Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by gunandammohunting, Oct 31, 2015.
Hi I'm trying to find the correct 223 dies for rcbs rockchucker. Thanks
Pretty much any die set made in the last 40 years not Dillon brand should work. I run a RCBS Jr Press and use Redding, RCBS, Hornady and Lee dies they all work just fine.
I run the rcbs small base dies in .223 and they work great
Ok thanks I was looking at the small base dies
I use em for the auto loaders just because I like the extra margin, to help ensure they will feed. I know a lot of people say they are not necessary.
Take it with a grain of salt, I've yet to have a round not chamber which is the way I like it
You're looking for part number 11103 for the small base .223 die set. If you just need the small base sizer, it's part number 11131. If you want the full length die set it's 11101.
For the AR, don't forget to trim your cases and use a "Factory crimp" die to prevent any bullet "set backs", due to improper case neck tension.
Just get the RCBS Black AR 223/556. That will give you all you need. It includes the taper crimp die.
If ya want get an extra small base sizing die and if you stick a case... use it for a back up and keep going till you get the stuck one out.
Things happen even with Dilion carbide dies.
Loading good .223/5.56 is almost an art form. I use a small base sizing die because my ammo goes through both bolt and gas guns. Use enough lube during resizing and you won't have any stuck cases. Be sure to check head space at this juncture. Make sure cases feed and eject smoothly from the firearm your ammo is meant for. After I re-size and de-prime, I tumble in a liquid/stainless pin tumbler because I have found vibrating ones don't get ALL the carbon off. Any dark stuff on the neck/shoulder area can lead to jams in gas guns. The wet tumbler cleans inside and out and cleans the primer pocket too. Nice. Then trim all brass to spec and camfer the mouths until smooth....no jagged edges...burrs can lead to jams...and scar your chamber Re-prime and you're ready to load. I prefer to taper crimp. Not trimming your brass to a uniform spec can lead to real problems during the seating process. Mil brass is a pain. Be sure to ream out the primer crimp but don't cut too deep. Cutting too deep can cause primers to blow out at ignition. Good shooting!
On the cheap you can get the Hornady American series, comes with shell plate and dies. The lock rings do not lock and no box.
I prefer anything RCBS, small base dies are fairly new.
I have never had any feed issues using regular dies myself.
Watch your crimp, if some cases longer the neck could deform.
For the extra 10 bucks, I would get the black box RCBS small base to ensure the best results.
Be sure to use the right shell holder. The shell holder for 9mm is #16 and it is really close, but it will rip the rims off and leave a stuck shell if it is really tight. The correct shell holder is #10 for .223.
Please don't ask why I know this.
BTW, I really like the RCBS stuck case removal tool with the drill and the tap.
Upgrade your rock chucked to a progressive with their piggyback system. And you can remove it if needed and single stage your big rifle calibers.
The piggyback can do 308 and 223. Also!
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