Hornady Lock-N-Load (single stage)

[ch139]

Hello gents,

Looking for input from your experience with Hornady's Lock-N-Load system.

I have an ole Dillon 550 I use for things like 45ACP, 38 Spl, etc. Have always loaded 38-40 on a single stage (not progressive) just because the brass is so thin and fragile. For the single stage I've just always used my RCBS Rock Chucker.

My conundrum is that with the RCBS when I swap dies I'm "loosing" my crimp "placement." I hate fooling around with it and "hoping" I got it back to the same place as before (and you know you never do).

Options seem to be setting up a separate tool head for the Dillon with just a crimp die so it stays put in a Dillon tool head, or something like the Lock-N-Load where the die would stay set in a Hornady die bushing.

Thoughts?

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[JDubDub]

Does your RCBS use standard bushings to hold your dies? Rather than buying a whole new press, you can buy the Lock-n-load bushings and save some $. The bushings work well enough that I use them to reload my .308 "precision " loads.

 

[ch139]

I did not know that was an option. I'll be checking that out. Thanks for the heads-up!

 

[arrowshooter]

My conundrum is that with the RCBS when I swap dies I'm "loosing" my crimp "placement." I hate fooling around with it and "hoping" I got it back to the same place as before (and you know you never do).

If your seating die has a "locking" lock ring, once you have it locked into place the setting should not change. What dies are you using? If you are using something like Lee dies that rely on an o-ring to lock the die in place, your issue is that you could be inadvertently changing the setting when you are taking the die on and off.

I may venture to guess that you are running into a case overall length issue.

The way around this whole issue is to use a separate crimp die such as the Lee FCD. They're like $15.

As for setting up your Rock Chucker with the L-N-L system, you will replace the factory die holder (the big nut on the top of the press) with the L-N-L die holder. It comes in the Hornady L-N-L Conversion kit which also includes one or two bushings.

 

[aasbra]

What dies are you using? Are you using a seater die that also does the crimp, in one stage, or do you have a separate crimp die? What lock rings on the dies?

I load most rifle rounds on a Forster co-ax press, and seat with a separate die/separate step, before using a separate crimp die. It would seem if your brass is uniform length, your crimp die had a lock ring that has a set screw or clamping feature so it stayed in adjustment on the die body, and you crimped separately, would this not produce a consistent crimp on your rock chucker?

While I haven't used the lock and load bushings, I've viewed the main selling point is that it is quick to change dies, the Forster is also real quick, and easy to swap dies.

 

[P7M13]

The set screw locking rings suck. Lee locking rings suck beyond compare - mine all get tossed into the back of a junk drawer.
I have replaced all my locking rings with Forster locking rings - split rings, that once they are tightened, don't move at all. Hornady locking rings will work, but they're useless in a Forster Co-Ax, so I avoid them.
The problem with setting these is in a pistol crimp die, the crimp is built into the grind internal to the die.
Here's how I set it up, whether for my Forster Co-Ax, Lee Classic or Rock Chucker.

• You'll need a few rounds that are ready for seating / crimp to do this.
• Always use the exact same shell holder.
• Locking ring thread pitch is 14 TPI, and seating stems are commonly 28 TPI. This means, if you adjust your die depth by 10° of a turn on the locking ring, you'll need to adjust your seating stem by 20°, turning both in the same direction.

1. I set up the die without a locking ring to get the crimp depth perfect.
2. Spin on a locking ring so it's snug against the top of the press. Use channel locks to tighten the ring onto the top of the press (no need to reef on it).
3. At the 180° point from the ring split, mark the locking ring position on the die - with a fine point sharpie.
4. Mark the ring and die position on the top of the press with another fine point sharpie mark.
5. Back the assembly out a few turns - no need to remove it.
6. Align the locking ring with the first mark and tighten the ring so it will not move (something like 40 in-lbs of torque).
7. Tighten it all back down, and use the channel locks with the same force applied to tighten the assembly onto the press head.
8. The marks should all line up or be still touching, but just slightly misaligned.
9. Seat and crimp a round. See how you did.
   1. If your crimp starts to happen before you seat the bullet, you're too deep. Back the assembly out a touch, loosen the ring and advance it on the threads about 10° clockwise (looking from the top of the die) to shorten the crimp depth (higher up the case neck). Adjust your COAL by advancing the seating stem. Repeat steps 6-9.1 until perfect.
   2. If your crimp is too late or not deep enough: Back the assembly out a touch, loosen the ring and back it out on the threads about 10° counter-clockwise (looking from the top of the die). Adjust your COAL by backing out the seating stem. Repeat steps 6-9 & 9.2 until perfect.

 

[Local Loader]

Hello gents,

Looking for input from your experience with Hornady's Lock-N-Load system.

I have an ole Dillon 550 I use for things like 45ACP, 38 Spl, etc. Have always loaded 38-40 on a single stage (not progressive) just because the brass is so thin and fragile. For the single stage I've just always used my RCBS Rock Chucker.

My conundrum is that with the RCBS when I swap dies I'm "loosing" my crimp "placement." I hate fooling around with it and "hoping" I got it back to the same place as before (and you know you never do).

Options seem to be setting up a separate tool head for the Dillon with just a crimp die so it stays put in a Dillon tool head, or something like the Lock-N-Load where the die would stay set in a Hornady die bushing.

Thoughts?

The L-N-L conversation kit is good for helping fix that and you can get it in a multi-pack that comes with upto 6 die bushings. Also, I'd get rid of the RSBS lock rings (I hate them, they never hold right) and replace them with the Hornady lock rings, I've had zero issues using those and you don't risk thread damage from a set screw. The lock rings are cheaper to get and you could try that first before buying the bushings and see if that fixes things, cause I bet the lock rings are the likely issue. At least that's the issue I had, which is why I switched to only the Hornady lock rings.

 

[dangerranger60]

I'm another that tosses the Lee O ring. I have use the set screw type rings but I drop a piece of lead shot between the screw and the die's threads.
But with a good lock ring I have dies that have not been readjusted in 30 years! DR

 

[Poole]

Lock-N-Load bushings do exactly what you're after, set it once and forget it but honestly a spare Dillon toolhead with your crimp die parked is the cleaner solution if you're already running a 550. Less fiddling, less "did I get it right this time" nonsense and you'll quit chasing that perfect crimp every session.