Pulled Primers.

[arakboss]

Anybody here have experience with recovered primers as sold by GI Brass?

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[HighlandLofts]

I have decapped fully reloaded ammo I bought for components. I kept the bullets & primers, wet tumbled the brass, resized it insert the primer, refill with fresh powder (I toss the old powder) and reseat the bullet.
Never had a misfire or have a primer go off pushing it out of a case.

 

[P7M13]

I have decapped fully reloaded ammo I bought for components. I kept the bullets & primers, wet tumbled the brass, resized it insert the primer, refill with fresh powder (I toss the old powder) and reseat the bullet.
Never had a misfire or have a primer go off pushing it out of a case.

Same

 

[arakboss]

Gi brass wants $350 per 5000 for pull down small rifle primers and $450 per 5000 for srm pull down primers. I am thinking I should pass and spend my money the powder only.

 

[arakboss]

GI Brass will not ship primers and powder in same package. That means two hazmat fees would be charged. $20 for powder and $35 for primers. Brownells has done this for me recently with an over pack arrangement. GI Brass said to expect 98% success rate for primers. I am going to stick with ordering the powder only.

 

[41mag]

any links to video on pulling live primers? Successfully I mean.

 

[RVTECH]

Same

Ditto on the 'same' as well.

 

[DizzyJ]

I have also deprimed live primers and reused them successfully.

SLOWLY deprime and wear safety glasses!
Oh, and hearing protection too!

 

[P7M13]

any links to video on pulling live primers? Successfully I mean.

Video of me pulling ~120 284 Winchester primers last night. Notice the straggler kernels of powder from dumping the cases.

New video by Dicker Mann

photos.app.goo.gl

The end result, going into 300 Savage plinking loads. Also note the deposits around some of the primer cups in the 2nd photo. Corrosion?

 

[DizzyJ]

Video of me pulling ~120 284 Winchester primers last night. Notice the straggler kernels of powder from dumping the cases.

New video by Dicker Mann

photos.app.goo.gl

The end result, going into 300 Savage plinking loads. Also note the deposits around some of the primer cups in the 2nd photo. Corrosion?
View attachment 1155863
View attachment 1155864

Different primer manufacturers?

 

[P7M13]

Different primer manufacturers?

Dunno. May be different age of manufacture. Some of these cases are from the 70's through early 2K (I think - Winchester boxes in green, yellow and white). There's a thread over on LRH about the red primers, but I don't know if anyone claimed to recognize them.
The case heads are from three different headstamps, Super-X, Super Speed and WW Super.

 

[DizzyJ]

Dunno. May be different age of manufacture. Some of these cases are from the 70's through early 2K (I think - Winchester boxes in green, yellow and white). There's a thread over on LRH about the red primers, but I don't know if anyone claimed to recognize them.
The case heads are from three different headstamps, Super-X, Super Speed and WW Super.

I have seen different colors from the same manufacturer over time and also regular vs match vs magnum, so that would make sense as well.

 

[kmk1012]

I'd think the pulled primers would go in loose. If it were me, I'd smack them with a hammer to increase the size a little, not really. On a serious note, I'd never even considered reusing a pulled primer. Too many potential downsides compared to the $$$ savings. Although, if you're out of primers and this is all that's out there, why not?

 

[DizzyJ]

I'd think the pulled primers would go in loose. If it were me, I'd smack them with a hammer to increase the size a little, not really. On a serious note, I'd never even considered reusing a pulled primer. Too many potential downsides compared to the $$$ savings. Although, if you're out of primers and this is all that's out there, why not?

I've got a batch of LR benchrest primers pulled from some .308

They'll get used again, and I suspect they'll work just fine, but it will make a good experiment.

 

[P7M13]

I'd think the pulled primers would go in loose. If it were me, I'd smack them with a hammer to increase the size a little, not really. On a serious note, I'd never even considered reusing a pulled primer. Too many potential downsides compared to the $$$ savings. Although, if you're out of primers and this is all that's out there, why not?

I've done it multiple times with MTM boxes when I discovered I had not properly sized 308 and 7mm-08 brass.
Even when primers were $28/K.
I was raised a cheap m-f'er by circumstance and from examples set by a dad who grew up in the Great Depression.

 

[Ben B.]

I routinely push out and reuse primers if I find the brass is cracked, flawed or damaged in some way. I still mark those "re-re-primed" cases for plinkers, but they've all fired with no problem.

I find it most often when case gauging 1K-2K rds of 9mm and finding the occasional cracked necks or rippled brass. Set the culls aside until all the gauging is done, then pull all the bullets, and then push out all the primers and load it all up in fresh brass. Sometimes a rifle case case gets mangled in the seating stage, and I'll do the same.

 

[gmerkt]

Gi brass wants $350 per 5000 for pull down small rifle primers and $450 per 5000 for srm pull down primers. I am thinking I should pass and spend my money the powder only.

That works out to be $70 and $90, respectively, doesn't it? That seems high to me for pull-down product. Plus shipping.

I'd think the pulled primers would go in loose. If it were me, I'd smack them with a hammer to increase the size a little, not really. On a serious note, I'd never even considered reusing a pulled primer. Too many potential downsides compared to the $$$ savings. Although, if you're out of primers and this is all that's out there, why not?

I've decapped live primers fairly routinely. But with mixed results, mostly successful. Never had any ignition problems, but with loose primers. Once seated, the primer takes on the diameter of the pocket it was seated in. Primer pockets do have a bit of variation, enough that primers can fit loose in the second time around brass. I won't use loose primers, I don't want any plasma gas cut bolt / breech faces.

You have to be more aware when using live primers second time around. You won't necessarily be able to just mindlessly prime cases without thinking about how each one feels.

There have been times when I've had to determine if it was stretched primer pockets or primers swaged too small. But I don't typically use brass beyond its expected life. .30-06 through an M1 Rifle, four or five reloads and I scrap it. Three or four reloads for .223 Rem. My standard, your mileage may vary.

 

[gmerkt]

I just looked at Jeff Barlett's site, it's a moot point now, he's sold out.

I see some of the primers were from .30 Carbine, some were from 5.56mm. I haven't loaded .30 Carbine for decades. BUT: When I was doing so, every once in a while I'd have an issue with high primers, depending on which specific primers and brass I was using. So I'd want to try a certain primer out first before I plunked down payment for 5,000. I don't think the .30 Carbine primers would present that kind of issue if used in 5.56mm / .223 Rem. And so long as they were hot enough.

 

[Caveman Jim]

I have decapped fully reloaded ammo I bought for components. I kept the bullets & primers, wet tumbled the brass, resized it insert the primer, refill with fresh powder (I toss the old powder) and reseat the bullet.
Never had a misfire or have a primer go off pushing it out of a case.

Same here too.

 

[Taylormade]

I have decapped fully reloaded ammo I bought for components. I kept the bullets & primers, wet tumbled the brass, resized it insert the primer, refill with fresh powder (I toss the old powder) and reseat the bullet.
Never had a misfire or have a primer go off pushing it out of a case.

Just curious, but why would you toss the original powder if you knew what caliber load it came in? Im pretty new to reloading and this is an honest question