Cerakote DIY

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With the right tools you can do the job like a pro. And these tools you can use forever , no throw away crap from harbor freight. I purchased a Devilbiss startingline touch up gun, charbroil 30" electric smoker , and I built a backdraft paint booth. The spray gun is everything, .08-1.0 tip and the gun paint adjustment is easy to put the perfect atomized the paint perfectly. Make sure you purchase a good water/oil seperator for your compressor.

Here is my first rifle I just finished and plan on doing many more.. tungsten metallic
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OP
KeepnitReel
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IMG_0881.JPG And the smoker, take all the crap out and seal the vent system on it and your ready to go. Holds 300 plus degrees very easily. This makes doing long barrels and long handguards much easier. Amazon has these smoker cheap and Prime shipping. Do waste your whole weekend building some locker box water heater element bs oven!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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link to the smoker please, nice job by the way, been coating with duracoat for a couple of years now, wanting to do cerakote also but the baking has always got in the way. Youll also find that perfect prep leads to amazing outcomes. I also use an airbrush with 2 oz bottles, makes getting in the all the little cracks easier without overspraying everything else.
 
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With the right tools you can do the job like a pro. And these tools you can use forever , no throw away crap from harbor freight. I purchased a Devilbiss startingline touch up gun, charbroil 30" electric smoker , and I built a backdraft paint booth. The spray gun is everything, .08-1.0 tip and the gun paint adjustment is easy to put the perfect atomized the paint perfectly. Make sure you purchase a good water/oil seperator for your compressor.

Here is my first rifle I just finished and plan on doing many more.. tungsten metallic
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Looks DAMN nice. You could no doubt get the money back doing some of these for others.
 
OP
KeepnitReel
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OP
KeepnitReel
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Almost went with the binks, just like the stainless parts on the Devilbiss since cerakote requires never to touch plastics with the mixed paint. The atomization I get with this devilbiss is pretty unbelievable. Binks makes a really good gun, try to stay away from their plastic gravity cups feeds though.

Looks good, OP.
I got a brand new Binks and guns I should test out
 
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Yeah. I'm sure a rebuild kit is available for it. The Binks units were the rave. Still very highly rated.
there's probably cobwebs on the dang thing...lol
 
OP
KeepnitReel
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Ya they have been the Ferrari of HVLP for a long time and if I remember they invented the LVLP gun.

Yeah. I'm sure a rebuild kit is available for it. The Binks units were the rave. Still very highly rated.
there's probably cobwebs on the dang thing...lol
 

Velzey

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Looks great! What type of blasting media did you use prior to coating? And the all important degreasing. What type of solvent did you use?
The smoker will also work great for degassing prior to coating!
 
OP
KeepnitReel
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120 aluminum oxide blasting @ 90psi for metal parts, 60 psi for plastic or poly parts. Pre-gassed at 300, acetone bath prior to pre-gas and after pre-gas. Built a stainless tank for the acetone bath, big enough for a 24" barrels. Blow off acetone immediately with clean air. If you let the acetone air dry or evaporate it leaves a weird trail what looks like a moisture dry trail. (If that makes sense) It also helps that all my parts are brand new and never used.

Looks great! What type of blasting media did you use prior to coating? And the all important degreasing. What type of solvent did you use?
The smoker will also work great for degassing prior to coating!
 
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Wish you were close. I'd chat with ya about the possibility of doing my new set.
You mention media blasting with aluminum oxide. I'll assume this is performed on anodize? Or raw?
 
OP
KeepnitReel
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It works on all coatings, I do purchase all my 80% lowers in raw billet and my uppers as well. Some people say you only need to etch the coating on your parts, I blast them to the raw, but it's easy when you have a compressor putting out 25cfm at 90psi

Wish you were close. I'd chat with ya about the possibility of doing my new set.
You mention media blasting with aluminum oxide. I'll assume this is performed on anodize? Or raw?
 
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I was thinking your application was on the raw. I'm just beginning the looking into getting my anodized set done. I've a hard time justifying the application of any coating will adhere well without etching. Then, is it similar to say, scotchbriting (<word) paint where the "tooth" diminishes if said topcoat is not applied in reasonable time? As I said, my looking into the process has recently, just begun. I like to know exactly how the process works. Type 3 HC anodize is hard to beat for durability/longevity. Also, my compressor in my shop is compared to non-potable drinking water to paint application.
 

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