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If you watch the video, he's not using full powder loads to discharge the bullet. He's using a wax bullet with 1 grain of powder behind it. He also demonstrates clearing a revolver using the same method. Would I recommend this method or attempt it, not likely unless I was unable to remove the bullet using a wooden dowel/brass rod technique.Water isn't very compressible. Way less compressible than air. Adding water behind the bullet would actually increase the blockage and cause a more sudden shock to blocking bullet. It may help or hurt the effectiveness of your RSO's method in removing blocking bullet and/or avoiding damage to gun or shooter. I think it changes the method fundamentally. I wouldn't want to be the first to try it.
I'd feel uncomfortable even with the unmodified method without water, as this sounds like it was being done with closed breech guns, not revolvers. In a revolver there is a gap between the end of the forcing cone and the cylinder. I worry that shooting a full powder load into a blocked barrel might cause much more than ordinary amounts of burning powder and hot gas to shoot out that gap and maybe crack or damage the forcing cone or cylinder.
I was a range master for many years for a police department, on the weekends the range was open to the public to use for a fee.I had a 38 special bullet not leave the barrel and now it is stuck in the barrel. This is LAX .38 special ammunition, nickel coated, 158 grain. I've fired over half the can without any issues so the ammo has shown to be generally good? I've put Fiocchi, PMC, and Norma (.357 and .38) through the gun without any problems. As far as I can tell the cylinder timing is fine and it locks up great, and even now I see no visible damage but I'm not an expert; I found some marring and maybe a chip or worn spot on the barrel but that could be because I was looking so closely at the malfunction.
http://www.taloinc.com/ruger-firearms/wiley-clapp-gp100-1752 Here is the gun's product page.
If it matters, it was pretty cold today in the mountains, it was snowing. I clean the gun after every outing -- it was not dirty!
I'm hoping someone can tell me what could have possibly happened here for a bullet to not exit the barrel. If it was simply an undercharged round, the bullet would presumably still leave the barrel and hit low. I tried to ram a cleaning rod in there with no luck, the bullet is lodged tight.
Thanks for any help.
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I've personally had it happen with production ammo, but never with home made reloads (yet)….so I always laugh when people are scared to shoot reloads like the major labels never fek up. happens and really the odds are more in favor of it happening with those producing millions of rounds vs the guy who hand loads 100 rounds (assuming said hand loader is sober and competent )I was a range master for many years for a police department, on the weekends the range was open to the public to use for a fee.
It was not unusual, although it rarely occurred to have a round not exit the barrel and on occasion a pistol would get blown up by firing a another round, fortunately only minor injuries occurred.
The ammo for the most part was name brand ammo, so inferior ammo is produced even by the major manufacturers.
This happen to civilians and police officers.
I was shooting a match before and had a squib round. I noticed the sound was off when fired and it didn't go into battery so the second round was not an issue of possibly firing again. With that said it was a factory round also. I have friends whom reload and have had them but my reloads have never been an issue myself.I've personally had it happen with production ammo, but never with home made reloads (yet)….so I always laugh when people are scared to shoot reloads like the major labels never fek up. happens and really the odds are more in favor of it happening with those producing millions of rounds vs the guy who hand loads 100 rounds (assuming said hand loader is sober and competent )
People "are scared" (and advisedly so) of your or anyone else's reloads.. not their own.I've personally had it happen with production ammo, but never with home made reloads (yet)….so I always laugh when people are scared to shoot reloads like the major labels never fek up. happens and really the odds are more in favor of it happening with those producing millions of rounds vs the guy who hand loads 100 rounds (assuming said hand loader is sober and competent )
Just saying, the odds of a bad round are a lot higher with mass produced runs vs someone loading 100 rounds by hand….not saying people don't try crazy hot loads, use the wrong powder, have a bad scale, double charge, drink while reloading, or any of the other multitude of things that can happen with reloads- just out of the many years I've been shooting the only gun that blew apart in my hands was due to commercial Ammo. I don't currently reload but I've never had any issue shooting others reloads but maybe I'm lucky who knows. It's up to the individual to make their own choices I'm just stating an opinion.People "are scared" (and advisedly so) of your or anyone else's reloads.. not their own.
I wasn't so lucky (perceptive?), I did notice the sound was off but I was dumping it and next couple of rounds separated the receiver and blew the mag apart at my feet. Hand was numb but no damage other then my ego and the loss of a keltec carbine. If it was a steel frame or I didn't have that hogue slip on acting like a rubber band keeping it together id probably have scars from it minimum it was a lot of energy coming my wayI was shooting a match before and had a squib round. I noticed the sound was off when fired and it didn't go into battery so the second round was not an issue of possibly firing again. With that said it was a factory round also. I have friends whom reload and have had them but my reloads have never been an issue myself.
I noted that his propellant charges were small. Maybe the idea of the water is to act as a substitute for a rod, and the light powder charge is the equivalent of a hammer tap? A form of hydraulics?If you watch the video, he's not using full powder loads to discharge the bullet. He's using a wax bullet with 1 grain of powder behind it. He also demonstrates clearing a revolver using the same method. Would I recommend this method or attempt it, not likely unless I was unable to remove the bullet using a wooden dowel/brass rod technique.
Maybe another form of hydraulics might be using an oil of some kind, and a dowel of bore diameter to press it out. As some prople use water to force out Berdan primers. Just an idea. And perhaps a messy one at that. The friction of a stuck bullet might be too much for this to be effective trying to do it at home.which is how 'hydraulics' got invented in the first place.
In the good old days elementary school math class would have prevented this sort of screwy logic.Just saying, the odds of a bad round are a lot higher with mass produced runs vs someone loading 100 rounds by hand…
I'm still wondering why the geezer in the video uses water for his method. I was leery of bulging a barrel by shooting it out "dry" with a full charge. However, now I'm thinking that maybe the idea of the water is that it equalizes pressure in the full length of the bore behind the bullet. Whereas, with bulging ("ringing"), it's obvious that there is pressure concentrated at that point immediately behind the bullet. I'm not a physicist, still wondering.Water isn't very compressible. Way less compressible than air. Adding water behind the bullet would actually increase the blockage and cause a more sudden shock to blocking bullet. It may help or hurt the effectiveness of your RSO's method in removing blocking bullet and/or avoiding damage to gun or shooter. I think it changes the method fundamentally. I wouldn't want to be the first to try it.
Brass rod, brass small mallet, tap slowly from barrel end with Ballistol lubricant. Most likely a low to no powder charge!I had a 38 special bullet not leave the barrel and now it is stuck in the barrel. This is LAX .38 special ammunition, nickel coated, 158 grain. I've fired over half the can without any issues so the ammo has shown to be generally good? I've put Fiocchi, PMC, and Norma (.357 and .38) through the gun without any problems. As far as I can tell the cylinder timing is fine and it locks up great, and even now I see no visible damage but I'm not an expert; I found some marring and maybe a chip or worn spot on the barrel but that could be because I was looking so closely at the malfunction.
http://www.taloinc.com/ruger-firearms/wiley-clapp-gp100-1752 Here is the gun's product page.
If it matters, it was pretty cold today in the mountains, it was snowing. I clean the gun after every outing -- it was not dirty!
I'm hoping someone can tell me what could have possibly happened here for a bullet to not exit the barrel. If it was simply an undercharged round, the bullet would presumably still leave the barrel and hit low. I tried to ram a cleaning rod in there with no luck, the bullet is lodged tight.
Thanks for any help.
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Right. OP's immediate problem is solved. But I'm continuing to read thread to see what others have done in case I ever have this problem. Post 38 is one of the best, and the one I think would be most useful for me. The thread isn't just for OP.Hey guys, reply #35 above is the original poster saying he took it to a gunsmith.