Drill hole in wall for power supply to exterior camera?

[Bushman]

Great! Remember though if your system does motion active recording, that camera will have 1000 clips/day, which is fine so long as you have another camera pointed in its general direction to record true incursions. That will make your reviewing much easier, and give you a time stamp to check that camera footage with.

I have it set to record 24/7. Came in handy one time when a ball ended up in my yard at a previous house. Reviewed the footage and not only figured out where it came from, but also saw the guy peek over the fence and consider climbing it. Might have seen the camera in plain view in the window watching him and thought better of it. I just threw the ball back over into their yard.

 

[oknow]

If you mount the camera outside and through the wall run a phony wire down the wall under the house so the bg will cut the fake wiring and think they are safe.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Attic to soffet then through flexible conduit to camera. The higher up and out of reach the better.

That's how I would do it here, except I would mount those dome ones under the soffet so nothing is on the wall.

Especially with vinyl siding.

 

[Member 5605]

Especially with vinyl siding.

Or Hardiplank

 

[clearconscience]

I would drill the wall and run it through. Too easy to bypass if it's run to an outside outlet. Makes no sense to me.

Just use some heavy duty caulking when sealing the hole and use conduit so you can easily replace the wires if need be.

I wouldn't necessarily hide the outside cameras. Keep them out of reach but visable.
A camera is more of a deterrent than an alarm sign.

 

[Bushman]

Or Hardiplank

I misspoke earlier, it's actually hardiplank. What's the issue with that in this context?

 

[Member 5605]

I misspoke earlier, it's actually hardiplank. What's the issue with that in this context?

It's hard, lasts a long time unless you have a hole in it (even sealing it it's guaranteed). It actually moved a little like vinyl siding in heat that's why caulking is not advised with proper flashing/backing installation.

Coefficient of Thermal Expansion (COTE) per ASTM E228 is:
• Longitudinal COTE = 6.7X10E-6 in/in ° F
• Transverse COTE = 7.65X10E-6 in/in ° F

The actual information for expansion/contraction. Figure out the run where you do and see if the expansion/contraction will be an issue. Sorry I'm not a fan of drilling through that hard stuff and what happens when it's cold and brittle.

 

[ron]

Penetrate the outside wall and 'fish' it into the attic or crawl space.
Low voltage cable is easy and less exspensive to install than 120 power.
Do the job right and you won't regret. If it is above your skill level
hire an IBEW electrician. I think the fake cable is a bad idea.
So the tweaker cuts the cable thinking he is good to go. Damaging your
house breaking into it. Trashes the house by pulling everything
out of your closets and drawers. The feeling of being violated.
And all you will have is a video of some scum bag? And then the
cops will catch him and he will pay you back for your loss? In what
universe? Most of these home burglars have been in and out
of the justice system for years. Rarely if ever caught and a slap
on the wrist when they are caught.

 

[1911coltguy]

Retired Electrician's two cents here:

1) If you want to catch someone on camera without their knowledge, then by all means mount your camera (s) out of sight or disguised.

2) If you want to possibly deter someone from breaking into your house versus the one down the street without a camera security system in plain sight, then mount your camera (s) in plain sight but out of reach.

For example, on the Microsoft Campus, our security team would mount hidden cameras disguised as smoke detectors every few feet along every corridor and exit point in every building on campus. The World's Richest Man would often take the stairs and walk around the campus without any security personnel around him, but you can be sure, he was watched by many different angles at ALL times.

On the other hand, in the casinos we've done, there are ceiling and wall mounted cameras in smoked domes obviously mounted around every cash exchange point, offering 5-8 different views, monitored 24/7 by security personnel, and captured on DVR that also serve as passive deterrents. Casino employees who handle cash know that they are monitored and recorded from every conceivable angle by security personnel they've never met or associate with.

I would vote that you mount the camera (s) in plain sight, run your low voltage cabling through the soffit and into the attic access if you can and down to your DVR. You can also hire a trained and licensed electrician from this referral service to do it professionally and safely if you need it done right or if you need 120vAC power to your cameras:

Residential Electrical Services

A criminal who wants what you have won't let anything stop him, cameras or otherwise. But the common POS walking up your driveway might turn around if he sees powered cameras pointed directly at him.

 

[mjbskwim]

All I can say is "chain saw"

 

[Caveman Jim]

A lock only keeps out an honest thief.....

 

[CoastRange57]

Type of house and construction makes all the difference. I just had my house resided with Hardibacker and took the opportunity to to put some holes in the house for cable runs. I put them in to pick up power for the cameras on 4 corners of the house, and will tuck the video cables under the new siding overhangs and just paint over it. I don't have an attic in my 1896 farmhouse so that option is not there.

I am not to concerned with perps cutting the cables. If they do they do. Most residential burglaries are more smash and grab type, and they don't care if you have a camera. My cameras will be on layer of security. I will be getting ones that have IR notification capabilities to my phone. I am more concerned about stopping them from getting in than getting a look at them for the snowballs chance in hell they get caught. The cameras will be mounted up high, so if they want to get a ladder have at it.

My alarm system is cellular based so no amount of cable cutting is going to defeat it. I want to get a look at intruders, but stopping them and running them off is more of a priority to me.

 

[Capn Jack]

I picked up power for my motion sensors and security lights by locating them high on the outside wall, between two
studs where there was an outlet on the inside wall. After cutting the mounting holes in the outside wall, I ran a fish
tape up inside the wall at the outlet and captured it with a loop in a wire coat hanger. Then i just pulled a Romex 3x16
down the inside of the wall and tied it into the feed to the outlet. Once that was done, I hooked up my security light
and mounted it on the wall.

The one in the entry, I wasn't so fancy.
I just drilled a hole through the wall into the garage and put a plug on it

My front door has a WEB Based Video door bell with "Cloud Storage" and my house gun has hollow points.