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Dang... I'd leave as is. Thats just me though...Whats the best/durable method to get the slide darker from stainless to blackish or something like that? SW40V
I plan on dying the frame with Rit Dye,but want to know what you guys have found to work.. read Caswell's stuff doesnt always work on the specific SW Sigma stainless steel?
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Birchwood Casey cold blue might touch it. A lot of people have it on hand so it wouldn't hurt to try if you have some.Whats the best/durable method to get the slide darker from stainless to blackish or something like that? SW40V
I plan on dying the frame with Rit Dye,but want to know what you guys have found to work.. read Caswell's stuff doesnt always work on the specific SW Sigma stainless steel?
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i'll take more pics of it against Woodland and other camos and see which ones its closest to.
One thing about Rit-dye is you can always re-due it. Maybe tape spots so they won't absorb the new color and do multiple sessions to get camo? I know with knife scale they do something similar but usually 3 colors to make a color gradient. Might work with camo if you had good tape that won't bleed and not soak too long? Just guessing have never tried it. Could experiment with the concept on other plastic I suppose to see if it works.Still considering things. I do want to change the sights out but I ain't sure what size they used for the front sight blade?
Anyways. I went and Rit-Dyed the frame, without disassembling it. Horrifying, I know!![]()
water, 1 cup of distilled white vinegar, whole bottle of Rit Dye Dark Green, in stainless steel pan, at low heat for 15, 20 minutes.
Note, metal parts, some polymers, and black parts will not get dyed. There is apparently a small rounded hexagon shaped insert behind the trigger that did not dye at all. Not sure what it was. No visible mold seams around it, just the centerline mold seams.
Came out looking pretty good, if decidely not quite camo greeni'll take more pics of it against Woodland and other camos and see which ones its closest to.
I do think darkening the stainless slide would help a lot.. or getting it coated somehow.
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Can go darker, can add color to change tints, but can't go lighter apparently. Last resort is their "carbon black" stuffOne thing about Rit-dye is you can always re-due it. Maybe tape spots so they won't absorb the new color and do multiple sessions to get camo? I know with knife scale they do something similar but usually 3 colors to make a color gradient. Might work with camo if you had good tape that won't bleed and not soak too long? Just guessing have never tried it. Could experiment with the concept on other plastic I suppose to see if it works.
I have a knife coming today with the scales in white. They made white to allow people to easily dye it.
Correctamundo on going darker. A did one knife in one color and didn't like it then did dark blue second time and no trace of the first color.Can go darker, can add color to change tints, but can't go lighter apparently. Last resort is their "carbon black" stuff
FYI I noticed this color mixing chart/formulas for Rit dye synthetic when searching for colors for knife scales.Well it started out as the light grey seen in beginning of thread.
I see Rit says I can use liquid gel glue to make masking resist agent, but not sure how hot water + white vinegar will influence it on the frame.
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In shade, looks not bad against Woodland 500D
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In the sun, BAM its like a light Hunter Green?
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also in Sun, but against 1000D ERDL scaled commercial "woodland" thats closer to Crayola colors.
Definitely interesting results nonetheless.
That does seem to assume white t shirt or some such. As my link to the Truth About Guns' dying experiment shows, it may not be consistent and different color polymers may take dyes differently or result in different colors.FYI I noticed this color mixing chart/formulas for Rit dye synthetic when searching for colors for knife scales.