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70 Blazer swapping to disks, brake line fittings issue.

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by Bigfoot, Nov 21, 2014.

  1. Bigfoot

    Bigfoot Clack Co. OR Well-Known Member

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    My 70 Blazer threw a Warn hub and almost threw a wheel (whew) so rather than rebuilding the axle I figured it was a good time to swap in the axle from my 85 rustbucket K5 with the disk brakes. It all went right in except for the rubber brake lines. The 70 lines have a banjo at the wheel and is threaded at the frame. The 85 is threaded at the wheel and a quick disconnect fitting at the frame.

    Anybody know of someone that can cut the banjo off and crimp a threaded fitting in it's place?

    Or alternative brake lines either new or from a boneyard?

    The 1971 Blazer and I assume the trucks got disk brakes, I wonder what the lines look like.

    I initially intended to run the 85 lines all the way from the dash however my second truck died and I need this blazer on the road in a hurry.
     
  2. spectra

    spectra The Couve Moderator Staff Member Bronze Supporter

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    Have any links to pics or pics of what you have? All the Chevys I have had in the past have threaded into a hardline at the frame no quick disconnects on them.
     
  3. Mark W.

    Mark W. Silverton, OR Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    You changing your proportioning valve as well? You might as well just replace everything from the master cyl to the caliper. If you don't change the proportioning valve hang on to the rear end of that thing when you put on the brakes.
     
  4. Bigfoot

    Bigfoot Clack Co. OR Well-Known Member

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    I want to replace everything including the booster eventually..

    I've had three rigs die on me this month so right now I'm walking. And I live in the country so I was hoping to get this on the road so I can get to work even if it's not 100%. However you're right about the proportioning valve. Since I can't get into town anyway tomorrow I'll look into tearing both lines out and just go 85 lines all the way, saves me having to rig anything. I'll bet those lines are buried though and it'll be a witch replacing them without bending them up.

    Once I get the 85 lines in how difficult is it to install the vacuum assisted booster into a previously non-power-brake truck?
     
  5. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    You need a double flaring tool set for the metal brake lines.
    Fairly easy to do, just follow the directions, or watch a You Tube showing how.

    There shouldn't be an issue with enough room on a Blazer to add the booster, but you will need the vacuum hose hooked up on your intake manifold.
    Should be a properly sized port located somewhere near the base of the carb.

    There's a company in Portland that is the best place for any brake parts.
    They helped me a lot when I built my 55 Willey's power brake system.

    BRAKE SYSTEMS INC.
    2221 NE Hoyt
    Portland, OR 97232
    Phone
    503-236-2116
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014
  6. orygun

    orygun West Linn Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Mark's right about the proportioning valve. Plus, it's quite possible the disc brake master cylinder has a larger bore. (disc brake calipers require a larger volume of fluid than a drum brake wheel cylinder) You'll need that master cylinder, too.
    The steel brake line work is fairly simple if you have a tubing tool set which includes a tubing cutter and a double flaring tool.
     
  7. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    One more thing to consider. Don't reuse the copper washers that go on either side of the banjo fittings.
    They will always leak, no matter how hard you tighten them.
    Buy replacements, they're cheap.
     
    Mbeef61, Bigfoot and 3MTA3 like this.
  8. Bigfoot

    Bigfoot Clack Co. OR Well-Known Member

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    New copper washers, check. There's a NAPA in a small town several miles away. Thanks.

    I have or used to have a flaring tool, haven't seen it in years. But why do I need it if I'm using all 1985 lines and master? For the rear lines?

    Looks like I can't use the 85 booster. All the 67- 70 boosters are aftermarket but they only run around $100 so no big. I can run without one for a while. I'm used to stomping on that pedal to stop. I sure won't miss the drum brake fade on a 3700 lb rig.

    This is a completely stock K5 down to the pushbutton AM radio and worn out quradrajet, 98 % straight body with only a bit of rust. The 85 is ugly but it has a low miles rebuilt 350 and a solid shifting, rebuilt 700R4 both are eventually going into the 70. Unless I decide to install the LS1 there instead of the 240Z.

    Thanks for the help. I'll keep y'all updated.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014
  9. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    The mounting points for the brake lines might be in a different configuration, and all the bending in the world might not line them up correctly.
    Sometimes it's easier to cut the line near the frame and union in a new piece that might need to be longer.
     
  10. 44mag2ndamend

    44mag2ndamend Round the ole tree stump, Down by the crick Well-Known Member

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    Bugg Out Machine eh?
     
  11. Bigfoot

    Bigfoot Clack Co. OR Well-Known Member

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    "The mounting points for the brake lines might be in a different configuration, and all the bending in the world might not line them up correctly.
    Sometimes it's easier to cut the line near the frame and union in a new piece that might need to be longer."

    Gotcha, thanks.

    Nah my property is paid off, it's mine. I'll stay here and die protecting it. I ain't running from anybody. That'll be a good day to die. Gotta go eventually. I'd much rather go out protecting or saving innocent life but you can't predict when the time will come. If it goes down like that then I'll have to be content with killing as many wolves as I can. And I'm set up to kill lots of wolves before I go. Heck they might just turn around and look for an easier target, most propeties are.

    This Blazer is a driver/hunting/hauling rig, I can tow my 16" tandem axle trailer with 2 1/2 cords of wet rounds no sweat. Everytime I consider trading for a more modern Toyota 4x4 I just remember all the thumbs up that I get when I drive it. All these car based suvs can blow me. Yeah it's old school like me and at times I wish it was more quiet and comfortable but damn this old beast is cool.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2014
    mjbskwim and Redcap like this.
  12. DieselScout

    DieselScout S Clackamas County Well-Known Member

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    When I have needed an odd hose, I 've use Top Industrial Supply in Clackamas, by D&R and Whicita Pub of 224. They've made a few power steering hoses for me for the odd International from time to time. I don't know if they do brakes, but they had done exactly what you are asking for me with power steering hoses.
     
    Bigfoot likes this.
  13. Bigfoot

    Bigfoot Clack Co. OR Well-Known Member

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  14. powermad

    powermad Portland Active Member

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    I miss my ol 69 K5.
    I don't remember the specifics but I had a 76 D44 front axle and installed a 72 3/4 ton booster, master and proportioning valve on it. It hit the skids much better.
    I had a set of 4:10 3/4 ton axles to swap into it as well but ended up selling them to fund a FAL project.
    As cool as it was to drive the 5MPG and premium fuel was killing me when fuel was nearly $4 a gallon.
    That and it wasn't really a good family hauler, cold and loud with 2.5" pipes and 40 series Flowmasters.
    Wound up selling it for a loss as it always goes.
    Eventually I needed another rig and was looking at 60 series Land Cruisers, ended up with a 91 80 series instead. Only regret I have is not getting one sooner. Still miss the K5 though.
    P1010022.jpg

    These may help if you are in need of 1st gen K5 doors. Just get a set of regular cab doors and cut them down.
    1stgendoor2.jpg

    1stgendoor.jpg

    For all things K5 related check out coloradok5.com, tons of info there.
     
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  15. spectra

    spectra The Couve Moderator Staff Member Bronze Supporter

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    Did you get this figured out? Would like to know the outcome?
     
  16. Bigfoot

    Bigfoot Clack Co. OR Well-Known Member

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    85 hose $(KGrHqFHJCcE+M9wpNstBQNjdvgc)w~~_32.JPG
    70 hose
    120622.jpg

    The two systems are completely incompatible, different solid line diameters, connectors, everything. Been looking for alternative hoses that would adapt, no luck, the 71's used the same hoses as the 85 so I gotta get to Top Industrial Supply somehow.

    The 85 hoses do have 6" of solid line coming off the wheel, looks to me like Top Supply can cut, flare and adapt them to the 70 hoses. I'll use the 85 master because it has the bigger front brake reservoir and plunger. I'm hoping I can tune the 70 proportioner to work. I'll try that first, if I can't get the fronts to work right then I'll have to run the 85 lines all the way which means I'll have to swap the rear axle also. The 85 rear axle does have larger drums and someday I'll run it, just don't want to right now because I might run into driveline length problems and I'll need another rig to get around in to fix that. Or I could swap in the 85 700r4 and 208 transfer case. See how everything keeps snowballing just because of a couple dam hose connections?
     
  17. Bigfoot

    Bigfoot Clack Co. OR Well-Known Member

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  18. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    You might try looking into a manual proportioning valve.
    Then you can dial in the amount of front disc braking in relation to the rear drums.


    Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves 260-8419
    Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-8419 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves

    $41.94

    Brake Proportioning Valve, Knob Adjustment, 1/8 in. NPT, Single Inlet/Outlet, Aluminum,

    wil-260-8419_cp.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2014
    Bigfoot likes this.