New Rifle

[Wombat of Doom]

I got a rifle, a falling block lever, that was sold to me as a .38 special. It has NO markings I can find other than serial number. It will chamber a .357 magnum, but I am not going to fire one unless a smith gives it a clear or I find evidence that it was designed for such. (I figure I am not worried about .38 special given a look at the beefy barrel and action.) It looks old and reblued to me as there is some minimal pitting under the bluing, that had the rust removed prior to being reblued. It is truly beautiful but I don't quite know where to start with research on it. It looks like it has a heck of a story behind it. I will add pictures in a bit, and I'd appreciate any info someone could throw my way.

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[USMC-03]

Just an idea, but if it's an old falling block, it might be chambered in .38-55 Winchester. A .357 would fit inside that chamber. Pictures of the rifle and markings will be a huge help.

 

[Goosebrown]

^this. It's really unlikely to be a 38 or 357 and a 357 might be a real problem tgere

 

[No_Regerts]

Just an idea, but if it's an old falling block, it might be chambered in .38-55 Winchester. A .357 would fit inside that chamber. Pictures of the rifle and markings will be a huge help.

38-55 is a real cool round if so.

 

[CLT65]

It would be hard to mistake a 38-55 chamber for a .38 or .357. There are lots of falling block rifles in .38 Special and the like. It's a pretty popular gunsmith project. It sounds like a cool rifle. I'm looking forward to photos.

If you're unsure about caliber and there's no markings, a chamber cast might be in order. It's a fairly easy thing for a gunsmith, or you can do it yourself if you're handy. If you were close I could do it for you.

 

[Wombat of Doom]

Here is a first picture. No visible markings except for a serial number. Any place to look that might be common?

 

[CLT65]

It looks a lot like an old Stevens to me, a 44 1/2 or a Favorite maybe? Probably not a Favorite because I think it was a pretty weak rimfire action. I'm really not an expert, just a guess.

I think at one time it was popular to rebarrel a model 44 1/2 in .38 Special. I think the markings would have been on the original barrel.

 

[Wombat of Doom]

Okay after some rudimentary testing... I think this might be a 38-55. Which means I probably need to do a chamber cast.

 

[Wombat of Doom]

How would one do a chamber casting? Soft wax?

 

[thorborg]

I use a small tomato paste can as a crucible obviously taking it a little slower don't forget the goggles

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Maybe a Stevens 44 or 44 1/2...?

The Stevens model 44 and 44 1/2 came in .38-55
These were made from 1894-1933.

That said your stock and barrel look modified or changed from the original.
The original stock had no cheek piece and the barrels came in 26" for centerfire....as standard*
Also the 44 and 44 1/2 did not come as a take down,...as your rifle appears to be....
Andy
*"Standard" ...with older Stevens is chancey...as they often did as the customer ordered or almost at whim....

 

[Member 34319]

Done it twice just like this video.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

Here is a first picture. No visible markings except for a serial number. Any place to look that might be common?

View attachment 612059

Remove the forestock and look for a stamp on the barrel underneath. Is the firing pin set up for center fire or rimfire? If the rifle is very old it could be a .38 long rimfire. If it's centerfire it's probably a .38-55 or similar caliber.

Your rifle looks to be in amazingly good shape. Is it possibly a reproduction? If so it might be a .38 spc. Take it to a good gunsmith and find out what's safe to shoot in it.

My rolling block started out in life as a .38 long rimfire, but it's now a .357 Mag after much modification.

 

[Wombat of Doom]

As best as I can tell, not a takedown and there is naught but bluing under the fore grip. The firing pin I think is centerfire. Though a fired .38 special brass should say for certain. (Going to dry fire on a brass with a used primer in hopes the dimples don't line up perfectly.)

 

[Andy54Hawken]

What is the screw under the frame...?
That looks to my eye as a Stevens take down screw...Or is it a sling swivel ...?
Andy

 

[Wombat of Doom]

Maybe a Stevens 44 or 44 1/2...?

The Stevens model 44 and 44 1/2 came in .38-55
These were made from 1894-1933.

That said your stock and barrel look modified or changed from the original.
The original stock had no cheek piece and the barrels came in 26" for centerfire....as standard*
Also the 44 and 44 1/2 did not come as a take down,...as your rifle appears to be....
Andy
*"Standard" ...with older Stevens is chancey...as they often did as the customer ordered or almost at whim....

The stock certainly looks changed and I would bet dollars to donuts this is reblued.

 

[Wombat of Doom]

I don't know why this old piece was calling my name. But I am it's most recent caretaker. I want to shoot it in a safe manner. So a chamber cast is in order next.

 

[Wombat of Doom]

What is the screw under the frame...?
That looks to my eye as a Stevens take down screw...Or is it a sling swivel ...?
Andy

there is a swing swivel.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

I don't know why this old piece was calling my name. But I am it's most recent caretaker. I want to shoot it in a safe manner. So a chamber cast is in order next.

You can use this to make a cast of the chamber:

BROWNELLS CERROSAFE® CHAMBER CASTING ALLOY | Brownells

There are various products on the market which can be used to make a cast of a gun chamber. To be certain that the product we are offering you is the best and most practical, we contacted the basic manufacturer. They recommended Cerrosafe because ...

www.brownells.com

Never Wears Out- Use Over And Over
There are various products on the market which can be used to make a cast of a gun chamber. To be certain that the product we are offering you is the best and most practical, we contacted the basic manufacturer. They recommended Cerrosafe because of its unique features. Unlike Woodsmetal which swells upon cooling and cannot be removed from a gun chamber, Cerrosafe shrinks during the first 30 minutes of cooling and then at the end of an hour, is EXACTLY chamber size. At the end of 200 hours it will have expanded approximately .0025". This factor is well known by all toolmakers and they will take it into consideration when making dies or reamers or gauges from your cast - if you will tell them the cast is of Cerrosafe. Cerrosafe melts between 158° - 190° F. It should be melted in a clean, iron ladle. Source of heat should be removed as soon as the alloy is completely melted, at which time it is ready to pour. The solidified casting should be removed from the chamber before, or when, it cools to room temperature. If allowed to remain in the mold over an hour, it will grip the chamber walls and be difficult to remove. Clean the chamber of the rifle thoroughly, then plug the bore immediately ahead of the throat with a small rag - but not so tightly it cannot be driven out. If possible, pour the molten Cerrosafe through a small tube into the bottom of the cast, gradually removing the tube as the chamber fills. If the barrel is cold, warm it to room temperature or above before making the cast. When cooled, remove from chamber, using a rod or dowel from the muzzle end of the gun.

You have become the caretaker of what could be a real treasure, and a really nice shooter. My rolling block with .38 spc in it is like shooting a .22 LR except for the large holes it makes. Very much fun!

 

[Flymph]

Look for markings under the forearm?