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Funny that you mention boiling......I was actually thinking about getting an Ultrasonic Cleaner to see if that would work if direct heat didn't work. I am not sure if anyone here has tried that or not.
 
Having a difficult time getting my MK-9K end caps off. I have tried WD and Kroil with no success. Anyone out there used a torch or a heat gun? Thanks in advance.
Does it have wrench flats on both ends? Nice to have wrench flats on every part to aid in removal. If no wrench flats that sucks. Probably have to use strap wrench(s). I would soak overnight in pb blaster. After removed, use boron nitride lube which will help in future. Chemically inert and stable up to 2200 degrees F.

BN, or combo of BN + PTFE, is what I use on all firearm components that need lube. My method is clean everything thoroughly with 99% alcohol. This only has to be done the first time cleaning. This removes barriers for lube/protectant to adsorb to metal. Then let sit coated with Eezox CLP (synthetic ester based oils + ptfe) for 10-15 min. Then clean with Eezox and remove any liquid Eezox. This leaves a slippery dry film that will protect extremely well from rust and resist fingerprints. Note that ballistol (an organic ester oil) acts similarly to Eezox. Then apply ceratec (BN in a carrier oil) to shiny parts (ie where lube is required) or places such as slide contact points. This adds an additional friction modifier that is extremely chemical and heat resistant. Working the action a lot with the ceratec applied will aid in adsorption and creates a slippery boundary layer of lubrication. After this initial treatment future cleanings are very fast and simple. I coat all suppressor related threads in BN lube.
 
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Does it have wrench flats on both ends? Nice to have wrench flats on every part to aid in removal. I would soak overnight in on blaster. After removed use boron nitride lube which will help in future. Chemically inert and stable up to 2200 degrees F.
No, not at all.....round on both ends. It's frustrating to not be able to get the ends off. I actually have two of them and the other is effortless to unscrew and clean. You might be able to get a strap wrench on an either side, but the outer cap width is super narrow. I attached a pic of a stock Gemtech MK-9K for reference so you can see what I am dealing with. Thank you for your advise as well. I definitely made a mistake by not lubing the ends after cleaning it.

GT88926-2.jpg
 
Does it have wrench flats on both ends? Nice to have wrench flats on every part to aid in removal. If no wrench flats that sucks. Probably have to use strap wrench(s).
No flats does make it more difficult but there are no flats on most barrels.

I have machined aluminum to fit the OD perfectly then made a saw cut so it can be clamped tight in a vise, works every time.

If you do not have a lathe but it is a common diameter you can buy split set collars that will do the same thing.


They work so good I have even used steel ones for building barrel wrenches.

80C30B27-7455-4CCB-9209-74AECBBE64F5.jpeg 977B7AA1-7819-4B12-B100-917496AD1130.jpeg
 
No, not at all.....round on both ends. It's frustrating to not be able to get the ends off. I actually have two of them and the other is effortless to unscrew and clean. You might be able to get a strap wrench on an either side, but the outer cap width is super narrow. I attached a pic of a stock Gemtech MK-9K for reference so you can see what I am dealing with. Thank you for your advise as well. I definitely made a mistake by not lubing the ends after cleaning it.

View attachment 2068422
Darn. Can't understand what manufacturers are thinking when they do things like this. It's obvious they are making things extra hard on their customers for no reason. Probably vice on that narrow end cap with protection for the metal such as vice jaws. Then strap wrench. That's all I can think of. They certainly didn't make your life easier.
 
No flats does make it more difficult but there are no flats on most barrels.

I have machined aluminum to fit the OD perfectly then made a saw cut so it can be clamped tight in a vise, works every time.

If you do not have a lathe but it is a common diameter you can buy split set collars that will do the same thing.


They work so good I have even used steel ones for building barrel wrenches.

View attachment 2068424 View attachment 2068425
Thats a great solution! Barrels might not have wrench flats but can makers can put wrench flats on every part. Makes life easy. Huxwrx cans for example put wrench flats on every part/component.

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Yeah, every operation costs money and some like smooth, not to mention as soon as they put flats on it for disassembly someone will use them to tighten it even tighter than hand tight, making it even harder to get off. That said, anyone with a mill should be able to machine flats for you.

I suppose you could modify the end cap. I made this tensioned barrel and just drilled two holes a known distance apart. Then drilled two more holes the same distance apart in another piece of aluminum and pressed dowels into it, that is the tool I use with the torque wrench to tighten it but that is more work than flats or even a hex.

555878E3-6EE6-4AF8-A3AB-BB5E4811E323.jpeg
 
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if you can machine a split ring, that would be optimal, if you can do that kind of work then you could maybe make a new cap with wrench flats. I can't do that kind of work.

I've been known to tape off the edge of the tube to mark the line, put paper in the vise jaws, clamp the cap in the vise, grip the tube and turn the can loose. Most of the work is in lining up the cap edge and getting the cap centered. Once the cap is secured, didn't take much effort to turn the tube.
 
I would measure to be sure but specs I found online indicated a 2" OD, get one of these and keep it with your cleaning stuff.

That's good info!
 

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