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Well, after buying my new RIA my Colt .45 cant 'live' with a standard grip safety.

Anybody perform this mod? It looks fairly straightforward and simple (with the jig of course) however I see a .250 radius and a .220 style and was wondering of anyone has done this and knows why there is a difference and how it applies.
 
I don't do that kind of 1911 work anymore, just troubleshooting and tuning.

I would think there would be a 'smith around that would do a good job with that.

I don't know of anyone right off, but know a few a few states away I'd recommend.
 
Well, after buying my new RIA my Colt .45 cant 'live' with a standard grip safety.

Anybody perform this mod? It looks fairly straightforward and simple (with the jig of course) however I see a .250 radius and a .220 style and was wondering of anyone has done this and knows why there is a difference and how it applies.
.250 is pretty standard and will work with, JEM, EGW, Ed Brown. .220 is closer to the radius Springfield and Wilson use. If you want to purchase a safety from Wilson, use the Wilson jig. If you want to purchase from Ed brown, use the Ed brown jig. You'll be removing material and the frame will likely need to be refinished after you blend the beavertail and frame.
 
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I've done it a couple times on steel and aluminum frames using an Ed Brown jig. It is "easy" but does take some time and patience especially when you get to the end when small amounts of filing or sanding need to be done. Mine came with little delrin washers that are supposed to protect your frame, but you will end up with circular scratch marks on the frame. Also, 1911 beavertail safeties are not "drop in" and will require some final fitting, there are lots of videos on that, and they are all not shaped the same, so you may need to do some fitting at the rear by the pin and on the tangs

And as much as I love Brownells, they are wondering into H&K territory with this one :s0114:


ETA: Just noticed you have a RIA, and depending on the year your frame dimensions may be very close to, but not exactly like a Colt's 1911. I'm working on a Bob Day inspired 9mm 1911 and it is taking longer to get everything fitted than when I added the beavertail to a Colt. It can be done, it just takes a bit more effort
 
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ETA: Just noticed you have a RIA, and depending on the year your frame dimensions may be very close to, but not exactly like a Colt's 1911.
Yes, I have a new RIA but will be doing this on my COLT 1991 - A1. The extended Beavertail on the RIA is what inspired me to do the mod to my Colt. Actually I was going to do this a couple years ago but didn't proceed with it.

I don't know of anyone right off, but know a few a few states away I'd recommend.
Thanks but I should have been clearer in that I will be doing this myself. I have the metalworking skills and abilities and while never having done this specifically it's looks pretty straightforward and not too difficult!
 
I don't do that kind of 1911 work anymore, just troubleshooting and tuning.

I would think there would be a 'smith around that would do a good job with that.

I don't know of anyone right off, but know a few a few states away I'd recommend.
To clarify, I was wondering if you knew why there are .220 and .250 radius cuts used for the beavertail that @RVTECH was alluding to. Thus the reason for notifying you about this thread and not your ability to perform the actual beavertail cut. 😀
 
To clarify, I was wondering if you knew why there are .220 and .250 radius cuts used for the beavertail that @RVTECH was alluding to. Thus the reason for notifying you about this thread and not your ability to perform the actual beavertail cut. 😀
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...that what happens when I try to multi-task.

Different makers use a different radius cut. I think someone already mentioned Springfield uses a .220 cut, which is proprietary to a certain model of Beavertail.

Whichever BT is chosen, look at the required radius cut, and get the proper jig.

Ed Brown is also proprietary, as they their BT fits extremely deep into the frame.

I would go with a Wilson or the like with a standard .250 radius cut.

@RVTECH , if you need a jig I've got one I can send you...I think its made by Wilson, I'll check.
To keep the marks off the frame, use painters tape under the jig.

I'm doing my last full build 1911, will post when done.
 

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