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I know, obvious answer. I just don't want to train with it. I won't hunt with it for hearing pro. Most of my shots I won't have time for putting them on.
Put the break back on. Take it off when you go hunting. You put your crosshairs on hair in October and when you press the happy switch you won't feel a thing.
 
Put the break back on. Take it off when you go hunting. You put your crosshairs on hair in October and when you press the happy switch you won't feel a thing.
I do appreciate the input.

The break changes the barrel harmonics and POI. I want to train how i will hunt, without the break.

I'm looking for other ideas, technique, or rifle set up that might help.
 
I do appreciate the input.

The break changes the barrel harmonics and POI. I want to train how i will hunt, without the break.

I'm looking for other ideas, technique, or rifle set up that might help.
This may seem obvious, but practice with the break, then once you're satisfied take the break off. You should be able to get back to zero with one more round. There really isn't any other option for taming recoil unless you somehow make your rifle heavier.
 
I see a lot of threads on taming recoil in a Tikka.
Adding a Limbsaver is a common theme.

I don't have a Tikka but my Internet Guess is that coupled with the Tikka Tupperware stock, the rifle is too light especially with the larger cartridges.

A Bell & Carlson stock will have more mass/weight than the Tikka Tupperware.
A $340 experiment, though.
 
Magnum cartridges equal magnum recoil, the lighter the rifle the more felt recoil there will be. There are remedies but all cost money. Some folks just aren't a good fit for magnum cartridges. That is not meant as a dig, after shoulder replacement surgery I am thinking my .338 needs to go down the road and I need to put a brake on my .270 WSM.
 
Well, I can advise that you made the first step already. Most guys shooting magnums can't shoot them any better than you are currently doing (and for the same reasons).

You are man enough to admit the recoil is a factor in your shooting capabilities. Most guys shooting magnums would equate that admission with cutting off their testicles.

I'm with the good advice here to go back to your .30-06 (or try a .270). Elk deserve the very best shooting you can do.
 
If your scope hits you in the eyebrow while in a normal shooting position, your scope is too far to the rear, and moving it forward even a quarter inch can make all the difference.

General rule of thumb: Gun that doesn't kick should have its eyepiece (very rear of the scope) line up with a vertical line from the tip of the pistol grip.

Gun with heavy recoil, move that scope about a half inch forward of that vertical line, more if necessary.

Stock styles and human ergonomics may change these ballpark figures, but all hunting scopes should display proper field and sight picture with the eye relief provided by these general rules.
 
A little late but this device I printed worked really well on my T3X superlite with a 7mm PRC barrel. No flinch needed.

Backfire made a T3X recoil pad thats supposed to amazing as well.
 
I want to train how i will hunt, without the break.
Good on ya for practicing, most hunters dont. Short of adding a muzzle device, theres not much else you can do.

Forgive me adding my biased opinion but there is no need to use such a powerful round to hunt any big game here, but I can say without any bias thats especially true for someone who regularly trains with their hunting rifle. All you can do is learn how to absorb that recoil in the various positions you will shoot from.
 
Put a suppresor on it. Shoot 165s, or 180s, move the scope forward.

As someone already mentioned, you should not be at risk of scope bite when shooting on a level plane. Most of the time when people get scope bite, it's when shooting uphill. If this is the case, you definitely need to move the optic forward.
 
Don't shoot prone. Standing with rifle from shooting sticks, bog pod (or similar), or tree limbs will reduce felt recoil a bit as your body will move with the rifle. This also reduces the chance for scope bite. Also late to the party, my bad.
 
The idea behind setting eye relief from the prone position is its the most exact eye relief making the scope position the most versitile.
You dont have to shoot it prone, but if you ever need to you will wish you had set it from there. Especially with a heavy recoil caliber...
 

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