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Alot of why's here and on other posts.....I just kick back and watch the $#!+ show
Why?

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We have to fully case ours up before it can leave the bench.
It's interesting how different ranges have different SOP's based on differing philosophies. The range were I'm a member doesn't allow any cased guns on the line. No guns may be brought up to the line cased. Only one gun at a time on the bench. There are no racks available that might allow people to bring up more than one at a time.

There are lots of rules at ranges because there are a lot of stupid people.
For this reason, the level of control on public ranges must be reasonably high. For both practical reasons and purposes of liability.

My daughter's Winchester Featherweight is a beautifully balanced rifle with its thin sporter barrel. Even the mild .257 Roberts heats that barrel to the "too hot to touch" level with only a couple of 5-round groups.
This for sure. The heft of a rifle barrel certainly will determine cool-down times. I have a Ruger Model 77 Mark II in .223 with the slimmest, lightest weight barrel available. Three or four shots and it needs a cool-down period.
 
Copper would probably be the way to go if it works. But copper will cost a little more.
Your going to want a rod that very closely matches the bore. If its undersized it will soak up heat from where its touching causing the barrel to contract on that side causing a bow. Copper conducts heat very fast (you should try it on a belt grinder it all gets hot FAST)

If you want to try this Online metal's will have what you want and can be pickup in person at Will Call in Portland or Seattle.

A rod 0.25"D 3' long can be had for less then $20.

A tube 0.25" D about the same. Which you could blow air through.
 
If you wanted to go crazy you could get a .3125 rod turn it down to bore diameter assuming a .308 caliber adjust accordingly. Then cut it into sections that will fit into a cooler. Then fill the cooler with Methanol and Dry Ice. This makes a slurry at -110°F shoot a string pull the rods out slide them in the barrel (don't mind the screeching and other ungodly noises) this will cool ypur barrel down real quick.

You would how ever be better off with a can of air held upside down and with a little red hose in the nozzle. At least that would be uniform around the bore.
 
If you wanted to go crazy you could get a .3125 rod turn it down to bore diameter assuming a .308 caliber adjust accordingly. Then cut it into sections that will fit into a cooler. Then fill the cooler with Methanol and Dry Ice. This makes a slurry at -110°F shoot a string pull the rods out slide them in the barrel (don't mind the screeching and other ungodly noises) this will cool ypur barrel down real quick.

You would how ever be better off with a can of air held upside down and with a little red hose in the nozzle. At least that would be uniform around the bore.
You're way, WAY too far to the right of the decimal point of his capabilities.

Think more 'minute of yardstick'.
 
A rod, even near bore diameter will only touch the barrel on the bottom, and then only on the lands of the rifling. Likely less than one square inch of contact.

Doesn't matter how fast it can conduct the heat. It has to first acquire the heat from the barrel before it can conduct it from the contact point to the rest of the rod. And even then, it will only be cooling the bottom of the barrel.

Use air or water.

Bruce
 
Your going to want a rod that very closely matches the bore. If its undersized it will soak up heat from where its touching causing the barrel to contract on that side causing a bow. Copper conducts heat very fast (you should try it on a belt grinder it all gets hot FAST)

If you want to try this Online metal's will have what you want and can be pickup in person at Will Call in Portland or Seattle.

A rod 0.25"D 3' long can be had for less then $20.

A tube 0.25" D about the same. Which you could blow air through.
"If its undersized it will soak up heat from where its touching causing the barrel to contract on that side causing a bow"


I am not saying you're wrong but I have been cooling my barrel with a wet towel laid on the top exposed half of the barrel. The bottom half of the barrel is insulated inside the stock. If that were to cause a noticeable "bow", it's already happened.

Being the stubborn and inquisitive type that I am, I spent the $10 and bought the aluminum 1/4 dia x 4ft long rod. I will test it out today. My belief is that heat in the barrel and the rod will remain relatively constant around the circumference of the materials.

I should know very quickly, whether the aluminum rod is going to soak up heat or not. If it does soak up heat and dissipates it quickly, I will do some further testing with various methods of usage.

Aluminum is much much softer than steel, so I don't expect wear, on the barrel will be noticeable to me. The Aluminum rod can also double as a cleaning rod by using it to push patches down and out the muzzle end the barrel. Some of my commercial cleaning rods are made from Aluminum.
 
Who's bright idea was it to use an aluminum rod anyways. It did get warm when the rifle was hot but I don't think it was soaking up enough heat. It cools off very quickly though.

The wet towel works great as long as it is on the barrel the entire time, including while shooting. From now on wet towel is my go to for barrel cooling.
 

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