Recommendations on used cars?

[CLT65]

Anyone here have a recommendation on a good, inexpensive used car? Something under about $4k. Preferably well under.

My daughter is looking for one. The poor mileage of the one she has now makes commuting to school (community college) expensive.

Used car prices sure have gone up in the last couple years. We bought a nice little '09 Toyota for my wife, for $4k three years ago. We've really come to like Toyotas over the years.

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[ma96782]

Since it seems like a moving target (or trade-off in safety) nowadays?

Q: How many MPGs will be good enough? Is an airbag really needed? Especially since Takata.

Huh?

A : https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment/takata-recall-spotlight

Aloha, Mark

 

[CLT65]

She thinks she wants a hybrid for the mileage, but a 10+ year old small, high mileage Toyota/Honda/Hyundai, etc. is more realistic, something that gets 30+ mpg.

She just wants something reliable to get her from point A to point B. My kids don't know about shiny new cars. We haven't had car payments in 20 years. I've been driving the same truck for 21 years, and we finally let go of the '99 Saturn that my wife bought new. Not that there's anything wrong with new cars, but you have to make some sacrifices to raise a family on a single blue-collar income. We just drive and maintain our old vehicles carefully and they last a long time.

 

[gryghin]

We are a Honda family for the most part. Even though I work high tech, I was raised as a military brat and we never had a new off the lot car... just new to us.

I agree, I would rather not have payments so I always put aside some money for upkeep and when needed replacement.

We have a Honda CR-Z that gets 30ish MPG but the 4 cylinder CR-V gets close to that as well.

 

[parallax]

Toyota Corolla? Seem pretty dependable ( my wife has been a Toyota girl since 1977) never had one go bad or major or minor failure of drive train ….only bought newer ones just for the more modern features ::edit cars she has had and sold with no issues:
1977 Toyota corona 4 cylinder
1990 Toyota corolla 4 cylinder
1994 Toyota RAV4 4 cylinder
2013 Toyota RAV4 4 cylinder

 

[made in china]

$4K is nigh impossible here in Western WA!

I too, love a good deal on a reliable, older, used car. I recently broke rank and bought my wife a new Toyota right before the pandemic, but otherwise we've been a used car family. Here's my $0.02:

- Subaru, anything with the 2.5, stay away from it. The EJ25 engine hates head gaskets. We had a 2008 Impreza, the HG went at 42K. Also, some of the 2002-2007 Imprezas have really bad strut tower rot. Anyways, the EJ25 isn't very good on MPGs. The newer 2.0 with CVT is likely not available anywhere near $4K, and we gave up on Subaru by the time that combo (2012+) became available.

-Hybrids: be careful about the battery pack. I would be very suspicious of a hybrid at $4K. If you have your eye on one, go to the forums for that car, there may be an easy way to assess the battery pack condition. Some hybrids, and the Nissan Leaf, make it very easy to see, either through a menu or the actual status of the charge, if the battery pack is degrading.

-Nissan: Now, I love certain Nissans, and I own 2. However, no way in hades would I ever consider ANY FWD+CVT Nissan. BTW, if it is AWD+CVT it is garbage too. These will show up in your price range, stay away!

-Toyotas aren't perfect! Some of the recent ones have oiling issues. The Matrix, Corolla, RAV4, certain years and engines burn a lot of oil. Still reliable, but I've heard as high as 1qt/2k miles. Also, some of the V6's had sludging issues.
I was shocked to find out that certain 4 cylinder Toyotas had oil consumption issues. What I have seen, is if the engine oil cap says "5W-30" on it, it's supposedly the good engine, at some point, they revised their 4 cylinders to use lightweight oils, like 0-20, etc, and yep....you guessed it.....

-Mitsubishi: hmmm, not known for good MPGs.

-VW: these do great on MPGs, especially the turbo 4 bangers. I had a 2016 GTI that did 38+MPG whilst turning out 300HP (was tuned). My friend bought a Jetta for his daughter, they like it. VWs will be in your price range. They aren't "terrible" but they have earned a reputation for being somewhat unreliable. However, I'd rather own certain older VW than certain older Nissans. They drive excellent. Just consider if it's reliable enough.

-Any "American" branded car: I've only owned a few back in the day. I have no opinion or experience with 21st century models.


I used to have all kinds of good used car suggestions. Here in WA, a 2011 Honda Fit gets advertised for $15K!! That would have/should have been your perfect $4K car!

 

[CLT65]

She sent me a link to a 2010 Corolla for sale, 200k miles, for $5k. If it's in good shape, it sounds like that's probably as good as we'll find.

It's a ways away, so it will be a while before I can go with her to take a look at it (or any). We've got a big project at work so I won't have any days off before Christmas. Hopefully we'll get Christmas off this year!

 

[slimmer13]

We have 2 Ford Fusions in the family. A 2012 and a 2014. One has 165k and the other has 150k. They've been good cars so far and can be found pretty reasonable.

 

[Heyjoe]

Toyota Corolla or a Geo Prism would be my recommendation. The 98-99 model years were junk though with very light piston rings to squeeze out every bit of fuel mileage possible. Likely what @made in china is referring to.

I just sold a 98 that burned a quart of oil every tank or so.

 

[made in china]

Forgot to add .... don't ever buy a car from a Russian!

Also, be sure the person you're buying from isn't fronting for their Russian father. I've seen that too, because sometimes they'll use the person who grew up here to communicate in perfect English.

And, be sure to have someone check the car out. Just the basics, leaks, fluid levels, Chinese tires, body repair, etc.... If a car has received too many low quality aftermarket repair parts, I'd stay away, and if it has no-name Chinese tires.... that's a good indicator that there's shortcuts being taken in the upkeep of the car.

 

[Certaindeaf]

She sent me a link to a 2010 Corolla for sale, 200k miles, for $5k. If it's in good shape, it sounds like that's probably as good as we'll find.

It's a ways away, so it will be a while before I can go with her to take a look at it (or any). We've got a big project at work so I won't have any days off before Christmas. Hopefully we'll get Christmas off this year!

If you find a good deal you have to teleport yourself there instantly, with cash in hand, to have any hope of getting it.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Anyone here have a recommendation on a good, inexpensive used car? Something under about $4k. Preferably well under.

My daughter is looking for one. The poor mileage of the one she has now makes commuting to school (community college) expensive.

Used car prices sure have gone up in the last couple years. We bought a nice little '09 Toyota for my wife, for $4k three years ago. We've really come to like Toyotas over the years.

If that current rig is reliable, $4000 will buy a lot of gas.

 

[made in china]

If that current rig is reliable, $4000 will buy a lot of gas.

Gas prices are probably going to go way down soon.

Buying a used car means you have no idea it's history, it's remaining life. Can it last long enough to pencil the gas savings out? What if it needs a $1,000 repair this year, but is completely dead 3 years later?

For me, the only way getting a more efficient vehicle works out is when your current vehicle is completely dead and you must buy something new/different right away. Then you can add efficiency to your criteria.....

 

[CLT65]

If that current rig is reliable, $4000 will buy a lot of gas.

That's exactly what I've been telling her. The current vehicle is a 20 year old PT Cruiser, just about the worst car ever made. But, now that I've fixed so many problems on it, at least I know what it is.

We've had good luck with older vehicles over the years. We got a Scion with over 200k miles for my wife several years ago, and it runs like a top, great little car. We bought a Toyota minivan over a dozen years ago, with over 200k miles, still driving it. It's hard to tell how a car has been maintained, but we've done well so far. Then again we maintain them well and don't drive them hard. They last a lot longer that way.

Forgot to add .... don't ever buy a car from a Russian!

I've heard that before, more than once. I've been told that it's something about former Soviet culture when it comes to cars, driving, and business deals in general.

 

[Certaindeaf]

And a combined 21 mpg isn't really all that bad. If it was like 12 then..
I get 16-17 ON THE HIGHWAY DRIVING LIKE A GRANNY (and it's a freaking paltry stock V-6) but know my rig should last a good while and it has sentimental and practical value.

 

[WAW44]

I've heard that before, more than once. I've been told that it's something about former Soviet culture when it comes to cars, driving, and business deals in general.

$4000 don't buy $hit these days as far as a decent car. Also, if it were my kid, I'm putting her in a something that's safe, has 2nd gen airbags, including side and head, and has some mass to it. Perhaps small SUV from Hyunday/Kia/Honda at least, or a full size sedan like Camry/Accord.

As to buying from a Russian/Chinese/Indian/ (plug in your stereotype here). Americans are naïve. Don't be. Buy the car, not the story. Pre purchase inspection exist for a reason.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

$4000 don't buy $hit these days as far as a decent car. Also, if it were my kid, I'm putting her in a something that's safe, has 2nd gen airbags, including side and head, and has some mass to it. Perhaps small SUV from Hyunday/Kia/Honda at least, or a full size sedan like Camry/Accord.

As to buying from a Russian/Chinese/Indian/ (plug in your stereotype here). Americans are naïve. Don't be. Buy the car, not the story. Pre purchase inspection exist for a reason.

Buying "the car" vs the story from a Russian can be deceiving. "The car" will most likely have its mileage rolled back to a little past whatever the carfax shows. It takes them about a minute to do and they can do it on any brand. Be careful when buying from a Russian.

 

[monks]

My daughter until recently drove a Buick. I like Buick's because they are generally well cared for cars. Older folks buy them and garage them, have them serviced, etc... The front wheel drive v6 arrangement that they employ has been a staple across the GM line for a long time so parts are cheap and they're pretty reliable. I've also found it easy to work on. My daughter is twenty now and two days ago bought her second car, a low miles Subaru forester. I hope its a good second car!

 

[teflon6string]

I print one of these for every vehicle I consider. After I look at a few, the details sort of blur and run together. More than a couple prospective sellers saw me going over the list and dutifully volunteered glitches before I got to them. Ain't psychology grand?

Used Car/Truck Checklist

Year___ Model ______ Color______ Miles _______ Eng Size ____ Trans ___ AC ___ Asking Price ______
Seller ______________ Contact ( ) - Address _________________________

Brakes/Tires/Alignment/Suspension:
Tires - Uneven wear
Parking Brake
Brake Noise
Pulling
Vibration/Pulsing during braking and just cruising
Suspension Noises

Engine/Trans:
Check engine light (Does it work? Is it on?)
Battery Terminals
Smoke/Odor
Look under for leaks
Oil condition
Coolant condition
Engine Sounds
Cold Start

Exterior:
Windshield
Dents/Scratches
Doors, hood, trunk open/close properly
Headlights, markers, signals, emergency flashers, lenses
Rust

Interior/Instruments:
Dashboard lights/gauges (Check Engine Light)
Windows up/down
Door locks (inside/out)
Wipers/washer
AC, heat
Stereo
Alarm
Odors
Upholstery

Various:
Clear title - And Available?
Extra keys/remote
Sunroof function - leak
Water damage
Service Records
Visible Repairs
Spare condition/inflation
Jack

 

[ilikegunspdx]

I print one of these for every vehicle I look at. After I look at a few, the details sort of blur and run together. Some prospective sellers have seen me going over the list and then dutifully volunteered some glitches before I got to them. Ain't psychology grand?

Used Car/Truck Checklist

Year___ Model ______ Color______ Miles _______ Eng Size ____ Trans ___ AC ___ Asking Price ______
Seller ______________ Contact ( ) - Address _________________________

Brakes/Tires/Alignment/Suspension:
Tires - Uneven wear
Parking Brake
Brake Noise
Pulling
Vibration/Pulsing during braking and just cruising
Suspension Noises

Engine/Trans:
Check engine light (Does it work? Is it on?)
Battery Terminals
Smoke/Odor
Look under for leaks
Oil condition
Coolant condition
Engine Sounds
Cold Start

Exterior:
Windshield
Dents/Scratches
Doors, hood, trunk open/close properly
Headlights, markers, signals, emergency flashers, lenses
Rust

Interior/Instruments:
Dashboard lights/gauges (Check Engine Light)
Windows up/down
Door locks (inside/out)
Wipers/washer
AC, heat
Stereo
Alarm
Odors
Upholstery

Various:
Clear title - And Available?
Extra keys/remote
Sunroof function - leak
Water damage
Service Records
Visible Repairs
Spare condition/inflation
Jack

Damn that's a long list. I've fortunately/unfortunately (ha ha) had over 500 cars and a test drive will tell you a lot. You can pick up on most anything wrong unless it is purposely well hidden (Fe they added "no smoke" goop in the oil). One thing I would recommend to everyone is check the oil and coolant before you drive the car and then check oil after you drive it. Milky oil/oil in coolant is hard to mask and of course indicates a minimum of head gasket problem or max of cracked block/head etc. Having mechanic test drive or simple pre purchase inspection can save a lot of time and $. Anything weird an experienced mechanic will see, hear, or feel right away and is likely an indication of a problem (which can be big or small problem). Fe tranny shifts odd/hard when pulling steep hill, runs a little hot at times, vibration at idle, slight pull or vibration in steering wheel when braking. Clunking cv joints when making tight slow turns for example.

Also a quick check underneath with a flashlight can sometimes reveals leaks or twisted parts that may or may not be a real concern. Also it pays to do a quick Google search on whatever specific car it it "2006 Honda Accord problems" Fe. Usually cars have the same weak spot that is reported over and over. Then you can see was that weak spot already addressed, or is it a problem now, or plan for it to be a potential problem in the future (Fe Subaru head gaskets).

Also I would recommend buying from original owner if possible (seems to be rare nowadays) and get one with good maintenance history. Personally I will pay up to 30% more for a well maintained car in excellent condition compared to the cheapest one available of the same model. My Tundra has 366k miles and looks/drives/feels like it has about 30k. Everything is as tight as a drum. It was flawlessly maintained at the dealer and never abused.