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If the case head is still there this works great

AC375477-C4A0-44CB-8CEF-BA2D1B896624.jpeg 5593C3CE-E7B8-4B33-B9F5-033A61D86CEB.jpeg
 
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I've had this happen with necked cases several times. It is much easier to drive the case out of the die if the primer is not in the case. However, that is not always the situation.

If the case has been primed, you have to be VERY careful, because driving it out with a drill bit and a hammer can cause a small explosion that can cause damage to your hand or your eyes.

Always wear glasses when reloading is a very safe practice for this reason.

In addition to using a drill bit sized just smaller than the case neck and driving it out, you can also try taking the die out of the press and turning it upside down in a vise. Then you can carefully attempt to "coax" the case out using side cutting pliers. You will be very lucky to get it out in one piece; likely the base can come off first. Then you are left with the upper portion of the case buried in the die body.

Then you have to take a bigger bit and CAREFULLY insert the bit using an electric drill to spin or coax the case out of the die body.

This is why a stuck case puller is a very wise investment. If you are not patient and careful you can scratch the inside of the die body that will be forever part of your reloading "fingerprint".

I've been in your shoes three times and I then invested in a case puller. It is also a good practice to use a little bit of case lube when sizing any necked cases.

Don't feel embarrassed to be in this situation. Most reloaders have been in your shoes even though they won't admit it.
 

po18guy

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Are you de-priming as you resize? If so, you loosen the lock nut atop the depriming stem and thread it all the way up to get it out of the way. The RCBS and other kits do fine. Follow the instructions to the letter and you should have it out quickly and without damaging the die (have you priced dies lately?).

If your dies allow you to remove the entire decap rod and the nut or cap which holds it all in place, you can then insert a long drift punch until it contacts the base of the stuck case and simply tap it out with a hammer. Make sure that your punch will go clear through the case mouth and make contact with the case head itself. If the punch is too big to enter the case mouth, you risk crushing the neck and buckling the case outward, crimping it even more tightly into the die body. Of course, it is the best to have the die in place in the press as you do this, so that it will be a solid foundation to work from.

No suitable punch on hand? Many hardware stores or tool supply houses carry "Drill rod" which are hard, high-carbon steel rods which are often used to make drills and taps. Hard stuff. One of the correct diameter to enter the top of the die all the way to the to the bottom of the case would do well. Drill rod would be least likely to bend as you drive the case out of the die. You may need a carbide or at least bi-metal blade to cut the drill rod.
 

jjfitch

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Better question what lube should I use? I have cleaning lube..
What cartridge are you resizing?

Bottle neck and some straight wall cases will need sizing lube. This is not the same as regular lube. Lyman, Hornady and Dillon sell case resizing lube when used properly will prevent stuck cases. There are also recipes for making your own but I recommend starting with tried and trues lubes.

Smiles,
 
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