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Whats every ones favorite lube and solvent for thr rifles and why? I need to clean some and im out of what I was using that came with my cleaning kit and noticed there way more options then I though so looking for suggestions for whats the best or what to stay away from
 
I use Hoppe's #9 and BoreTech Eliminitor or CU Copper remover for solvents, and Hoppe's Gun Oil. There's a couple of slightly different Hoppe's gun oils, but there doesn't seem to be any difference.
 
Whats every ones favorite lube and solvent for thr rifles and why? I need to clean some and im out of what I was using that came with my cleaning kit and noticed there way more options then I though so looking for suggestions for whats the best or what to stay away from
I use Eezox for everything. It's a synthetic CLP and prevents rust as well as fingerprints that protects bluing. It leaves behind a dry lubricating film. When cleaning let it sit for about 15 min to dissolve powder residue carbon etc then clean with fresh eezox. Being a dry lube it doesn't attract dirt etc which for me is a huge benefit.
 
That's a new solvent, i've not heard of it before.


And on and semi related note, can people stop calling it "Hoppys"?
Hopper's is like FrogLube! I do believe that Frank Hoppe pronounced it "Hoppy", and that is how I've heard company reps say it. I do like the #9 solvent, but usually rinse with denatured alcohol followed by CLP. For general maintenance, I use Breakfree CLP, however, it has doubled in price in the last year or so and is now about $100 a gallon, so I'm using some alternatives. My preferred lube is Slip 2000 EWL 30 for bolts and actions, regular Slip 2000 for extreme cold weather, and sewing machine or #9 oil for triggers and such. For de-greasing it's non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Whatever one chooses for lube, I would not recommend using anything with graphite in it if there's aluminum involved.
 
Hopper's is like FrogLube! I do believe that Frank Hoppe pronounced it "Hoppy", and that is how I've heard company reps say it. I do like the #9 solvent, but usually rinse with denatured alcohol followed by CLP. For general maintenance, I use Breakfree CLP, however, it has doubled in price in the last year or so and is now about $100 a gallon, so I'm using some alternatives. My preferred lube is Slip 2000 EWL 30 for bolts and actions, regular Slip 2000 for extreme cold weather, and sewing machine or #9 oil for triggers and such. For de-greasing it's non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Whatever one chooses for lube, I would not recommend using anything with graphite in it if there's aluminum involved.
If that is true, then i'm sorely disappointed :( The pronunciation of it really irks me, and reminds me of a friend who's last name is Flaming, which, obviously has a correct pronunciation, as it's already a word - however the correct pronunciation would actually require two 'M's and the suspicion is that it was when everyone got to the US off the boat and just orally spoke their name to whatever (semi) illiterate name-taker was on the books that day.

If Hoppe really is supposed to be spoken 'Hoppy' then all i can do is hang my head in disappointment and assume the same story applies :(
(and before anyone gets annoyed at me about that, how do you pronounce M1 Garand? :D ;))

As for the rest, yes - i use the same Slip2000 stuff in the same cases, but also add Slip2000 grease as well :) I don't change it up for triggers as the regular EWL works great there too.

Non chlorinated brake cleaner would be the right choice in brake cleaner, but it's easier and more economic for me to use MPro7 cleaner instead as it's also reusable.
 
And on and semi related note, can people stop calling it "Hoppys"?
Yea, sorry, on their website videos they say Hoppys.

And yet another vote for the stuff, however it it pronounced. ;) I do use a few others like Shooters Choice for stubborn copper issues and it also melts shotgun wad plastic very well. Also find the Lucas Oil spray cleaner has been great. It is not a CLP that leaves a film in my experience.

For lubes like the ALG Go-Juice (Geissele) for handguns and their very thin grease for AR's.
 
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For lubes like the ALG Go-Juice (Geissele) for handguns and their very thin grease for AR's.
Not to get too far off topic, but that's another name that gets shredded. If you spend enough money there, I don't think he cares how you pronounce it (as long as it's not "LaRue"!).

Edit: Wanted to clarify that I was referring to Bill Geissele and his company, Geissele Automatics, and not ALG Defense owned by his wife Amy Lynn Geissele.
 
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Yea, sorry, on their website videos they say Hoppys.

And yet another vote for the stuff, however it it pronounced. ;) I do use a few others like Shooters Choice for stubborn copper issues and it also melts shotgun wad plastic very well. Also find the Lucas Oil spray cleaner has been great. It is not a CLP that leaves a film in my experience.

For lubes like the ALG Go-Juice (Geissele) for handguns and their very thin grease for AR's.
Hmmmmm.............WillametteWill.
I grew up about a half mile from the Willa metty River.
Spent a lot of time on the old Willa metty.
Best,
Gary
 
Ed's Red and Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic.

Motor oils: Generally good boundary lubrication (particularly the Havoline formulations), but very poor corrosion resistance and poor resistance to open-air oxidation. The biggest problem is that their pour-point additives often contain benzene compounds, which aren't a good thing to have next to your skin on a regular basis! I recommend staying away from motor oils; if you must use something from the auto parts store, ATF performs better for firearms use on every count, even if it is a tad more expensive. (ATF is still 1/10 to 1/100th the cost of a specialty "gun oil.")
 

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