Ebay suspension parts?

[CamoDeafie]

I'm cheap; because money is going to things that have priority.... so... I was browsjng Ebay... I wonder, does it matter where the parts are from, and price? The 2001 Kia Sportage needs a suspension overhaul, and locally thats in the thousands of dollars if using Les Schwab (struts, springs, shocks, bushings) versus less than half that much using Ebay and local auto parts stores, and doing as much of it myself as humanly possible (probably would need to invest in coil spring tools and jack stands if not renting).

The main expenses from Ebay would be the struts and coil springs, but local would provide the bushings and spring cups likely.

Kia chassis have around 143,000 miles; likely time to overhaul the suspension.

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[gunnoob75]

What you will run into is that the parts will be generally usable and serviceable; but the fit will be tough and alignment afterwards may not be correct because of it.

Small things like elongated mounting holes to fit more vehicles, thin material around the pinch clamp, a poor fit around the end of a strut. Increased or decreased travel in the strut to be more compatible with other vehicles is common also, and can lead to balljoints flexing too far or even CV's separating inside the boot.

With all of that said, early 2000 Kia's are easy to do. Nearly every part of the suspension is simple. You just need to have the experience to know what to look for; CV's fitting properly, struts clamping properly, clearance to "rock" the new strut into place, seating depths and so on.

 

[hatchj]

I wouldn't buy vehicle safety equipment on ebay, especially the "ebay special" type stuff.

Stick with something from rock auto or similar in my opinion. Moog is good and not expensive if they make parts for those.

 

[CamoDeafie]

What you will run into is that the parts will be generally usable and serviceable; but the fit will be tough and alignment afterwords may not be correct because of it.

Small things like elongated mounting holes to fit more vehicles, thin material around the pinch clamp, a poor fit around the end of a strut. Increased or decreased travel in the strut to be more compatible with other vehicles is common also, and can lead to balljoints flexing too far or even CV's separating inside the boot if the bump stop is warn down (Which they usually are.)

With all of that said, early 2000 Kia's are easy to do. Nearly every part of the suspension is simple. You just need to have the experience to know what to look for; CV's fitting properly, struts clamping properly, seating depths and so on.

Its got a solid rear axle, and no front drive axle (2wd base model). So from what I can see; the front suspension is a strut type with coil springs, while the rear is stupid simple coils with shocks... the front is likley the most headache inducing job, and would be the first. There seems to be a MOOG set specific for the Kia Sportage on Ebay, and the cheaper ones shows pictures to be just like what Autozone shows on their photos... mind, there are no other Kia vehicle models with the exact same struts as far as I can tell. 1995-2002 Sportage is practically stand alone from the next generation Sportage which went to a larger unibody Hyundai Santa Fe platform, at least in the US/Australia markets. There is the Retona which is a civilian version of the Korean military jeep based on the 2 door 4x4 Sportage frame/drivetrain. Otherwise, the frame and drivetrain might be similar to the older Mazda Bongo series of light trucks/vans but I can't find any information on parts compatibility

 

[gunnoob75]

You will do fine. I'm sure there's a hundred youtube videos showing the process also.

There are no other Kia vehicles with the exact same struts; that is the problem. You can't make cheap parts if you're only making it for one vehicle. So generally they will take an already manufactured strut that is "Close enough" and -maybe- change it slightly or just call it "Good enough." It's a quarter inch too long or short so they use a larger hole in the pinch bracket so you can still get the two cross bolts through the strut and the knuckle. This creates a softer hold and may not stay aligned long.

I'm not saying this type of thing is guarantied, just that it's common. A lot of customers bring me ebay or aftermarket parts and I'm happy to put them in; but I will not warranty it nor the labor. These are just the issues I have had with cheap aftermarket parts from Ebay and even RockAuto. Your mileage may vary!

 

[CamoDeafie]

I'm not saying this type of thing is guarantied, just that it's common. A lot of customers bring me ebay or aftermarket parts and I'm happy to put them in; but I will not warranty it nor the labor. These are just the issues I have had with cheap aftermarket parts from Ebay and even RockAuto. Your mileage may vary!

Yeah; Les Schwab wanted to charge me $500+ for just one strut with a Moog part number...

So if I order the Moog front strut pair, that should be better than the pair that doesnt say who made it? The coil springs would be Moog as well.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

schwabs uses crappy parts and charges a LOT for them. in my opinion, when youre replacing steering/suspension or brake parts USE GOOD PARTS. Moog makes good aftermarket stuff.

BTW im an ASE and GM master technician if that means anything to anyone LOL

 

[shibbershabber]

I have had luck with cheaper stuff... Moog being the most expensive parts Ive gone for.

I rebuilt the entire front end of my Yukon using either Moog or MevoTech parts from RockAuto.com ... I doubt it will last as long as the originals I replaced... but I got it all for around $300 or so.

Check out rock auto too.

 

[jbett98]

I would purchase a set of alignment cam bolts when you change your struts. They make it a lot easier to align your vehicle to proper specs.

 

[DirectDrive]

MOOG has been good for me.
Last time I was buying suspension parts I found that many Carquest part numbers were re-boxed MOOG parts.

I would buy on Ebay, no problem, but I would seek out name brand parts.

 

[gunnoob75]

Not sure about parts prices but the book shows 4.1hr for both fronts. Both rears are .7hr.

That's $240 of labor for -both- front in my shop. I'd say Shwab is taking you for a ride. The job is simple; under the hood take off the three nuts. Underneath remove the swaybar and crossbolts for the fork at the end of the strut. Simple stuff, you can handle it. I think I can save the manual pages to PDF for you.

 

[s1xty7]

If you're okay waiting for parts to ship, I'd check out RockAuto (
RockAuto). Cheap prices and good selection. They'll even email you when parts for your vehicle are on clearance. Their website isn't the greatest but it's worth the hassle.

Local shops don't usually have name brands and usually charge more for house brands than name brands cost online. Local stores though, like O'Reilly or Autozone, have tool rentals. You pay the cost to replace the tool and get your money back when you return them. I can't count the number of spring compressors I've rented.

Suspension is certainly all doable. Take your time, follow directions, use a torque wrench appropriately, and get an alignment when you're done. You can save a lot of money and still have quality parts.

Good luck!

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

Yeah; Les Schwab wanted to charge me $500+ for just one strut with a Moog part number...

So if I order the Moog front strut pair, that should be better than the pair that doesnt say who made it? The coil springs would be Moog as well.

$500 for 1 moog strut, labor and alignment?!? hmm. i usually replace struts in pairs. they both got the same miles on'm and if ones bad then the others prob not far behind. replace both that way theyre done and youre not payin for a second alignment.

have you tried contacting point S tire in albany? the manager chris is a good guy and garrett, the assistant manager is a friend of mine.

 

[gunnoob75]

use a torque wrench appropriately

Torque wrenches are fine but for struts; an impact gun is final.

Five or six ugga-dugga's should do it.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

Not sure about parts prices but the book shows 4.1hr for both fronts. Both rears are .7hr.

That's $240 of labor for -both- front in my shop. I'd say Shwab is taking you for a ride. The job is simple; under the hood take off the three nuts. Underneath remove the swaybar and crossbolts for the fork at the end of the strut. Simple stuff, you can handle it. I think I can save the manual pages to PDF for you.

$240 for 4.1 is a good deal man. 4.1 at the dealer i work for is like $485.

 

[cigars]

I have had luck with cheaper stuff... Moog being the most expensive parts Ive gone for.

I rebuilt the entire front end of my Yukon using either Moog or MevoTech parts from RockAuto.com ... I doubt it will last as long as the originals I replaced... but I got it all for around $300 or so.

Check out rock auto too.

Rock Auto usually gives you a lot of options as well.

 

[jbett98]

I have a good friend that works at a Point S Tire store in Portland and he allows me to buy auto parts using his name at the Advance Auto Parts store that supplies his tire store.
I save over 50% on pretty much everything in the parts house. That's how much of a mark up there is to the general public.

 

[gunnoob75]

Uploading this was harder than I expected it to be.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

if you take the struts off and take them to a shop, some shops will swap out your springs to your new struts for a minimal cost. if youre replacing a complete strut assembly, theyre not that hard.

 

[jbett98]

Don't use these types.



Use these style strut spring compressor tools.