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Do you crimp when reloading for "semiauto" pistols? why or why not!
As said above. But realize that very little resistance at the bottom of the down stroke is plenty of force to take the bell out of the brass on taper crimped calibers. A little too much can deform the case and possibly affect chambering.
 
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I crimp all pistol cases, semi, revolver, every pistol case. And all semi & pump rifle cases.
If I don't have the actual crimp die I use an extra seater die to use as a crimp die.
Once my dies are set they do not get readjusted unless I change the bullets I use.
 
OP, do you understand why you crimp the case on semi-auto rounds?

You need to study why you crimp semi-auto pistol rounds. It does not help with setback. If anything, it reduces neck tension if over done.
 
Pistol and revolver rounds yes.
Taper crimp on semi-auto pistol.
Roll crimp on revolver.

Semi-auto rifle, no.
 
You'd want to roll crimp the 32 S&W Long and .38 Special wadcutter rounds when shot out of autoloaders mainly for increased feed reliability.
 
Let me correct that. I do not crimp Berdan primed steel cased ammo that I reload. No need for it because I don't flare it and the steel is very very tight on the bullet once seated.
 
For me......

I've found that the "taper crimp" will work on my 9mm and 45ACP reloads.

While my .38 special/.357 mags get a "roll crimp".

Note.....
They are usually all available with your chosen brand(s) of carbide 3 die set. In fact.....the manufactures have usually picked out the "correct" crimp die for you.

Oh.....how thoughtful of them.

Aloha, Mark

PS.....the "basic idea" for the crimp is that you don't want your bullets jumping forward with recoil. Or, being forced back into the cartridge case. Yeah....it could play havoc with feeding and proper chambering in semi autos. And, as for the revolver.....well, a bullet jumping forward with recoil could just tie up the cylinder from rotating properly. The bullet being "telescoped" into the case....could just raise pressures to dangerous levels. OMG!!!
 
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