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I remember watching one you tube video where the guy said "if you can't get it in the hole, spit on it" and wondering how many young AR builders are hawking lugies on the receiver not understanding what "facetious" means :D
 
Literally everything this class teaches can be found on youtube videos.

LOL, I've seen pretty worthless crap on youboob, even most of the good ones still have errors in them as mentioned by DirectDrive regarding the Brownells vids. They are no substitute for real instruction.

What's your take on what's taught? From the standpoint of someone who has read a dozen books on AR's and built close to fifty of them is it worth driving 700 miles and spending the time to take the class?

I am not an expert nor would I call myself an armor but I am also not a novice. My fear is I would commit a bunch of time and money to sit through a workshop of basic information I don't know what I don't know but I know enough I have been able to solve any functional issues that have ever presented themselves to date.

What are your thoughts?

I have personally never attended one of Will's courses so I can't comment on the specific content, but I can tell you he is the real deal, which if you've read his bio I'm sure you know. I do know people that have taken it multiple times and have said it is worth it each time. He has also had a one day AR builder course and this is not it, this is an actual Armorer Course. From what I under stand the diagnostic portion alone is worth ever penny. Also, AZ law enforcement personnel receive 16 hours of continuing education credit for attending his courses, so that tells you something right there.

Is it worth the 700 mile drive? I guess only you can answer that, I know I was planning a trip a Tuscan before I ran into this opportunity. I would say you would be in for some review as will I, but I'm sure there is plenty he can teach us and I look at it like the next jump in my education on the subject and I'm already way beyond using a pipe wrench, 2x4 blocks and framing hammers on my builds.

I don't know what part of Idaho you are in but he is also doing a course in Kent, WA I believe in May if that is closer to you or just schedules better.
 
Yep. It would take some time and money to attend some armorers courses. Just sit in the back and try to learn good stuff. Also try to understand the courses are being presented to help.

The only few U Tube videos that I tried to watch were interesting to say the least. The most difficult thing for a novice to learn and understand is how to separate the wheat from the chaff.
 
You figure he has hands on tens of thousands if not hundreds of thousands of weapons, I'd say he has it down. We'll be using the correct tools in the correct manner. For example, example I know he doesn't use that Brownells' hokey puck and taper pin punch to remove the FSB like Brownells' vids (and a whole lot other's) show.
 
For an AR lower, you don't need much more than a hammer. Hammer, flat head screw driver, and a punch, or failing that, a skinny torx head screw driver :rolleyes:

A solid bench and some wood blocks helps too. Castle nut wrench if doing adjustable stock.

Never assembled an upper, but I dont have a vise or torque wrench right now.
 
I did not attend his course. It would also be non appropriate for me to make suggestions when I was not there. However ... understand there are older "old school" techniques I was taught before the dawn of time. Some old ways are better?

Old way. Old school. The barrel gets locked into those mundane old fashioned aluminum barrel vise blocks. We used outdoor indoor carpet hunks to pad the barrel from the aluminum. Locked down tight. The upper receiver floats and is hand steadied.

You need a good strong solid work bench and a good heavy bolted on 5-6 inch smooth jaw bench vise. Good overhead lighting. A tall suitable stool. Soft background music of your choice. Decaf Iced Tea. Good tools. Correct stuff. Quite an assortment needed.

That pesky barrel nut gets torqued up to about 40 to 42 pounds adjusted torque. You must reduce the swing based upon the distance from the barrel wrench to the end of the certified click type torque wrench. YOU DO NOT TORQUE TO THE NEXT HOLE.

There is more. You only torque up to 40-42 pounds. No more. You will crack uppers. Also the barrel gets put on DRY. No lube. No way do you have the option of going anywhere from 40 to 60 pounds of torque. 80? No way. You dress and square the upper receiver.

That barrel nut goes on dry. No lube at all. NO LOCT TITE. Too easy to get false wrong low torque readings and feelings. You will over torque that barrel nut. You will eventually or quickly crack upper receivers.

If that pesky OEM type barrel nut with all the many dinky tiny gas tube holes does line up exactly correct using 40-42 pounds of adjusted torque, AND IT WILL NOT AT FIRST, you remove the barrel and slightly dress/square the upper receiver front flat. A tad.

Polish off a bit. Aluminum black touch up. Rinse. Then try it again. Off and on. On and off. Eventually that pesky gas tube will install without touching the barrel nut or the gas key. Fun. Easy. But time consuming. Do not bend the tube. Another way of doing it.

Edited for space and time. OK! WHAT IS A TORQUE ROD? I DO NOT KNOW! Yikes!! Oh my Gawd! Somebody tell me please! :)

Equal paragraph lengths futile but fun. :) Each time you edit the post for corrections the paragraph lengths changes. This is a dumb game but fun to do.
 
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I attended Will's class at TJ's Gun Sales in McMinnville last year.
I was a complete newbie to AR's, and was still able to keep up with him throughout the class (OK- so maybe I asked lots of dumb questions). There was plenty of "hands on" time with your own rifles.

His knowledge is impressive - down to which brands are prone to which issues, and how to spot problems BEFORE they occur. He spent time overseas "in theater", including as a Contractor, specifically working on AR's.
 

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