1950s Winchester 94 30-30

[OneToughQuaker]

I picked this up (off here with a three way trade of a canoe).
I'm deciding what to do with her. I need the right punches to tear her down, so nothing is happening today.
I figure I'll strip her down. Rub her down with some hoppes I have laying around. Clean off any gunk. OilThen put it all back together and go shoot some cans.
I'll send some after pics, unless someone has a better plan and stops me. Lol.

I'm new to all this.

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[sobo]

Pretty gun.
I inherited Dad's old Winchester '94 in 32 Win Special. It was his first gun when he was 13 (in 1943 - he's 90 now and still kickin' hard).
If it were me, I'd take her out right now and put a few dozen rounds downrange, just to feel how she does and see where the rounds land w/respect to aim point.
Then clean her up before you put her back in the barn...

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Bronze wool , gun oil and a light touch will be your friend here...as well as a properly fitting screw driver.
Nice project rifle for sure.
Andy

 

[sobo]

as well as a properly fitting screw driver

^^^^ this ^^^^

 

[OneToughQuaker]

^^^^ this ^^^^

I plan on getting a new kit tomorrow. I live too close to the ocean everything I have rusts.

 

[ARFrog]

Not just a screwdriver but the correct bits for a Winchester. For example, pick the correct Win 94 bits from here:

As a set -

BROWNELLS WINCHESTER/MARLIN SCREWDRIVER SETS | Brownells

On the bench or in the field, you’ll have the right screwdrivers for your gun in one compact, go-anywhere package. We precisely matched each gun’s screws to the correct Magna-Tip® bits to give you the best possible, blade-to-slot fit. Except where...

www.brownells.com

Just the bits-

BROWNELLS WINCHESTER/MARLIN SCREWDRIVER BITS | Brownells

We precisely matched each gun’s screws to the correct Magna-Tip® bits to give you the best possible, blade-to-slot fit. SPECS: Win. 97 - (4) bits; Marlin 336 - (6) bits; Win. 92 - (7) bits; Win. 94 Angle Eject - (5) bits; Win. 94 Top Eject - (6) b...

www.brownells.com

Pick the right tools for the job and your Winchester screw tops will thank you. Don't and you sometimes stand a chance of buggering up the top of the screw heads.

 

[orygun]

I have a Wheeler screw driver kit. It's very handy due to the assortment of driver head widths and thicknesses. I used them when I tore down my pre 64 model 1894. It makes quite a difference to use the proper tool. Also, make sure the driver slots are clean before you stick the bit in and twist. Over time gunk can build up in the bottoms and the driver will only engage partially, posing a risk of it's own.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

I have a Wheeler screw driver kit. It's very handy due to the assortment of driver head widths and thicknesses. I used them when I tore down my pre 64 model 1894. It makes quite a difference to use the proper tool. Also, make sure the driver slots are clean before you stick the bit in and twist. Over time gunk can build up in the bottoms and the driver will only engage partially, posing a risk of it's own.

Those Wheeler kits are very nice for sure...
And I totally understand that last bit about how gunk builds up and poses a risk....
I have a 1959 / 1960 ( year depends on what source is used ) 94 with a broken barrel band screw ( rear )
I tried various ways to remove it...but it needs to go to the "Gun Doctor" when I have the funds to get it fixed.
Andy

 

[DunRanull]

Nice project!
I'd like to get hold of a 1951 Winnie 94... just cuz...

As concerns the Winnie in question, I might be tempted to take the wood off and re-do it, while the metal was in shop being reblued... it IS a Winchester after all and they quit making them, didnt they?

 

[Rascal01]

You can likely save yourself some work by getting a can of G-96 cleaner/lubricant/solvent. The stuff works great. I've been using it for longer than you would likely believe. Follow the instructions on the can and you may save yourself a big job.

The spray can is red, yellow and black. The product looks a little like shaving cream out of the can, then quickly liquifies. It's great for flushing out dirt and debris, excellent on rust, does an amazing job on the finish and won't hurt the wood.

This may get you past having to take you rifle apart. Use it outside or over newspaper because you may get a lot of dirt or crud out of the gun that could stain your floor.

It is not a good lubricant if the temperature drops below freezing

Good Luck..

 

[ron]

I helped a friend clean up his 1930s model 1894. Under the front hand guard it was full of an orange goo!
More rust found under the stock. I advise everyone that buys a used gun take it apart and clean it
thoroughly.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

I helped a friend clean up his 1930s model 1894. Under the front hand guard it was full of an orange goo!
More rust found under the stock. I advise everyone that buys a used gun take it apart and clean it
thoroughly.

Very good advice here....

I just "fixed" a "broken" CVA 1860 Colt Army replica for someone....simply by cleaning it.
The revolver would not rotate the cylinder and the hammer was stuck in place...
But the revolver look to be in excellent shape when viewed from the exterior.

The gun was made in 1981...and it was stored in the factory carton...
So between he carton's foam has deteriorating and oil drying up and "guming" up the works...
The revolver was "broken"

Slowly taking it apart and cleaning away foam debris and old congealed oil was the trick...
Easy for a me....but for the owner...who isn't really a gun person...it was broken beyond repair.

Often the "fix" for an new to you gun is a simply deep clean.
Andy

 

[P7M13]

Bronze wool , gun oil and a light touch will be your friend here...as well as a properly fitting screw driver.

You're in Newport -- go to a sailing or marine repair shop for Bronze or Copper wool. The "copper" or "bronze" wool sold at most places is just steel wool with plating. Use a magnet to check.

Under the front hand guard it was full of an orange goo!

The internals of my 1940's '94 was full of orange goo. Started cleaning the internals after firing and it looked like I was juicing a blood orange.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

The "copper" or "bronze" wool sold at most places is just steel wool with plating. Use a magnet to check.

I haven't run across that before....good to know....
With that said...
I have used plain old steel wool with good results....the key with that was a light touch....
Andy

 

[P7M13]

I haven't run across that before....good to know....
With that said...
I have used plain old steel wool with good results....the key with that was a light touch....
Andy

True copper wool is one of the best ways to remove calcium deposits or other crud from nickel, brass or chrome plumbing pieces. The plated stuff is like taking a chisel (or a scotch brite scrubber) to it. Freds used to sell it, but cannot find it there anymore.

 

[RVTECH]

I recommend complete disassembly. Other than a couple things that require a bit of care Mod 94s are pretty simple. I have done many over the years including my 1899 just last summer and it cleaned up nicely. Other than a minimal amount of rust on the exterior it came out well cnsidering it sat in a closet in San Francisco for over 50 years! The bluing under the forestock was in incredibly good condition. I wish the remainder looked like it!

I would recommend the 'penny' trick. If you are unaware of this it is using a COPPER penny (pre '82) as a 'scraping' tool to remove rust.

You will want to use some light oil and just lightly use the penny to 'scrape' the areas of rust and you will be surprised how well it works.

When doing this on the barrel the penny will 'wear' to the radius and very quickly remove any surface rust.

 

[OneToughQuaker]

Thanks guys. I took it apart a few weeks back. It cleaned up pretty nice. Some old crud and there was rust under the wool. I had a heck of a time putting her back together. The one screw on the barrel was a bear.
The blueing still has issues. But no rust and she shoots great. I'll have to get better after pics. But here were some from the work.
Dave

 

[orygun]

I have used plain old steel wool with good results....the key with that was a light touch....
Andy

Just like cutting a chunk of 2x4. If you cut it too long, you can cut it again. You can never "uncut" it. Start lightly.

 

[Rascal01]

Thanks guys. I took it apart a few weeks back. It cleaned up pretty nice. Some old crud and there was rust under the wool. I had a heck of a time putting her back together. The one screw on the barrel was a bear.
The blueing still has issues. But no rust and she shoots great. I'll have to get better after pics. But here were some from the work.
Dave

View attachment 730723 View attachment 730724 View attachment 730725 View attachment 730726

Somehow the putting it back together is often a bear. The gunsmiths, the mechanical types and people with advanced skills do well. For others, it can be the lost part, the it doesn't fit, why is it doing that, why isn't that working, the buggered screw head and cold blue to hide the scratch. Try G96 on the blueing. I think you will be pleased.

 

[RVTECH]

For others, it can be the lost part, the it doesn't fit, why is it doing that, why isn't that working

I have done my share of tinkering/gun smithing and consider myself a pretty good 'novice' (along with most other mechanical applications) however something I have done many times when disassembling a gun or a component is to take a picture of it.
This has helped me many times, especially if a day or two has passed before reassembly due to other repairs or issues.
I have even gone so far as to take pictures of the sides of a receiver, printed them and punched the corresponding screws into their locations on the picture as a guide to reassembly.
Id rather be sure than to look at a cupful of screws & parts and to scratch my head wondering how they go back together.
Tech manuals (for anything) would have no value without pics and few extra minutes to keep my phone handy to snap a few pics along the way has saved me a lot of frustration!