Safe and Vault moving

[Chaffee]

My Boys and I are getting pretty good at it!

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[dangerranger60]

I know a piano mover that also moves safes. DR

 

[billdeserthills]

I know a piano mover that also moves safes. DR

While many movers will move safes, the safe pictured looks to weigh quite a bit

 

[Spitpatch]

Nothing makes a better case for smaller safes than that. Assets are scattered in multiple locations, and friends and family don't suddenly disappear when it comes time to move one.

A locked metal box is just that, and with a torch or a cutoff saw it takes exactly the same (brief) amount of time to break into a big badass safe as a smaller one.

You can choose whether the thieves are required to perform this procedure once or multiple times to acquire what is yours.

 

[SCARed]

A locked metal box is just that, and with a torch or a cutoff saw it takes exactly the same (brief) amount of time to break into a big badass safe as a smaller one.

Perhaps if your talking about a locked metal box. But safes come in all sorts of varieties. Some of my safes, bring what you want, you're not getting into them in a brief amount of time.

 

[Chaffee]

Picked up an old Postal safe today, the price was right.

 

[solv3nt]

Picked up an old Postal safe today, the price was right.

View attachment 1352910

How long could you pick it up for?

 

[Spitpatch]

Perhaps if your talking about a locked metal box. But safes come in all sorts of varieties. Some of my safes, bring what you want, you're not getting into them in a brief amount of time.

The very vast majority of gun safes are locked metal boxes. I directed my stipulation to them and with that exact description.

 

[Chaffee]

All day long! The Jack's on the dollies did the lifting.

 

[Van Westervelt]

I need to find someone who can move a Fort Knox 7241 for me. Relocating it locally, steps at one location and a single flight of stairs at another.

Anyone have a good resource? Talked to two companies and they said they couldn't do anything over 3 steps with this safe.

 

[Joe13]

Take the door off and that should be appropriately 1/3 of the weight, then you only have to get a 500# door and 1000# safe up the stairs…

Might wanna make sure your new home has enough support for that much weight in one spot.

 

[Koda]

Nothing makes a better case for smaller safes than that. Assets are scattered in multiple locations, and friends and family don't suddenly disappear when it comes time to move one.

A locked metal box is just that, and with a torch or a cutoff saw it takes exactly the same (brief) amount of time to break into a big badass safe as a smaller one.

You can choose whether the thieves are required to perform this procedure once or multiple times to acquire what is yours.

Theres an old saying... "never keep all your eggs in one basket".

Smaller safes are easy to move, Easier to hide, and spreads your valuables out.

 

[bpyycpyy]

Theres an old saying... "never keep all your eggs in one basket".

Smaller safes are easy to move, Easier to hide, and spreads your valuables out.

Plus like @Spitpatch mentioned, if being broken into it requires multiple attempts to get to ALL your goodies!

 

[Koda]

Plus like @Spitpatch mentioned, if being broken into it requires multiple attempts to get to ALL your goodies!

they are also not likely to assume someone has another safe, or three.

Safes are nothing more than barriers of time. Separating safes is adding another time barrier.

Better than the whole basket of eggs, but that said, it would still suck to get even just one small safe broken into.

 

[Joe13]

I don't have any issue talking about mine but this is a combination of what fell in my lap and what I could afford at the time.

It ended up meeting my needs about as well as I can imagine.

1 two gun mechanical quick access safe in the bedroom.

1 Long gun safe in the bedroom for 3 HD gun plus ammo.

1 high quality safe for documents, usb drives etc.

1 large safe in a separate part of the house for hunting guns and overflow.

1 enormous safe in the basement with a little ammo in it. Made in 1911 by Mosler and weighs 4,000#. (Myself and one friend moved that from Hillsboro to my house in a day, including picking up a rental trailer rated at 18k lbs)

I would say buy the best you can and then either add or trade out as you can afford or your collection grows. Everything I bought I've bought at a steep discount from what it could have cost me. Most safes can be cut in half with a worm drive circular saw and a metal cutting blade and a lot of noise but it isn't hard to do. As many know it's a deterrent and not 100% anything.

The only safe I would say you will never get into is the Mosler. Maybe with days and tools and luck but it's 8"+ of high grade steel on every side and my garage is to much of a mess to move it lol.

Those are 1" plates on that door.

 

[jbett98]

My old vintage safe has a cool decal on the door above the dial stating that it's protected by a Nighthawk Anti Tampering devise.
It's a couple of glass vials encased in a sheet metal clam shell and screwed onto the back side of the safe door, right behind the combination lock dial.
The idea was when a safe cracker tried to punch the dial shaft, it would break the glass vials and release the tear gas.
Thus, clearing the room of bad guys.
When I opened the safe for the first time, I found that it had been removed by the previous owner.
The safe door is packed with asbestos and some of it would puff out of the screw holes when the door was shut, so I filled the holes full of silicon caulking.

It would have looked like this.