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I have fired about 700 rounds through a Mark IV Lite that I bought new last fall.

At about 600 rounds it started jamming a round in the chamber every third mag.

I cleaned it at that point, and accuracy got better but the jam still happens.

Any ideas?
 
Probably need a detailed description of how it is jamming. Like the empty case is fully stuck in the chamber after the round fires or the cartridge jams half way going into the chamber as it feeds from the magazine. It also helps to know what type of ammo you are using.
 
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Look for built-up gunk in these areas. Waxy , dark gray crud, probably.
 
Many 22LR rounds (all lead bullets) are external lubricated with a waxy coating on the bullet. This does not burn up and remains plastered to the chamber unless you coax it back out. You might have a look at RimfireCentral as that is what they do there.

EDIT: 22s are well-known for being picky as to the ammo they like. Revolvers not so much, as anything that will chamber will fire. Semi-autos are quite different. For any given 22, it is good to buy and try a wide variety of brands and bullet styles and weights. Probably more than half of them your Ruger will love. It might like half of the rest and hate a few of them. Fortunately, 22LR is affordable enough that one can do some testing. Also, check Ruger.com as they may have advice or a member's forum that can advise you.

 
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I have fired about 700 rounds through a Mark IV Lite that I bought new last fall.

At about 600 rounds it started jamming a round in the chamber every third mag.

I cleaned it at that point, and accuracy got better but the jam still happens.

Any ideas?
Like others have mentioned...try CCI Mini Mags....they have never failed me yet and stay away from waxy lead 22's...especially in a semi
 
Clean the chamber and the bolt face really good, mine doesn't like std vel ammo when it's cold.
As others have said try mini mags or any 1200 fps ammo.
 
Is it always one mag or certain mags that jam? I number the mags and record any fails by mag number

I concur about CCI mini mags. They fire lots cleaner than most .22s so you can go longer between cleanings . Thunderbolts are especially dirty.
 
Is it always one mag or certain mags that jam? I number the mags and record any fails by mag number

I concur about CCI mini mags. They fire lots cleaner than most .22s so you can go longer between cleanings . Thunderbolts are especially dirty.
I tried two distinct mags, and both had the jam. I will try the CCI mini mags. All of the rounds I fired had been Federal. Thanks, All, for the advice.
 
Yes, clean chamber very well . Also myself any Ruger MK pistol or 10/22 pistol I buy the first thing I do is replace the OEM extractor with either a Volquartsen or Tandemkross extractor. The same extractor for both the MK pistols and 10/22 rifles.

These extractors you can usually get for less than $15 and in my opinion worth every penny. I always have a spare one of these in parts bin. There is a bit of a trick to replacing extractor but many videos on YouTube showing how. Not hard once you see it done.
 
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Look for built-up gunk in these areas. Waxy , dark gray crud, probably.

One common theme when this happens is the extractor. They make an after market on for them that last I looked was like $10. Its a cheap thing to try that VERY often fixes this.
I agreed with both @Knobgoblin and @Alexx1401.

I've owned 4 Ruger 22LR pistols over the years (Mark II standard, Mark III standard/target, Mark III 22/45 and currently own a Mark IV 22/45).

All eventually developed the problem you described, to one degree or another. All problems were resolved by taking apart the bolt, removing the extractor, firing pin and springs and cleaning thoroughly (soaking in Hoppes #9). (Of course, I cleaned the rest of the pistol too.)

I also found I could go longer between deep cleanings with an aftermarket extractor (Volquartsen).

TWYLALTR.

Good luck.

Cheers.
 
my MK4 runs fine with 40gr. ammo but jams about every 10th shot with 36gr. the casing is not fully ejected causing the bolt to not close. just an observation.
 
I agreed with both @Knobgoblin and @Alexx1401.

I've owned 4 Ruger 22LR pistols over the years (Mark II standard, Mark III standard/target, Mark III 22/45 and currently own a Mark IV 22/45).

All eventually developed the problem you described, to one degree or another. All problems were resolved by taking apart the bolt, removing the extractor, firing pin and springs and cleaning thoroughly (soaking in Hoppes #9). (Of course, I cleaned the rest of the pistol too.)

I also found I could go longer between deep cleanings with an aftermarket extractor (Volquartsen).

TWYLALTR.

Good luck.

Cheers.
This is my next step if it recurs.

This morning, I bought some CCI Long Rifle, ran 90 rounds and had no jams, but two duds, which I imagine is the fault of those two bullets. Each one was struck and just didn't go.
 
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BUT, But, but.....have you tried a variety (wider range of brands) of different 22 LR ammo (weights and/or types/styles of bullets)?

Yup.....that works.....sometimes.

Aloha, Mark
 
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Yes, clean chamber very well . Also myself any Ruger MK pistol or 10/22 pistol I buy the first thing I do is replace the OEM extractor with either a Volquartsen or Tandemkross extractor. The same extractor for both the MK pistols and 10/22 rifles.

These extractors you can usually get for less than $15 and in my opinion worth every penny. I always have a spare one of these in parts bin. There is a bit of a trick to replacing extractor but many videos on YouTube showing how. Not hard once you see it done.
Thanks. Will try. Cleaned the slide & all slide parts just now, per other recommendations.
 
Look on Youtube how to tune your mags I have done all of mine and makes her purr like a kitty ! I also concur with a good ole cleaning remove all carbon and use quality ammo !
I am going to stick w CCI, although will get the copper plated next time instead of the lead. As recommended above.

I've got a lot of respect for this make & model so will make it work.

Worst case scenario I try something like this bolt replacement or upgrade:


A little bit curious if it's a worthwhile use of $125. I usually prefer OEM.
 

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