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So I had a SBR of mine recently cerakoted and it turned out great. Unfortunately, driving the roll pin for the forward assist turned out to be more of a b**** than I ever could have anticipated (yes I depressed the FA while I was driving the roll pin)
I ended up completely fubaring a roll pin punch and ended up having to settle for a roll pin that was installed about 10-15% short of where it should have landed. Fortunately it was enough to do what is was supposed to... but I ended up having to grind of the rest of the roll pin off and in the process removed some of the cerakote from (fortunately) the bottom of the FA protrusion. I could leave it as it is because it's not very noticeable but my OCD is kicking in big time and it's all I can think about.

Is there any paint that works for a touch up in an obscure spot? Doesn't have to be perfect but I'd like it to be tough enough to not chip and flake from using the gun. I've read Rustoleum, or auto paint. The area affected is smaller than a dime.
 
So you recommend Krylon? Any particular type of Krylon? Again, just want it to be tough enough that it wouldn't easily come off from rubbing or normal use.
 
Thanks for the info. If you don't mind me, is there a specific reason you don't like cerakote?
It doesn't work very well. It wears/chips pretty quick in my experience. I don't like paying for it when I can do the same thing with a spray can and touch it up whenever I want (I'm cheap. Same reason I stipple my own guns). Plus it can mess with tolerances. I would much prefer anodizing or nitride.

But at the end of the day I simply don't like spending money on something I can do myself that has the same effect.
 

Available in a spray can or as show, for brush on. Bakes on, available in the usual color tones. Came up as 10% at Brownells.

Gun Kote.jpg
 

Available in a spray can or as show, for brush on. Bakes on, available in the usual color tones. Came up as 10% at Brownells.

View attachment 1849287
That stuff works well, but it is not the same as Cerakote. It's KG Gunkote.

I used to spray a lot of aluminum parts with KG and it works well when the part is preheated, sprayed thin with an airbrush and baked on. I'm not sure it would work well as a touch-up.
 
That stuff works well, but it is not the same as Cerakote. It's KG Gunkote.

I used to spray a lot of aluminum parts with KG and it works well when the part is preheated, sprayed thin with an airbrush and baked on. I'm not sure it would work well as a touch-up.
Seems like an option. The pen you linked is supposedly for fine engraving, as I read it.
 
The Cerakote "C" series might work, it's the air cure formula... Remember to clean, maybe tape it off and try to scuff up the area, clean (brake cleaner) works good.
Next time use a starter punch...
 
The Cerakote "C" series might work, it's the air cure formula... Remember to clean, maybe tape it off and try to scuff up the area, clean (brake cleaner) works good.
Next time use a starter punch...
Use a starter punch you say? Any other suggestions?

Screenshot_20240323_185203_Instagram.jpg
 
Plus it can mess with tolerances. I would much prefer anodizing or nitride.
Possibly what happened in my situation. The cerakote may have made the hole too tight to drive the roll pin all the way to flush. I had no problem drilling and pinning my gas block to the barrel so I'm guessing the cerakote had something to do with that.
 
Possibly what happened in my situation. The cerakote may have made the hole too tight to drive the roll pin all the way to flush. I had no problem drilling and pinning my gas block to the barrel so I'm guessing the cerakote had something to do with that.
Possibly. I've worked for a higher end builder in the AR world and they actually took into consideration the thickness of the cerakote when building/machining the lowers/uppers.
 
Depending on the color...

Krylon or Rust-Oleum high heat (engine block) works great. Especially if you apply a little extra heat during the drying process.

Harbor Freight also has a chassis spray paint called Iron Armor. I haven't personally used that yet, but I've heard good things.
 
If vanadium steel is too thin it can be brittle. For punches, I like a 'slightly' softer steel so it can be bent back into shape without breaking.
Any suggestions? Mine were from Brownells. Wheelers if I remember correctly but I've had them for years so might be mistaken..
 

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