A 'Minor' issue with my new RIA 1911 9mm.

[Koda]

I believe you are overlooking the rebound from the two solid pieces of steel hitting each other. The slide will recoil quicker than you will hand chamber, or drop from the slide stop, and itself will rebound from the impact of being driven rearward and hitting it's stop. I'm going to side with @gmerkt on this one.

I see it as the slide rebounding from the same stopped position, where the slide hits the frame its at a full stop.

 

[osprey]

I have not checked for bullet movement in semi auto pistols but I have in various AR chamberings. When I used uncrimped handloads in my ARs, I get the cartridge oal growing slightly from the violent stop of chambering. I find it odd a 1911 would be the opposite.

 

[orygun]

I see it as the slide rebounding from the same stopped position, where the slide hits the frame its at a full stop.

If I were an engineeer, I might be able to figure it out.
But I'm not. I am imagining the slide and it's stop reacting like smacking a hammer on another metal object. It rebounds.
Does this apply to the gun in action?

 

[Koda]

If I were an engineeer, I might be able to figure it out.
But I'm not. I am imagining the slide and it's stop reacting like smacking a hammer on another metal object. It rebounds.
Does this apply to the gun in action?

Not in my opinion.
Though Im not an engineer either... (though I do work directly with them daily and design things for a living). Its possible the persons wrist motion flipping the pistol forward back on target could influence the recoil springs return rate. IMO my guess it would not be significant enough to matter but you could be right.

 

[Koda]

I have not checked for bullet movement in semi auto pistols but I have in various AR chamberings. When I used uncrimped handloads in my ARs, I get the cartridge oal growing slightly from the violent stop of chambering. I find it odd a 1911 would be the opposite.

The feed ramp on the AR is very shallow and the side of the bullet rides up into the chamber.
The feed ramp on the 1911 is very steep and is designed to contact the front of the bullet and deflect it up into the chamber. Its that impact that can push a bullet deeper into the case if the crimp is too light. 1911 magazines are also notorious for causing the round to nosedive when feeding causing jams but that really makes the setback even worse.

 

[RVTECH]

The feed ramp on the 1911 is very steep

AND the barrel on my RIA IS ramped which may be part of the issue.

This is my first 1911 with a ramped barrel.

 

[osprey]

The feed ramp on the AR is very shallow and the side of the bullet rides up into the chamber.
The feed ramp on the 1911 is very steep and is designed to contact the front of the bullet and deflect it up into the chamber. Its that impact that can push a bullet deeper into the case if the crimp is too light. 1911 magazines are also notorious for causing the round to nosedive when feeding causing jams but that really makes the setback even worse.

Wait what, the 1911 is not perfection?

 

[Koda]

AND the barrel on my RIA IS ramped which may be part of the issue.

This is my first 1911 with a ramped barrel.

Well Im kinda going out on a limb here, im not a gunsmith so someone can correct me if im wrong.
But the angle of the feedramp is the same for the 1911 to work. The bullet still deflects off the ramp to get up and into the chamber.
The ramp was a solution looking for a problem, because many people believe the 1911 slides up the ramp either style so ramping the barrel removed the step in the original design. I own both, and if the bullet isnt crimped enough it will setback with either type of ramp.
The issue is all about a good proper crimp, (or sometimes the wrong feedlip angle on the magazine. )

 

[64MercurysRule]

I'd make sure the top of the chamber opening is smooth and
It wouldn't hurt to polish the feed ramp with a Dremel and some metal polish .

 

[RVTECH]

I'd make sure the top of the chamber opening is smooth

The ramp is very smooth but there is a pretty sharp 'transition' where the ramp stops and chamber 'mouth' begins.

It wouldn't hurt to polish the feed ramp with a Dremel and some metal polish .

I might slightly polish this edge - but it certainly won't be with a Dremel...

 

[64MercurysRule]

As long as one uses a cotton tip and polish compound at a lower Dremel speed it does a fantastic job of finishing the surface . 2 examples from the Internet show minimal polish .

John Browning would be proud .

 

[RVTECH]

As long as one uses a cotton tip and polish compound at a lower Dremel speed it does a fantastic job of finishing the surface .

I might give one of the cotton tips a try.

Never used a Dremel for actual 'polishing' but this will be a good start.

 

[64MercurysRule]

It's one of the first things I do to my semi's , bolt actions , revolvers , anything that has contact or 2 surfaces . Just polishes surface and not trying to remove any dimensional metal . A little polish effort really does go a long ways . Worth the time .

 

[RVTECH]

A little polish effort really does go a long ways . Worth the time .

Oh, I know. Polished more than a 'few' gun parts and pieces in my life! (lot's on Model 94's)

This is just my first 1911 with a 'ramped' barrel!

 

[64MercurysRule]

Part of my sharing is to help others who may not have ever thought about getting some polish and adding some love to their guns . Helping them become one with their metal machine .

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/c5n13pQBh98?si=0kMnax5rV6Fdi1_V

 

[orygun]

Part of the reason for a ramped barrel is better support for the brass when firing. My first 1911, a Para, had a ramped barrel. If the point of better support for the case is true, that must mean the junction between chamber and ramp is moved rearward. I'd assume the ramp angle is changed due to that, and then it would have to be steeper. Don't know that is pertinent here, but it's a thought.
With the exception of a mag or two that caused nosedives, I've never had a feeding issue with any of my 1911s. Some have had tighter chambers than others and might need a nudge to go completely into battery, but that was because some of the cast bullet reloads were a little "fat". Otherwise, they eat.

ps. all of my experience is with 45.

 

[RVTECH]

Here is my RIA 9mm barrel.

It's actually not too bad for being stock. A closer (and clean) look revealed a smoother ramp - to - mouth transition than I originally thought.

I'll probably forgo any polishing for now and just shoot it!

 

[64MercurysRule]

Not too bad of machining lines on the ramp . About average in finish .

 

[VinnieBoomBah]

Tagging in so I don't forget this thread when the ShockBuffs start falling apart and causing jams

 

[RVTECH]

Tagging in so I don't forget this thread when the ShockBuffs start falling apart and causing jams

The trick is to use the right material to make them out of to minimize falling apart.

Originally I was using dense, neoprene plumbing gasket material and was getting about 500 or so shots before they started to fall apart but now I am trying a different material that is heavier and denser and it looks like it is going to be MUCH better.

This is only about 100 or so rounds but no signs of falling apart - yet.

Also I have NEVER had a jam, even with buffs that I hadn't checked in a while and had pretty well 'shredded' and probably had exceeded 1000 or more rounds.