinese copy. They are everywhere and are nothing like the real deal. I have limited experience with their dial calipers, but they seem almost an afterthought. I was not impressed.

Starrett is not what it used to be. I recommend avoiding their new calipers (digital and dial). If you can find an older used dial set (model 120, says "American Made" on the dial, all lettering/numbers are stamped as opposed to etched) those are good to go. I have one, and it is a joy to use, though a little rougher than most nicer digital calipers. These are probably my favorites, but only because I think they are cool. They are not as practical as the Mititoyo digitals.

I have not messed with the newer Browne and Sharp dial calipers. I have an older set (given to me by an old boss of mine) that were probably nice when brand new, but they are pretty worn now. I have borrowed a newer digital "Dura-Cal" set, and they were awesome. Comparable to the Mitutoyos, but slightly more expensive. The nice thing about these is that they offer an option for a round depth rod. Very useful for measuring depths of smaller holes. I would very much like a set of their IP67 "Twin-Cals", but I have too many tools as it is. On the flip side, I tried a set of their "Value Line" digital calipers, and they were hot garbage.

I have also messed around with the Insize calipers. They seemed good for the money. Not quite as good as Mitutoyo. As far as budget options, there may be others that are better, but this is a company that I have had hands on experience with.

My go-to at work for the past 6 years has been a Mahr "Marcal" 6" digital that I bought used on Ebay. They are IP67 rated, have a round depth rod, have smaller flats on the ID jaws for more accurate hole measurements, are pretty tight and VERY smooth. They are apparently made in China, which caught me off guard when I found out how much a new set goes for.... because of this, I'm not sure I'd recommend them over a Mitutoyo set. That being said, I like them and I trust them.

I have used a few other "budget" calipers (SPI, Fowler, Nuline to name a few). They are still usable, but in one way or another, they don't stack up to the more expensive brands. All said and done, most calipers can and will give you accurate measurements. Some are just easier and more pleasurable to use.

 

[Mikej]

I would very much like a set of their IP67 "Twin-Cals", but I have too many tools as it is.

Reading everything you were saying and it all sounded spot on. Then I got to this ^^. Now I must question your judgment.

 

[tcass]

I bought a used Mitutoyo electronic for $75 and a used Brown and Sharpe dial for $30. I also first bought a Harbor Freight. There is just something about using a quality tool that makes the difference to me. They just feel better. The Harbor Freight Pittsburg is accurate enough but chews up batteries. It also feels like a piece of crap.

 

[arakboss]

I have a General electronic digital caliper. I use it for less-than precision work, but it co-witnesses exactly with a quality micrometer. For whatever reason, the battery is always dead after periods of non use. In fairness to the product, I just went out and tried the electronic caliper mentioned, and yep, the battery was completely dead.

I agree, for important/precision work, nothing will replace my micrometer. But more often, a dial indicating or digital caliper is sure a lot quicker.



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I had the same problem and I read that most of the budget calipers continuously draw power even when display is off. These days I remove battery when I am not using them. There are also longer lasting batteries but they are harder to find. Can't remember the chemical make up of the longer lasting ones.

 

[arakboss]

I had the same problem and I read that most of the budget calipers continuously draw power even when display is off. These days I remove battery when I am not using them. There are also longer lasting batteries but they are harder to find. Can't remember the chemical make up of the longer lasting ones.

Silver oxide batteries are suppose to be long lasting. The lithium and alkaline button batteries won't last as long as the silver oxide batteries.

 

[HighlandLofts]

When reloading we are dealing with extremely high pressures in some calibers. .you see the guys talking about batteries failing on these electronic calibers. When the batteries start to fail I'm sure you will be false readings.
Dial calibers are mechanical, no batteries to go dead.

Kind of a comparison I flew back here to Seattle December 14th. One of the electric escalators that takes you to baggage claim was broken do and there was to guys working on it to fix it.
The regular set of steps were just find, always there to serve you, never to break down.

When I got back into reloading I had a Hornaday electronic scale, adventually they started going berserk. I'd throw a load of powder and weigh it on that electronic scale.
Pick up the charge, replace it back on the scale and it weighed different then what it just weighed.
Took it off again with the same result.

Dug out my Ohaus beam scale (mechanical scale) weighed the same power that I was getting mixed weights on the Hornaday electronic scale.
Took the pan of powder off the scale & replaced in bacon the Ohaus beam scale and it read the same weight every time.
That was it for me on electronic instuments
for reloading.
I trust mechanical over electronic.

My brother bought & used a harbor freight set of electronic calibers. They were the biggest POS I have ever seen. They would give different readings on loaded cartridges.

When it comes to reloading I will spend the extra money and buy higher quality equipment to check my rifle & pistol ammunition.
Reloading equipment isn't where you want to cheap out on. One high pleasure eff up you could get injured or killed.
Saving a few bucks isn't worth it if a over pressure case goes haywire.
Every year people get ruined guns and some sustain injuries and occasionally some meet death.

 

[aasbra]

Bought a nice Mitutoyo digital caliper a few years ago. My Dad was a machinist, so I appreciate having good tools available when needed. Haven't regretted my decision. When you consider the higher cost of a quality tool, when properly used and cared for over a lifetime is use, it really doesn't seem that expensive to me vs. the frustration of having something that may not work reliably or consistently when you need it. No issues with battery life or functionality for me. I also have a good quality, dial caliper (not digital) that my Dad gave me which works fine. I just prefer the digital. One nice feature on the digital is converting from inch to metric with the press of a button.

Have a set or two of cheaper ones also that I take along/leave in my car or truck for something not as critical (like to the hardware store for measuring a particular fastener). I generally leave my nicer ones on my reloading bench/in my shop tool box for when I need them.

That said, beware of knockoffs if your going this route. Sometimes a "good deal" on an attractively priced, quality name brand tool isn't what it appears to be.

 

[HighlandLofts]

Good deals like the Chinese knock off Leopold scopes sold on Wish.com.

 

[homeuser6]

"vernier dial"
that would be interesting.

 

[HighlandLofts]

If you can still line the lines up.

 

[DizzyJ]

Bought a nice Mitutoyo digital caliper a few years ago. My Dad was a machinist, so I appreciate having good tools available when needed. Haven't regretted my decision. When you consider the higher cost of a quality tool, when properly used and cared for over a lifetime is use, it really doesn't seem that expensive to me vs. the frustration of having something that may not work reliably or consistently when you need it. No issues with battery life or functionality for me. I also have a good quality, dial caliper (not digital) that my Dad gave me which works fine. I just prefer the digital. One nice feature on the digital is converting from inch to metric with the press of a button.

Have a set or two of cheaper ones also that I take along/leave in my car or truck for something not as critical (like to the hardware store for measuring a particular fastener). I generally leave my nicer ones on my reloading bench/in my shop tool box for when I need them.

That said, beware of knockoffs if your going this route. Sometimes a "good deal" on an attractively priced, quality name brand tool isn't what it appears to be.

This right here.
Had a buddy go with a cheap set of Chinese calipers to start.

After having to re-do a bunch of rifle rounds due to the calipers misreading, he wound up with a quality set in his hands.

I'm pretty sure he won't be going back.

 

[bbbass]

I have cheap digital and cheap dial (Frankford Arsenal). But I only use it for pistol OAL when setting up the press. I don't load rifle any more, so no need for more than those.

 

[RVTECH]

That was it for me on electronic instuments
for reloading.
I trust mechanical over electronic.

Kinda where I am as well.

I once considered an electronic scale when I broke an Ohaus beam scale but after reading many reports of inconsistent and/or failed electronic scales I sent the Ohaus in and they repaired it free of charge.

A good friend of mine is a machinist and he is of the same attitude with electronic tools as well. He has an electronic caliper - but only rarely uses it for quick, 'rough' measurements, etc.

 

[Alexx1401]

When reloading we are dealing with extremely high pressures in some calibers. .you see the guys talking about batteries failing on these electronic calibers. When the batteries start to fail I'm sure you will be false readings.
Dial calibers are mechanical, no batteries to go dead.

While the dead batteries are a PIA, they do not change the readings on these. The display just starts to fade. If power cuts out completely then comes back you may lose "zero" and have to re set but, that is easy to see. The simple answer now days is keep some spare batteries now that they are so cheap. As others have mentioned the cheap units give the same results as the ones that cost many times as much for all the ones I have tried. Few can get repeatable results with an expensive pair any better than with a cheap pair as "user error" is so easy with these. I normally use dial for rolling ammo mainly because I have them already from past work and no batteries. I keep a couple digital for when I want to convert something to metric or SAE and am too lazy to do it with a calculator. They are almost always dead when I get them out but have a card of the batteries all the time so no big deal to me. For the kind of accuracy some are seeking here they really need a Mic. For rolling ammo though if checking case length and OAL any caliper will give anyone the info they need.