A real dilemma with buggered threads.......Help?

[Mikej]

In the process of changing a water pump on my 1984 GMC 1500 pick-up it made sense to change heater and radiator hoses at the same time. Seeing as the alternator, water pump AND power steering pump all need to be removed to get the water pump off I figured that seepy 36 YO power steering pump pressure hose ought to be replaced too. What the heck, do the return hose too. It came time to put everything back and it would seem the threads in the steering box for the pressure hose are buggered. Turning the nut in by hand for 1+/- turn and it stopped. I put a wrench on it and in a 1/4, (or less?) it bound up solid. I thought threads were wrong on the Thai produced hose, so I tried a different hose, from china rolleyes. Same thing. After that the original hose wouldn't even screw in. I didn't see a reason at the time to try and screw the old hose back in? I felt like . And still feel like this when I think about it.

It doesn't seem likely that I cross threaded as I put very little pressure on the steel nut going into cast iron when it started to bind. When I took the old hose off the steering block the nut came loose with out using a lot of oomph, however after the first turn out the nut got much harder to move before it came completely out. I'm wondering if the nut bound up and messed up the threads when it came out? In any case, I need to chase the threads in that steering block so what I'm needing is a "Blind Tap". blind tap - Google Search:

Any body here that can help me with info where I might get one, or the tap it's self? Geezuz, I don't want to have to pull that steering block, and all THAT entails. Or do I want to get some piece O' crap Chinese, or rusty garbage from a wrecking yard.

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[powermad]

Are the threads on the new line the same as the old one?

If the threads are good on the old one I have had good luck cutting the nut off and then slicing some lines in it with a cutoff wheel like a tap.
Then slowly thread it in and it should clean up any galling.

 

[PBinWA]

Most auto parts stores will have them in common sizes.
Parkrose hardware is also good for these sort of things.

 

[Stomper]

In the process of changing a water pump on my 1984 GMC 1500 pick-up it made sense to change heater and radiator hoses at the same time. Seeing as the alternator, water pump AND power steering pump all need to be removed to get the water pump off I figured that seepy 36 YO power steering pump pressure hose ought to be replaced too. What the heck, do the return hose too. It came time to put everything back and it would seem the threads in the steering box for the pressure hose are buggered. Turning the nut in by hand for 1+/- turn and it stopped. I put a wrench on it and in a 1/4, (or less?) it bound up solid. I thought threads were wrong on the Thai produced hose, so I tried a different hose, from china rolleyes. Same thing. After that the original hose wouldn't even screw in. I didn't see a reason at the time to try and screw the old hose back in? I felt like . And still feel like this when I think about it.

It doesn't seem likely that I cross threaded as I put very little pressure on the steel nut going into cast iron when it started to bind. When I took the old hose off the steering block the nut came loose with out using a lot of oomph, however after the first turn out the nut got much harder to move before it came completely out. I'm wondering if the nut bound up and messed up the threads when it came out? In any case, I need to chase the threads in that steering block so what I'm needing is a "Blind Tap". blind tap - Google Search:

Any body here that can help me with info where I might get one, or the tap it's self? Geezuz, I don't want to have to pull that steering block, and all THAT entails. Or do I want to get some piece O' crap Chinese, or rusty garbage from a wrecking yard.

Harbor Freight will have an inexpensive tap & die set that will git 'er done for you.

 

[Lesliet]

For a blind tap, you might check McMaster Carr. I'd be a bit concerned that the fitting seat in the steering gear might get damaged in the rethreading process, as it usually sticks up a bit from the bottom, but you might be able to clean up the bad part without getting into the seat. Sounds like the old line galled on the way out and tore up the threads, that happens sometimes. If you do end up having to replace the steering gearbox, the Redhead units are very nice. The reman ones from the local parts house are "ok, mostly", and I would seriously hesitate to put a used one in. ( I've been fixing cars for a living for the last 30+ years, for what it's worth) . If you buy a new Pitman arm with the gearbox, then you don't need to fight with the old one to get it off.

 

[Unka-Boo]

Try Pro Steering for the fitting...maybe take the hose and old fitting with you...GM started using metric fittings in the mid '80s, might have a case of std nut, metric hose.

 

[powermad]

The nipples should be should be metric.
If they have an o-ring on them they are metric, flared and they are standard.
These should be the ones on it unless the box has been replaced with an earlier one.

AFCO 37123 1980-Up GM Power Steering Box Fitting, 18mm-1.5 to -6 AN

AFCO steel 18mm-1.5 power steering box to -6 AN hose adapter fitting. Note: Inverted flare are used on most GM steering boxes through 1977. O-ring fittings are used later model GM metric boxes from 1978-up. Item Details '''80 & Up Box (O-Ring Type) Large M18 X 1.5 (Return)'

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

[SUPER X]

In the process of changing a water pump on my 1984 GMC 1500 pick-up it made sense to change heater and radiator hoses at the same time. Seeing as the alternator, water pump AND power steering pump all need to be removed to get the water pump off I figured that seepy 36 YO power steering pump pressure hose ought to be replaced too. What the heck, do the return hose too. It came time to put everything back and it would seem the threads in the steering box for the pressure hose are buggered. Turning the nut in by hand for 1+/- turn and it stopped. I put a wrench on it and in a 1/4, (or less?) it bound up solid. I thought threads were wrong on the Thai produced hose, so I tried a different hose, from china rolleyes. Same thing. After that the original hose wouldn't even screw in. I didn't see a reason at the time to try and screw the old hose back in? I felt like . And still feel like this when I think about it.

It doesn't seem likely that I cross threaded as I put very little pressure on the steel nut going into cast iron when it started to bind. When I took the old hose off the steering block the nut came loose with out using a lot of oomph, however after the first turn out the nut got much harder to move before it came completely out. I'm wondering if the nut bound up and messed up the threads when it came out? In any case, I need to chase the threads in that steering block so what I'm needing is a "Blind Tap". blind tap - Google Search:

Any body here that can help me with info where I might get one, or the tap it's self? Geezuz, I don't want to have to pull that steering block, and all THAT entails. Or do I want to get some piece O' crap Chinese, or rusty garbage from a wrecking yard.

Sounds like your replacement part might have had the wrongor bad threads on it and it buggered the the box threads gm was bouncing back and forth with random metric crap in that time frame ..you could try putting a brass hydrolic fitting in the box and then screw the line into it. .or have a hydrolic line built at a hydrolic shop.if there are any left There was one in the couve that Made high pressure lines a few years back. if all else fails I might have the box . I drive those trucks for years and horded parts. Ive replaced old oem parts as prevetative maintance befor to only have them fail after a year or so and put the old one i removed back on and have them last the life of the rig.new isnt better anymore MAGA

 

[Mikej]

Are the threads on the new line the same as the old one?

If the threads are good on the old one I have had good luck cutting the nut off and then slicing some lines in it with a cutoff wheel like a tap.
Then slowly thread it in and it should clean up any galling.

I've actually done this before. Would have been in my Honda wrenching days. Considering it's possible that the threads on the old nut may compromised? Plus, the threaded part is pretty short. I was thinking that would work IF I could find a bolt that size and slice into the threads. I have an inkling that threads for hydraulics are different? and a bolt with the same thread isn't available?

Most auto parts stores will have them in common sizes.
Parkrose hardware is also good for these sort of things.

I haven't checked that yet. Except for Baxter where I've been buying stuff from. they had no such tool. I like them, and a guy there at the Parkrose store, Jim, is a hoot and very knowledgeable. He is the one to talk too. He could be Dom Delouis' brother.

I haven't got around to searching yet today. I gave up in frustration Friday afternoon. Parkrose Hardware is a great place, and relatively close to me. As is Auto Zone and O'Rilley. Auto Zone is not my favorite, but only a block and a half away. O'Rilley is about a 7 out of 10 and Baxter is usually preferred for anything on older vehicles.

Harbor Freight will have an inexpensive tap & die set that will git 'er done for you.

I'm needing a blind die. One that has very little taper at the nose. The hole is very shallow.

For a blind tap, you might check McMaster Carr. I'd be a bit concerned that the fitting seat in the steering gear might get damaged in the rethreading process, as it usually sticks up a bit from the bottom, but you might be able to clean up the bad part without getting into the seat. Sounds like the old line galled on the way out and tore up the threads, that happens sometimes. If you do end up having to replace the steering gearbox, the Redhead units are very nice. The reman ones from the local parts house are "ok, mostly", and I would seriously hesitate to put a used one in. ( I've been fixing cars for a living for the last 30+ years, for what it's worth) . If you buy a new Pitman arm with the gearbox, then you don't need to fight with the old one to get it off.

This has gone through my mind, while I'm laying awake at 4:00 am with 5 hours sleep. My hope would be that it's only the top couple threads that are buggered.

Really appreciate the input on brands of steering blocks. Damn, I hope it doesn't come to that. And I've already discussed with my, sorta "Do All", mechanic son about the difficulties dicking with the pittman arm. Damn I hope it doesn't come to that.

Here's a couple pics. I noted that the threads on the nut don't have much engagement with the threads in the steering block. The return pipe is pretty much the same, though a smaller diameter than the pressure line nuts.

 

[SUPER X]

Those look like 2 diffent threads in the pic. The size of the untreaded area looks off to. You could measure the 2 with your reloading mic. To pin it down exact so you can idwhat might have started the problem.

 

[Mikej]

DANG! I want to say, you guys are really coming through for me! Good leads!

Try Pro Steering for the fitting...maybe take the hose and old fitting with you...GM started using metric fittings in the mid '80s, might have a case of std nut, metric hose.

Dirty rotten Scoundrels! Yeah, had to use an 18mm wrench to get the pressure hose nut off.

Beside Pro Steering Systems I was given the name of "Oil Filter Service" that may help.

The nipples should be should be metric.
If they have an o-ring on them they are metric, flared and they are standard.
These should be the ones on it unless the box has been replaced with an earlier one.

AFCO 37123 1980-Up GM Power Steering Box Fitting, 18mm-1.5 to -6 AN

AFCO steel 18mm-1.5 power steering box to -6 AN hose adapter fitting. Note: Inverted flare are used on most GM steering boxes through 1977. O-ring fittings are used later model GM metric boxes from 1978-up. Item Details '''80 & Up Box (O-Ring Type) Large M18 X 1.5 (Return)'

www.speedwaymotors.com

I'm not sure that what you link is linking is anything I can use?

See the picture, there is a flare at the end. It's the original box. I've had it since June 1984.

Sounds like your replacement part might have had the wrongor bad threads on it and it buggered the the box threads gm was bouncing back and forth with random metric crap in that time frame ..you could try putting a brass hydrolic fitting in the box and then screw the line into it. .or have a hydrolic line built at a hydrolic shop.if there are any left There was one in the couve that Made high pressure lines a few years back. if all else fails I might have the box . I drive those trucks for years and horded parts. Ive replaced old oem parts as prevetative maintance befor to only have them fail after a year or so and put the old one i removed back on and have them last the life of the rig.new isnt better anymore MAGA

Holding the nuts together the threads match. I would like to be able to match MORE threads but the threaded portions aren't long enough. Diameter is identical.

 

[Unka-Boo]

Oil Filter Service is GTG also....fwiw, while Im doing heavy truck parts now, I did automotive for 15 years prior, so "been there, seen that"...could just be a case of "offshore part dont fit right".

 

[SUPER X]

Its probably not easy looking at the box threads . It doesnt have to be damaged or off by much to start a nightmere for you.

 

[powermad]

Tacoma Screw on Columbia should have 16 mm x 1.5 and 18 mm x 1.5 bottoming taps.

The link I gave just shows what it looks like.
That fitting is used to convert AN hoses to a metric box.

If you are close to Gresham I can swing by and take a look at it.
If it does come down to where the box can't be salvaged I have a pitman arm puller.
But if you can still see the threads in the box it can be fixed.

 

[Mikej]

Oil Filter Service is GTG also....fwiw, while Im doing heavy truck parts now, I did automotive for 15 years prior, so "been there, seen that"...could just be a case of "offshore part dont fit right".

Jim at Baxters suggested that. and I will call them. I did called Pro Steering and the guy was very nice. They don't have a tap but he told me it should be metric. When measuring dia. I got .700" on the new pipe and .698" on the original. Is .002 going to be the difference?

Tacoma Screw on Columbia should have 16 mm x 1.5 and 18 mm x 1.5 bottoming taps.

The link I gave just shows what it looks like.
That fitting is used to convert AN hoses to a metric box.

If you are close to Gresham I can swing by and take a look at it.
If it does come down to where the box can't be salvaged I have a pitman arm puller.
But if you can still see the threads in the box it can be fixed.

There's threads. I'm probably not up to snuff mechanic wise, to some of you guys, but I've prided myself over the years not over torquing/breaking stuff, nor cross threading. Did a bunch on the Honda Motor Cycles from mid '70s to mid '80s. This is why I'm sick over this.

 

[powermad]

Eh, it happens.
The trick is to not completely screw it up before asking for help.
Something I try in vain to get the kids in the shop to do.

I don't mind helping a guy out, I get irritated when they ask for help after it looks like a 4 leaf clover and has a tap and an easy out stuck in it.
I can't count how many 8mm holes I have had to drill out to put a 5/8" bolt in it, grind it flush and make a new hole.

 

[thorborg]

Once you figgured out the tap you need you may want to try: INDUSTRIAL & AUTOMOTIVE TOOLS | HALL TOOL | PORTLAND OR

 

[Unka-Boo]

You going to the Delta Park Baxters?
Its like the last bastion of old parts guys for them...

I spent 10 years in the Oak Grove store....been a while tho

 

[Mikej]

Well, called Pro Steering, been to Tacoma Screw, Oil Filter Service and General Threaded Products, which was recommended by Oil Filter Service. the gut at Tacoma screw confirmed threads on both pipes the same, 18mm-1.5 thread. Guy at general Threaded didn't have an 18mm- 1.5 for me to get and cut to clean the threads. He suggested Hall tool...Guy sitting there, told him the problem and he got up and grabbed the tap I need of the shelf. $30.00. I didn't get it because I still wanted to try a modified bolt. At Parkrose Hardware I found the bolt, and a castle nut to clean up the threads on the bolt after grinding on it. I was going to be into it about $14.00. Unless someone here has that tap? I'm just going to bite-it and have a fine blind tap that I'll probably never use again!

Once you figgured out the tap you need you may want to try: INDUSTRIAL & AUTOMOTIVE TOOLS | HALL TOOL | PORTLAND OR

Great place. It even smells good in there. Like "Tools"!

You going to the Delta Park Baxters?
Its like the last bastion of old parts guys for them...

I spent 10 years in the Oak Grove store....been a while tho

I find myself going to the Parkrose store. The one guy, Jim, is pretty savvy.

 

[Unka-Boo]

Check a spark plug tap/thread chaser should be 18x1.5