cerakote job on new rifle

[JTW]

I just ordered a new savage hs precision and want to get it cerakoted. My question is if I should have the optic rings mounted first or do I take everything in as parts then have them mounted? I plan on doing everything (rifle, stock, bipod, rings) in cerakote. This is my first experience with having a weapon done with cerakote so any other info regarding having it done would also be helpful.

-thanks

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[Orwapitihunter]

If the parts aren't mounted take them in separate.
The guy doing the coating will want to disassemble it anyway.

 

[JTW]

thank you for the help

 

[Straight Shooter]

When we coat a rifle it is 100% disassembled otherwise you will get rust coming out of the seams.

 

[deadshot2]

When we coat a rifle it is 100% disassembled otherwise you will get rust coming out of the seams.

What do you say about masking off the scope rail (picatinny) mount area on a stainless steel action? I prefer to mount "metal to metal" on scope mounts whenever possible, especially for a "tactical" rifle.

 

[Straight Shooter]

I say don't do it. Pic rails are especially prone to trapping water in, around and under them. They benefit quite a bit from being fully coated.

 

[JTW]

all great info thanks

 

[Orwapitihunter]

Deadshot,
With the thickness that Cerakote is applied and the stability of it I don't think you will have any problems.
But...
If you are looking for the strongest most stable union of the rail to the action I would recommend...
1. Upgrade to 8x40 screws
2. Cerakote the rail and action
3. SKIM!! bed the rail to the action with a quality compound like Devcon 10110. Don't use a release agent just apply, assemble, torque, clean off excess.

If you want to remove the rail in the future try and keep the Devcon out of the screw holes. It will be easier if you don't glue them in. Devcon can be broken down with heat (as in heat the rail till it releases) or made brittle with cold (as in freeze it then wack the rail with a wooden mallet).

 

[deadshot2]

3. SKIM!! bed the rail to the action with a quality compound like Devcon 10110. Don't use a release agent just apply, assemble, torque, clean off excess.

If you want to remove the rail in the future try and keep the Devcon out of the screw holes. It will be easier if you don't glue them in. Devcon can be broken down with heat (as in heat the rail till it releases) or made brittle with cold (as in freeze it then wack the rail with a wooden mallet).

That's always been the way I install scope rail/one piece mounts. NOTHING MOVES. Haven't used ceracote yet, mostly just the standard camo paints.

+1 on the Devcon. Just remember that the Plastic or Liquid Steel can rust. The Titanium product is twice the cost but no rust.

 

[Orwapitihunter]

Deadshot,
Looks like you have a handle on it.
Now I have a question. Have you actually seen the Devcon steel rust?
I have heard it on the net, but never actually seen it. Seeing where you are located I'm guessing you would have the straight scoop.

 

[deadshot2]

Deadshot,
Looks like you have a handle on it.
Now I have a question. Have you actually seen the Devcon steel rust?
I have heard it on the net, but never actually seen it. Seeing where you are located I'm guessing you would have the straight scoop.

If you have it on a rifle that gets wet, and you put it away without separating the stock from action to dry it forms a brown sheen on the surface. Since rust is a catalyst that promotes the formation of more rust it can actually pit/rust a steel action/barrel. I've started to just put a drop or two of CLP along the edge of the action on the one carbon steel rifle I own. It displaces the water and prevents the rust. All the rest of my rifles are Stainless and don't get wet unless the wind blows a lot of rain under the firing line shelter.

It's not the biggest issue in the world, just a minor PITA if you want to keep things perfect.